Coolant system problem.

[DiGangi]

Greetings. 2013 1500 4.7 engine. A little back story and this is embarrassing but here goes. A few weeks ago I was going to head out on a little 200 mile trip pulling a small travel trailer that we have. Prior to the trip I wanted to top off the Windshield Wiper fluid. I was not paying attention and I put the windshield wiper fluid into the coolant overflow tank, and quite a bit of it I might add. Anyway I was none the wiser and headed off on the trip. About 100 miles in going up an incline the RPMs jumped up to 4000 and the temperature gauge went into the red and stayed there. So I had to limp back home at 30mph stopping every so often to let the truck cool. When I got home I flushed the system figuring that would solve the problem, it didnt. I got a code, and I cant remember the code right now for low voltage on the Coolant Temp Sensor. So long story short so far I have replaced the sensor, thermastat, fan clutch, flushed and vaccum refilled the system. If the truck idles temp is fine, as soon as I start to drive it then it goes over into the red AND the heater is only blowing cold air now, no hot air. A couple of other things, the connector broke when I was replacing the Temp Sensor but it still snaps in and I was able to clear the code and it has not returned. When I vaccum filled the system after flushing I forgot to run the heater on high as per the instructions when I was doing it. Also, oil looks fine, not milky so I assume it is not the head gasket. Top hose is hot after running it and bottom hose is only warm to the touch. Plus the radiator cap doesnt seem to be hot and is definately not blowing steam in spite of the truck telling me my coolant temp is up over 250. I am at a loss as to what to do next...water pump replacement or radiator replacement??? Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

 

[EdGs]

If you want to make sure there's no coolant in the oil:

After the truck has sat for a day, crack the oil drain plug loose, but DO NOT remove it.

Get a small container and place it under the oil drain plug. Loosen the oil drain plug just enough that it starts to drip.

Watch the drips, if there's coolant in the oil, you will see it very fast. Continue watching the drip for 30 seconds to 1 minute just to be sure you're good.

If you don't see coolant dripping at the oil pan drain plug, you dodged a bullet.

The washer fluid could have gelled up the works and plugged things up. You could try backflushing the heater core, engine, and radiator.

Gentle pressure, the system is only designed for 15 psi or so.

I personally dislike any chemical cleaners, so I will not recommend using any. I just have no experience with them, and all I've read is they just cause more problems.

Perhaps someone else will offer more insight, I wish you the best on a good fix.

 

[DiGangi]

Just an update, went and bought a new radiator and water pump just wanted to cover my bases since I had already replaced the thermostat. When I took off the water pump the plastic part that was in the engine block was in two pieces...so that was the problem. Replaced the radiator as well since I had the new one. All is well now, truck is back to normal.

 

[EdGs]

The impeller was in 2 pieces? Wow!

No wonder you had no circulation, that could've gone sideways so much worse. Crazy.

Glad you got it sorted.

 

[Rlaf75]

I think your problem was just purely a coincidence. It's very doubtful that the washer fluid alone wouldn't have done any damage in that amount of time.

 

[Gary Fields]

If washer fluid does this I wonder what the old stand-by of emergency radiator refill will do to it?

 

[commander]

I di the same on a 2012, topped off the radiator with washer fluid, never had any issues, Paid MUCH closer attention from that point on!

JT