Check engine light....need advice.

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shottel

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2014 Ram 1500 5.7, 148K miles. For the last year I have been fighting a check engine light. Truck starts/runs fine, typical mileage. Initially was P0153 then P2098 started coming with it, now they basically come as a pair. Local shop changed passenger front O2 sensor with a Mopar part the local parts supplier sold them. Didn't solve. Repaired broken manifold studs/exhaust leak on startup on passenger side. Didn't solve. Took to local NW Dodge in Houston, who, for $209, scanned and then updated PCM in hopes to solve it. Didn't solve, CEL popped on hour after i picked it up after two start cycles. I guess i'm taking it back in to Dodge and let them mess with it/open Star Case but wanted to get input from some of the smart folks on this forum. What should i do next? Thanks for your thoughts.
 

Bigskyroadglide

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What causes the P0153 code?​

  • Intake air leaks
  • Gas leaks in the exhaust, located near the oxygen sensor
  • Broken, bare or shorted wires leading to the oxygen sensor
  • A faulty oxygen sensor
What are the Possible Causes of the P2098 Code?

Several issues can trigger the lean readings in the bank 2 oxygen sensor 2 unit. The PCM may log a P2098 code in response to:

A leak in the exhaust system (natural exhaust pulses can draw outside O2 in through an exhaust system leak upstream of an O2 sensor, which will drive the sensor signal to indicate a false lean condition.
Bad or failing upstream oxygen sensor
A problem in the post-catalytic oxygen sensor circuit (e.g., damaged wires or poor connections),
Lean running condition (vacuum leak MAP or MAF sensor malfunction)
An issue with the PCM, such as software in need of an update


Both of these codes are on bank 2. Both are essentially 02 sensor codes, saying something is wrong with air/fuel.

You've updated pcm = no joy
You've replaced an 02 sensor, hopefully it is oem mopar
You've repaired broken exhaust manifold bolts

Have you checked for a leaky injector, a Crack in the exhaust system somewhere other than the exhaust manifold and broken bolts or a leaking intake manifold or have you seen if you have a broken or compromised wire?
 
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shottel

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thanks Bigsky for the response. Truck is currently back in NW Dodge and they don't know but they are going to install another passenger front O2 to see what happens. I'm fairly sure local shop installed a mopar part but who knows if right PN so we will see if that actual dealer part yields results.. Have not checked for leaky injector. Exhaust looks good, there aren't any noises for sure and no sign of even a minor leak. The intake hasn't been touched since new but i saw on another thread that there were imbalance DTCs that were caused by loose bolts on intake and throttle body so that may be the next stop.
 

Sherman Bird

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2014 Ram 1500 5.7, 148K miles. For the last year I have been fighting a check engine light. Truck starts/runs fine, typical mileage. Initially was P0153 then P2098 started coming with it, now they basically come as a pair. Local shop changed passenger front O2 sensor with a Mopar part the local parts supplier sold them. Didn't solve. Repaired broken manifold studs/exhaust leak on startup on passenger side. Didn't solve. Took to local NW Dodge in Houston, who, for $209, scanned and then updated PCM in hopes to solve it. Didn't solve, CEL popped on hour after i picked it up after two start cycles. I guess i'm taking it back in to Dodge and let them mess with it/open Star Case but wanted to get input from some of the smart folks on this forum. What should i do next? Thanks for your thoughts.
Two engine cycles tell me that your primary likely problem is a "B" class DTC. This is a DTC which requires 2 consecutive drive events to set the parameters in order to illuminate the CEL. An example on some vehicles is a VVT issue that only turns on the light in the event of 2 consecutive failures.

Allopathic repairs seem to be the norm today. For $209.00 dollars, you should have received at least preliminary diagnosis to the problem... i.e. a place to begin with more in-depth diagnostics to reach an accurate repair.

Finding the root cause is the goal, however, that requires a very good technician. The dealer might not have anyone that skilled. Most do not/ can't find the more enigmatic of problems. Their primary work is toward newer low mileage vehicles to repair more patternistic issues.

