Cooling problems after preventive maintenance flush

[DinoT]

appreciate any advice--local mechanic performed coolant flush / changed thermostat. Now truck doesn't get heat, and doesn't cool correctly...keep burping the system but the upper hose has bubbles and losing coolant somewhere--no leak, and oil looks clean. Used OEM premixed Mopar purple, which looks same as what's in it. Changed out the thermostat again, no difference--other than engine temps running way high especially considering it's 10 degrees outside. There were no cooling issues before. 2018 5.7 117k miles.

 

[crash68]

Possibly air in the system, how to bleed a Hemi cooling system:

Quick Tip: 5.7 Hemi coolant bleeder location and fill procedure

Please use the following link when ever using Amazon.com. Any purchases you make on Amazon will help support this channel.http://amzn.to/2mALgqSEveryone love...

youtu.be

Surefire way to eliminate any air in the system is to use a vacuum bleeder. It pulls the air out of the system then sucks the coolant in(this is how it's done on the assembly line).

 

[Burla]

With all due respect the time for dyi info is before you pay someone. Now that you paid money to have a cooling system flush (never a good idea) now you want to dyi? My advice, take it back to the guy who did it and let him have the headache. Modern cooling systems full system flush is like a very demanding thing to do, it is not what most people think it is, and shops botch it too many times to count. if you do a series of rad drains and fills you don't run into this. It may not be perfect, but you don't get this. If you are gonna do it yourself keep filling and burping. You may have a bad thermostat as well, it is a common thing on new thermo's, why you shouldn't do a flush and thermo at the same time. It sounds convenient but it is anything but. Check your oil dipstick, you shouldnt be losing coolant without smelling that sweet smell in the engine bay.

 

[Burla]

Get a burp rig as well, you burping like this??

How To "Burp" Cooling System (Andy’s Garage: Episode - 17)

Step-by-step video showing how to "burp" cooling system, and remove all trapped air from within radiator and cooling system. The process in this video uses a...

youtu.be

 

[Burla]

I was a victim of this as well so I'm not judging trust me, on my favorite vehicle ever, those old broncos. Dang shop flushed it and I didnt check their work, 6 months later I see I have been operating with a radiator 1/2 full over flow tank and blackened and dry. When I discovered rmi-25 by the way. Ever since that day, I do all my maintenance, as in every damn thing. Only stuff I cant do does my mechanic see my vehicles.

 

[Treburkulosis]

I did my coolant and I burped it. To me it sounds like stated above an air bubble in the system. I would burp it.

 

[Lakewind]

Sand from the manufacturing process in the coolant passages causing blockage? Anyone else hear of this happening? Did the mechanic that drained the coolant check for contamination?

 

[Wild one]

Sand from the manufacturing process in the coolant passages causing blockage? Anyone else hear of this happening? Did the mechanic that drained the coolant check for contamination?

That seems to be more a 6.4 problem then a 5.7 problem.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Couple things to check that are often goofed up...maybe you've checked some of these already. I'll list them anyway:

1) Thermostat in backwards?? Common screw-up. The pellet goes TOWARDS the engine. Is it a Mopar T-stat? Get a Mopar one. Aftermarket ones aren't what they used to be. High failure rate. Get the right temp.

2) Radiator cap: Inspect it, make sure it's good. Might consider replacing. Esp if it's not sucking coolant back in from the reservoir.

3) Hose to reservoir good? Plug one end, suck/blow on it. Shouldn't be able to blow air through it when plugged. Make sure there isn't a crack/split/leak anywhere.

4) Lower radiator hose: Should have spring in it. That's the suction side. No spring means it might collapse on itself when driving...starving the engine of coolant flow. But then it looks normal when you get out to look at it. It can be tricky source of problems. Squeeze lower hose...ensure there's a spring in it.

5) Inspect radiator/Condenser fins. It could be it's full of bugs or mud/debris. You may need to remove fan shroud and back/flush radiator with a garden hose (when tk is cooled down).

6) Park nose of truck on steep uphill...run when warm. Make sure side off radiator is the most uphill. Heater on full. Run a bit. That should help bleed out air.

7) Do you ...or have you ever heard gurggling under the dash in the mornings after you start the truck...first thing in the AM ...*prior* to having the flush performed? And/or when you go to leave your driveway? If so....maybe the root issue isn't the flush, but a leaking headgasket, causing it to overheat??? Was your tk ever using ANY coolant prior to having the flush performed?

8) Inspect cooling fan clutch (watch a Y/T video how to check).

9) It's always possible the water pump is problematic. It's rare, but fins can rot/break off water pumps. My brother once had a vehicle where the impeller wasnt pressed on all the way. Crazy things can happen. This should be the last resort to look at. But look underneath to ensure there isn't any wetness under the bottom of the water pump. There's a weep-hole underneath. If that's wet, it tells you the seal is leaking and the bearings will soon fail.

10) Verify your dash temperature reading by double-checking with an IR contactless thermometer on the metal coolant outlet...at the engine where the top radiator hose hooks to. Don't measure the hose, but the metal water neck on the engine below the hose. Compare to your gauge. Make sure your temp sensor is accurate.

Good luck. Hope these things help...

 

[crash68]

That seems to more a 6.4 problem then a 5.7 problem.

Both those engines are built at the same engine plant. Difference is the 5.7 is installed and filled with coolant at SHAP/Warren truck

 

[Wild one]

Both those engines are built at the same engine plant. Difference is the 5.7 is installed and filled with coolant at SHAP/Warren truck

When they were building regular cabs,they were all assembled in Mexico,all the HD's were assembled in Mexico,including the 5.7 versions.Even the 6.4's in the cars have issues with casting sand,but with the 5.7's it doesn't seem to be as big an issue
The 6.4's in the trucks are all BGE blocks,same with the cars after 2017,and it seems to affect the BGE block more then anything,as the early 2011 to 2017 standard block 6.4 in the cars don't have the casting sand issue,which makes me think the deeper/taller cooling jackets in the BGE block ,might be a contributing factor to how well they can clean out the block and it's cooling jackets after it's cast.This article has some good info on the BGE block,and also some decent pics of the piston squirters they employ

We Scored a $400 Junkyard 392ci Hemi From a Ram Truck—and It’s the Mother Lode!

Our 392 BGE Hemi build-up journey starts with buying a mysterious junkyard Ram Truck 392 Hemi core. We crack it open and find the mother lode!

www.motortrend.com

SEE ALL 25 PHOTOS
The water jacket design of the BGE Hemi is shared with the Hellcat Hemi block. Arrow A points to a display cutaway of the Hellcat Hemi block, showing the water jacket's 100-percent coverage of the top ring's sweep. At the time of the photo, Chrysler Hellcat Hemi engineer Gregg Black told us it was deeper than the Apache 392's water jacket. For reference, the top of the Hellcat piston is shown 3.57 inches below the deck, making the water jacket about 4 inches deep. A quick probe of the depth of the BGE's water jacket (B) shows it to be about the same. With the BGE block's upgrade to a high-nickel alloy, the tall water jacket relative to the Apache block carries no strength penalty.