Crazy electrical

[Nathanv]

Hey I just did a cam and lifter replacement on my 2011 ram 1500 5.7. I had this weird electrical issues where all the relays were clicking in the tipm. No start as well but would crank when I jumped the relay. After jumping the relay multiple times and resetting the computer by touching the two battery connectors together it went away and started right up. When I went to drive I have a check engine light and it was in limp mode with a code p2017 intake runner position sensor high bank1a. I thought the sensor went bad so I replaced it and right when I plugged it in the electrical crap came back and it’s at a ram dealer and they can’t figure it out or aren’t trying I need this vehicle asap

 

[Nathanv]

Hey I just did a cam and lifter replacement on my 2011 ram 1500 5.7. I had this weird electrical issues where all the relays were clicking in the tipm. No start as well but would crank when I jumped the relay. After jumping the relay multiple times and resetting the computer by touching the two battery connectors together it went away and started right up. When I went to drive I have a check engine light and it was in limp mode with a code p2017 intake runner position sensor high bank1a. I thought the sensor went bad so I replaced it and right when I plugged it in the electrical crap came back and it’s at a ram dealer and they can’t figure it out or aren’t trying I need this vehicle asap

This is a video of the electrical crap https://youtube.com/shorts/TOjN6ap63-c?si=KDu3I2DWoJAmMCme

 

[Hagar1]

I would start by verifying that ALL the grounds are clean and tight. Some weird stuff can happen because of a poor ground. Also, make sure the battery is good and connections are clean.

 

[Nathanv]

I would start by verifying that ALL the grounds are clean and tight. Some weird stuff can happen because of a poor ground. Also, make sure the battery is good and connections are clean.

All of that has been done already grounds are fixed and battery is good.

 

[RamDiver]

All of that has been done already grounds are fixed and battery is good.

What is the battery float voltage and voltage under load during starting?

These trucks are so finicky about having a good B+ voltage.
Might be worth load testing the battery with a toaster-style load tester like this $18 device from HarbourFreight.


Could you please clarify?

After bypassing the starter relay and receiving a CEL/limp mode and DTC, did you still have the relay out of circuit?

.

 

[Nathanv]

What is the battery float voltage and voltage under load during starting?

These trucks are so finicky about having a good B+ voltage.
Might be worth load testing the battery with a toaster-style load tester like this $18 device from HarbourFreight.


Could you please clarify?

After bypassing the starter relay and receiving a CEL/limp mode and DTC, did you still have the relay out of circuit?

.

No i cranked it over by relay multiple times, and the issue randomly went away. I also had to recharge the battery because it went dead due to an aftermarket sound system that drained it hard. I had some weird issues after that but they went away until this happened with cam and lifter replacement. I put the relay back in to make sure it would crank by the key and it would I had a code p2017 with it and I think that’s why it was in limp mode but I’m just trying to get it to even start.

 

[RamDiver]

No i cranked it over by relay multiple times, and the issue randomly went away. I also had to recharge the battery because it went dead due to an aftermarket sound system that drained it hard. I had some weird issues after that but they went away until this happened with cam and lifter replacement. I put the relay back in to make sure it would crank by the key and it would I had a code p2017 with it and I think that’s why it was in limp mode but I’m just trying to get it to even start.

With that new information, I would strongly recommend that the battery be load tested first.

You need to get the truck started before you can investigate the DTCs and limp mode.

Also, how deep of a battery discharge are we speaking of?
Anything under 9.5 VDC, it's likely toast.

.

 

[Nathanv]

With that new information, I would strongly recommend that the battery be load tested first.

You need to get the truck started before you can investigate the DTCs and limp mode.

Also, how deep of a battery discharge are we speaking of?
Anything under 9.5 VDC, it's likely toast.

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Completly dead I think I will have the battery replaced and get back with you this is new info to me I was suspecting a fried Tipm but I’d rather try that first the battery is the original mopar battery so might as well try

 

[Ken226]

battery is the original mopar battery so might as well try

You have a 2011 truck with the original battery?

