Change your rear diff oil if you haven't yet and clean those lockers!

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thkbaron

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did my rear end tonight. I ended up tossing 3 quarts in the rear end. I've heard of some people going up to four so I'll check it again tomorrow quick while I do the front side. I noticed the bolts had loctite on them and didn't see anything in the beginning about putting some back on. should i back them out one by one and do so or will the 25 be ok with the loctite that was on?
 

LeesEvoX

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did my rear end tonight. I ended up tossing 3 quarts in the rear end. I've heard of some people going up to four so I'll check it again tomorrow quick while I do the front side. I noticed the bolts had loctite on them and didn't see anything in the beginning about putting some back on. should i back them out one by one and do so or will the 25 be ok with the loctite that was on?
I didnt put loctite on the bolts when reinstalling. Everything is fine with my truck.

I also just installed a carli front diff guard. So had to take half of the front bolts out again.

All good still

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Gamedog

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Serviced both the front and rear differentials last week with Redline 75-90 I linked previously.

Rear was obviously a lot dirtier than the front, but other than that no major concerns.

Cleaned off all magnets and I did apply loctite to all bolts just to be safe. Gaskets were super solid and put a thin layer of Vaseline on them for ***** and gigs.

Cycled the lockers after 100 or so miles and they engaged super quick.

Glad I did this, thanks all for the input!
 

liljohn30

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I have a question I have 28K on my power wagon I bought it used from a dealer certified preowned shouldn’t they do this under warranty I still have the original warranty plus I got an extended warranty
 
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Maligator

Maligator

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I have a question I have 28K on my power wagon I bought it used from a dealer certified preowned shouldn’t they do this under warranty I still have the original warranty plus I got an extended warranty
I'm going to go with a most likely No and even if they did I'm sure they probably didn't clean the magnet off for your locker. I could ve wrong but I think the maintenance interval for fluid changes in the diff is 40k, I did mine about where you're at mileage wise and my rear was filthy I'm glad I did it probably going to do it again at 50k because I'm pretty ****.

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G. Mcpherson

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did my rear end tonight. I ended up tossing 3 quarts in the rear end. I've heard of some people going up to four so I'll check it again tomorrow quick while I do the front side. I noticed the bolts had loctite on them and didn't see anything in the beginning about putting some back on. should i back them out one by one and do so or will the 25 be ok with the loctite that was on?
3.8 qts. Rear.
 

smurfs_of_war

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Planned on doing both diffs next week and cleaning the magnets, but now I am confused. I am reading here that the power wagons have a helical LS which doesn't require friction additives, but the manual says I do need them. So which is it? Did the 2020 PW go to a clutch style limited slip?

I realize it won't hurt to add it if I don't need it, but I don't want to spend money I don't have to [emoji16]

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LeesEvoX

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Planned on doing both diffs next week and cleaning the magnets, but now I am confused. I am reading here that the power wagons have a helical LS which doesn't require friction additives, but the manual says I do need them. So which is it? Did the 2020 PW go to a clutch style limited slip?

I realize it won't hurt to add it if I don't need it, but I don't want to spend money I don't have to [emoji16]

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As said above. Just use amsoil. I did, and no problems

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HEMIMANN

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Not sure what they did for Gen V 2500 trucks. Gen IV 2500 trucks (up to 2019) have only AAM 11.5" ring gear and Trac-Rite Torsen all gear "anti-spin" rear axels. Capacity for those is 4.0 qts. avg.

They keep changing around suppliers and designs. I can't keep it all straight. I just know this is what I have.

https://www.dieselhub.com/axle/aam-11.5.html
 

florida1

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I just changed the rear fluid out on my 2019 and I'm just shy of 12k miles. As others have seen, I did have some very light shavings. I did install a new gasket, but the original looked great. Torqued everything to 25 and have no leaks.
 

Gamedog

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Serviced both the front and rear differentials last week with Redline 75-90 I linked previously.

Rear was obviously a lot dirtier than the front, but other than that no major concerns.

Cleaned off all magnets and I did apply loctite to all bolts just to be safe. Gaskets were super solid and put a thin layer of Vaseline on them for ***** and gigs.

Cycled the lockers after 100 or so miles and they engaged super quick.

Glad I did this, thanks all for the input!


Well, my "Axle Unlock" light started blinking again this morning despite the above post. Was 20 degrees and I remember it tends to start blinking when it's below freezing out. Didn't happen yesterday though, and it was about the same temp.

Pretty damn annoying to be honest. I don't want to take it to the dealer as they originally said they could not replicate it the first time I took it in... Very likely it won't be blinking when I take it to them the next time, which would be a waste of my time.
 

Big Bad Bud

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I did rear diff at 10k miles. It had an unacceptable amount of metal in there. Small shavings and a couple slivers (3/8" and 3/4"). Tells me that FCA just slaps it together ZFG!!
 

Breaker Alex

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Well, my "Axle Unlock" light started blinking again this morning despite the above post. Was 20 degrees and I remember it tends to start blinking when it's below freezing out. Didn't happen yesterday though, and it was about the same temp.

Pretty damn annoying to be honest. I don't want to take it to the dealer as they originally said they could not replicate it the first time I took it in... Very likely it won't be blinking when I take it to them the next time, which would be a waste of my time.

Mine started flashing more and more around 4000 miles after the oil change.

Now it's everyday. Maybe the cold weather doesn't help, good point mate.

I'll reporte the issue to the dealer just to be on the safe side, if it's worth something.

FB_IMG_1600963683441.jpg
 

retired

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this is an old post but figured I would bump it up. It is kind of funny read the owner's manual fill levels lol. why don't they just say to the bottom of the hole? 1/4 below +-1/4 lol.
To check the axle fluid, park the vehicle on a level surface. Take a piece of wire (or zip tie) and make a 90 degree bend two inches from the end of the wire. Insert the wire into the fill plug hole and use it like a dipstick. Remove the wire and measure from the 90 degree bend to the oil level.
For the 2500 (Non-Power Wagon) axles, the fluid level should be 4/5 in ± 1/4 in (20.3 mm ±
6.4 mm) below the fill hole for the rear axle and it shouldbe1/4in±1/4in(6.4mm±6.4mm) below the fill hole on the front axle.
For the 2500 Power Wagon and all 3500 model axles, the fluid level should be 1/4 in ± 1/4 in (6.4 mm ± 6.4 mm) below the fill hole on the 9.25 in front, 11.5 in rear axle, and 12.0 in rear axle.
 

Scybron

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just changed rear diff oil to Amsoil on my 22 PW at 800 miles. When I removed fill plug oil was weeping out so manufacture must went +1/4" from the fill line, I filled till it started to weep then let it completly stop weeping before I replaced fill plug. It took around 3.8 qrts to get to the fill hole.

The used oil had a very silvery metallic color, the fill plug has a magnet that was covered in a thick silver metallic paste. The locker magnet had a small amount of same paste, Only saw a few flecks of metal flakes, nothing big.

Only thing I would say, is now I wonder if the wearing in is complete at 800 miles. Probably could of waited till at least 1500 miles before I changed it. Either way I was very suprised how contaminated the oil was.

Rear locker, immediately falls in now after the switch to Amsoil.

Torqued to 25lbs with original gasket, no leaks.
 

thkbaron

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yeah I might way till 2000 or 3000 miles. I'll see. Getting the first oil change done in a week. Truck will be around 1500 give or take.
 
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