I recently had a guy referred to me who brought his 2008 4-Runner from Austin to my shop here in Houston (200 mile journey). He fought a DTC for lean system on one bank for nearly 2 years. The dealership with some guru, 28-year master nomenclature couldn't figure it out, and 4 other shops couldn't either. I got it in, did very detailed diagnostics, followed the data, and fixed it. I'm no genius; I merely have diagnostic strategies in place which get me to the answers.... sometimes not so quickly, but I do find them.

You should have seen the list of parts the other people replaced, but couldn't effect a repair. The dealer "guru" installed a VERY expensive "Y" pipe/ catalytic converters assembly, to give one example.... and it didn't come close to fixing the problem. The final solution was SO simple, I still can't wrap my head around such lack of diagnostic training out there in Auto Repair land!
 
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shottel

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Update: Wow! I checked torques on throttle body and intake Saturday. Spec is 50 in/lb on throttle body and they barely turned, so tight. Intake was a different situation. 108 in/lb was spec in manual. All 10 bolts turned 2 to 3 revolutions to get to 108 so way loose. Intake has never been touched before and i doubt they are backing out. I marked the front two and will watch over time. i'm guessing the orings compress/harden over time/temp? So i'm about 15 starts in since Saturday and don't even have a pending code so i'm thinking this knocked out my issue. I guess i've been sucking unfiltered air a bit by the orings for a year. i will report back in a few weeks current status. Needless to say, truck is not back at the dealer as they were going to start shotgunning parts starting with O2 sensors even though they claimed their voltages were within spec. Too bad they couldn't figure this out, i would think a TSB should be out on this issue.

thanks for the other comments as well. Burla, my dad used electrical tape to cover his CEL and it drove me nuts! No dice, must be fixed.
 

Wild one

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Update: Wow! I checked torques on throttle body and intake Saturday. Spec is 50 in/lb on throttle body and they barely turned, so tight. Intake was a different situation. 108 in/lb was spec in manual. All 10 bolts turned 2 to 3 revolutions to get to 108 so way loose. Intake has never been touched before and i doubt they are backing out. I marked the front two and will watch over time. i'm guessing the orings compress/harden over time/temp? So i'm about 15 starts in since Saturday and don't even have a pending code so i'm thinking this knocked out my issue. I guess i've been sucking unfiltered air a bit by the orings for a year. i will report back in a few weeks current status. Needless to say, truck is not back at the dealer as they were going to start shotgunning parts starting with O2 sensors even though they claimed their voltages were within spec. Too bad they couldn't figure this out, i would think a TSB should be out on this issue.

thanks for the other comments as well. Burla, my dad used electrical tape to cover his CEL and it drove me nuts! No dice, must be fixed.
 

EdGs

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Looks like you found it. I know that is a big relief.

I saw the thread that Rick posted on this, but haven't checked my '15 yet, but no codes, just no time.
 

Wild one

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Looks like you found it. I know that is a big relief.

I saw the thread that Rick posted on this, but haven't checked my '15 yet, but no codes, just no time.
A 5/16" or 8mm nut driver works for checking them Ed,i just give them a good twist by hand,and you shouldn't be to far off the proper torque.It'll get you by till you do have time to check them with a torque wrench if you want to be all proper about it,lol
 

turkeybird56

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A 5/16" or 8mm nut driver works for checking them Ed,i just give them a good twist by hand,and you shouldn't be to far off the proper torque.It'll get you by till you do have time to check them with a torque wrench if you want to be all proper about it,lol
My 2019 kept throwing a CEL for O2 sensor. NE way to dealer, and they replaced the affected sensor? I left dealer, made left turn, drove to Burger King 1/4 mile away and wala, another code. Back to Dealer, and they checked and replaced second O2 sensor. Still no clear, so they ordered all 4 stock OEM (up stream/downstream)and threw them in, all good now.
Mechanic did not want to believe O2 gone bad on a 2019, but at least 2 were bad. Not hurt my feelings, warranty in action.
 
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shottel

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One Month Update: so post tightening the intake bolts, I did make a highspeed run Houston to Dallas 3rd week in March and generated a P2098 code when I got off the highway. Cleared the code and haven't seen anything yet after 100 starts and a few thousand miles so the intake bolts must be the issue as before it was generating CELs almost daily. I'm marking down problem solved. Thanks folks for the idea to check this....
 
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