Help needed - for best coolant flushing method - before replacing bad water pump & radiator

[NW08Hemi]

We've kept our 2008 Ram (4x4, QuadCab, 5.7 Hemi, Laramie) due to it only having 80,000 miles as of 1 Jan 2022. But I've done it wrong. Whether more from pure stupidity or laziness, I shouldn'ta, hadn'ta, oughtn'ta dumped a half a bottle of that Bars leak 'Radiator Stop leak' into the radiator after it developed a tiny pin-hole size leak, 1" down from the top of the core.

Before buying it for approx $8, I did read the 1&2 star reviews proclaiming that Bars Leak could not only ruin your water pump and clog-up your radiator and entire cooling sytem, but also ruin your entire engine!
But like most reviews...the majority of the reviews were positive while proclaiming that it stopped the leaks.

Nevertheless, in painful hindsight, it seems plain as rain common sense-- to not put anything but the proper antifreeze/coolant mixture into a vehicles cooling system !:~\

But I did. :~\ And after having done so, and not attempting to flush it all out (which wouldn't surprise me if that's not even possible) after a week or so, perhaps it didn't matter too much as to how long it's been in there.
And I'm embarrassingly admitting here and now that... I shouldn'ta, hadn'ta, oughtn'ta been so dumb !:~\

~ Apologies for the long preface ~​

But just like in the 1&2 start reviews warning readers not to use the Bars Leak (et al) products . . . the radiator sprung a leak (or two) on the engine side of the radiator, spraying thru the fan, which of course spattered coolant everywhere. Then the water pump bearings started making those rattling noises. Then a few days ago, a rapid leak starting dripping below the water pump, as if a 1/4" spigot had been half opened. Not sure if the WP weep hole can even drip that quickly!? But I suppose that the seals are also blown.
While the fan is intermittently blowing a 360* spattering of brown fluid everywhere, clear over to the side-walls and all over everything. The brown fluid doesn't smear or smell like oil, and the oil on the dipstick looks same as always, and not showing any frothiness or lighter/chocolate color, so I'm hoping that the brown fluid is just from the shear amount of coolant leaking from the water pump...mixing with the engines' exterior dirtiness &c...and subsequently being blown all over.

However, simultaneously the power steering started going out! But no PS lines look to be damaged in any way. When I checked the PS reservoir— it was a little low, but it took only approx 1/4" of a quart bottle to bring it back to the 'max' mark. And while afterwards driving approx 10~12 miles total—for parts & repair estimates—the PS reservoir level hasn't decreased at all.

Planning on doing an engine degreasing today.

Current condition:

> Bad water pump needs replacing — rattling w/occasional whining & leaking rapidly from either weep hole or blown seals — ordered new Gates 43501 OEM matching WP replacement
. . Or, would it be smarter to order the U.S. Motor Works MCK1067 - Water pump and fan clutch assembly ?

> Bad radiator needs replacing — ordered new GPD 2813C OEM matching replacement

> Ordered Gates 22777 upper & 23068 lower Rad hoses & clamps

> Ordered new Gates K071013 serpentine belt w/Gates 38058 Idler Pulley w/Gates 38382 Belt Tensioner kit— original belt looks a bit like it's starting to fray, and has been getting sprayed with the antifreeze/coolant leaks

> Purchased the cheap Prestone Back-Flush Kit ($3 on the Brazillian river site) — requires cutting &/or adding a 'T' to the "inlet heater hose" (of which I'm not positive which one is the 'inlet' and which is the 'outlet' :~\ Question: Is the heater 'inlet' one the one that attaches to the black heater hose pipe that's attached to (comes pre-attached to) the water pump? Or is the 'inlet' hose the heater hose that's attached to the short silver stub-out on the water pump? :~\

> Ordered the "spill proof funnel for adding coolant and bleeding air out of the system" — referenced by @Hemi395 on his super-helpful "Ram 5.7Hemi Coolant Flush DIY" thread (26 Feb 2018): https://www.ramforum.com/threads/ram-5-7hemi-coolant-flush-diy.116399/
. . .(supposed to receive it today); would like to flush tomorrow or next day, and planning on starting the replacements on Sat morning, 13 August 2022.

Questions:

Given the conditions above, what are the best suggested flush methods? And how many flushes should I do? I would suppose 3 or 4 minimum.

Should I ascertain which heater hose is the 'inlet' hose and use the Prestone back-flush kit & method? Or would @Hemi395 's method & procedure (linked abv), with the spill proof funnel, but no 'T' in the heater hose line, possibly be better?

Any and all suggestions and advice will be greatly appreciated !!

 

[Brando_SLT]

In my opinion I've never seen an engine with that "stop leak" stuff survive. I'd say it's an absolute last-resort if you've got a leak and you're going to throw the engine away.

I wouldn't trust it. Get a remanufactured engine. At this point anything else you bolt on that has coolant running through it will cascade into more problems from here on out. Not to mention potential cooling problems, heating problems (in the cab), thermostat, radiator clogs, etc.

 

[Oliver Closehauf]

So don't waste your time on the back flush kit. Just get new heater hoses. Before you install the new hoses, Disconnect them from the motor, then hook one side to a garden hose and flush out the heater core. Don't be too aggressive with the pressure but make sure you're getting good flow.

I'd do the same thing to the block using the old heater hoses. Pull off the water pump and use the heater hoses to flush out the block. (reconnect them to the block) Plan on making a mess.

You're replacing everything that could be affected except the heater core anyway. So I think a good block and heater core flush is all you really need.

Those T kits are for a motor that's all together. You're cooling system will be in the middle of being replaced. Just flush it before you put the new parts on. Don't even mess with it.

 

[Rlaf75]

If you're going to flush it I would also recommend flushing the heater core a few times because if everything else is nasty then you know the hear core will be too. Plus it gets very expensive to replace the heater core. To flush the system, take the thermostat out and throw that away too.

 

[GTyankee]

I would go OLD SCHOOL
Drain your radiator, run some water through it

remove the Radiator
go Online or the good old fashion phone book
Find a Radiator Shop, not a Auto Parts store or garage that does tune ups, brakes, etc.

Just a Radiator Shop, that may also do Air Conditioning
check their references & years that they have been in business.

Take the radiator to them, explain everything about the holes, etc.
Then ask for your Options.

They will use a hose to check it out
Being as it is a 3rd Generation Dodge Ram, it may be made of metal, if it is, they will sweat the tanks off, then they will set the Radiator Core & Tanks on a rack & then lower the rack into a chemical vat.
It sort of boils & loosens any crud on the outside & inside of the radiator.
After that they may, run a flat rod down each & every tube in the radiator, then they put it back in the tank for a bit.
Then they run water through each tube to clear the tubes out.
Then they test the tubes for leaks, properly repair them, put the tanks back on, retest the radiator, paint the radiator & you take it home.

IF, the radiator Core proves to be unfixable, they can order just a Core & use your own tanks & solder or braze the tanks on & paint it & you take it home.

Or they can get you a complete radiator, quite a bit less than an Auto Parts tore will charge you.

I like watching them do the work, but it sounds like you could be replacing the Water Pump, etc. while they work on the Radiator

Good Luck

 

[pacofortacos]

I've used stop leak over the decades, the biggest problem is a plugged heater core - do as suggested and backflush the heater core both directions several times.

On most older cars, I would then hook up the heater core with the hoses opposite as to what they were prior and let it flow the opposite direction from then on. I haven't seen a core from a Ram but unless there's some reason you can't do that, I would reverse flow it - if you are lucky you might salvage the heater core.

I have lost water pumps doing chemical rad/cooling system flushes - most only last a month or 2 after the flush was put in and run - every time I have done it.

 

[06 Dodge]

One thing I see so many forget to do after a water flush it to use Distilled water to flush out all the Tap water in the cooling system, then fill the system with full strength anti freeze not the 50/50 stuff, tap water shortens the life of OAT and HOAT anti freeze.

 

[njjeff201]

In my opinion I've never seen an engine with that "stop leak" stuff survive. I'd say it's an absolute last-resort if you've got a leak and you're going to throw the engine away.

I wouldn't trust it. Get a remanufactured engine. At this point anything else you bolt on that has coolant running through it will cascade into more problems from here on out. Not to mention potential cooling problems, heating problems (in the cab), thermostat, radiator clogs, etc.

LOL... sell your house too

 

[Freakydude]

radiator shops are the best place to take a leak.......