And you live in a state where the average battery life is 48 months. Wow!

Don't expect that kinda lifespan out of anything made in the last few years.

 

[Nathanv]

You have a 2011 truck with the original battery?

And you live in a state where the average battery life is 48 months. Wow!

Haha I’ve only owned this vehicle since janurary it was in Montana it’s entire life it’s got 126k miles

 

[RamDiver]

Completly dead I think I will have the battery replaced and get back with you this is new info to me I was suspecting a fried Tipm but I’d rather try that first the battery is the original mopar battery so might as well try

Yes, we often forget that our trucks are rolling microcomputers.

Computers are always sensitive to any imperfection in the B+ voltage.
Also, in recent years, it seems far more common to see a brand new battery with a flakey cell issue.
This fault typically remains hidden until a significant load is applied, like a starter motor.

You might consider picking up the battery load tester I linked above, to proof your new battery. I've owned one for decades.

If you consider the number of uses, it costs pennies and has mitigated enormous headaches.

The digital battery load testers are prone to false positives, whereas the toaster-style is always accurate and, with care, will last almost forever.

.

 

[Nathanv]

Yes, we often forget that our trucks are rolling microcomputers.

Computers are always sensitive to any imperfection in the B+ voltage.
Also, in recent years, it seems far more common to see a brand new battery with a flakey cell.
This fault typically remains hidden until a significant load is applied, like a starter motor.

You might consider picking up the battery load tester I linked above, to proof your new battery. I've owned one for decades.

If you consider the number of uses, it costs pennies and has mitigated enormous headaches.

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Man I alresdy have one I farm full time the pickup is at a dealer tho 40 mins away I’ll ask if they load tested it and I’ll have it replaced anyways

 

[RamDiver]

Man I alresdy have one I farm full time the pickup is at a dealer tho 40 mins away I’ll ask if they load tested it and I’ll have it replaced anyways

I would advise caution when requesting anyone load test a battery, especially a stealership.

Most parts stores and dealerships use a digital load tester, see above comments on digital testers, but your battery may be so far gone, it won't fool the tester.

Most techs are useless without a DTC, and then half of them don't know how to properly interpret the codes.

Part swappers.

You're donating $ to have them change the battery. I understand if that's what works under the circumstances, but you could change it yourself for less and possibly choose a better battery for your needs.

.

 

[Nathanv]

I would advise caution when requesting that anyone load test a battery, especially a stealership.

Most parts stores and dealerships use a digital load tester, see above comments on digital testers, but your battery may be so far gone, it won't fool the tester.

Most techs are useless without a DTC, and then half of them don't know how to properly interpret the codes.

Part swappers.

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Well thank you for the help I’ll make sure to lyk what happens

 

[RamDiver]

Well thank you for the help I’ll make sure to lyk what happens

You're most welcome.

And thank you in advance for keeping this thread updated.
That will help others with similar issues.

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[Nathanv]

You're most welcome.

And thank you in advance for keeping this thread updated.
That will help others with similar issues.

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No problem and I would cut Man U can’t go all the way up there just to try that If they can throw one in and it works I’ll tell them I’ll put my own battery in because I do need a bigger one I have a 2k watt sound system and that’s what killed the battery before but that was before this dam and lifter failure

 

[RamDiver]

No problem and I would cut Man U can’t go all the way up there just to try that If they can throw one in and it works I’ll tell them I’ll put my own battery in because I do need a bigger one I have a 2k watt sound system and that’s what killed the battery before but that was before this dam and lifter failure

There are an endless number of threads on battery upgrades and battery chemistry types.

Use the search feature in the upper right corner.

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[Nathanv]

There are an endless number of threads on battery upgrades and battery chemistry types.

Use the search feature in the upper right corner.

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I’m also thinking can a bad battery make it throw that code? P2017?

 

[Nathanv]

I’m also thinking can a bad battery make it throw that code? P2017?

And will a bad battery cause it to go into limp mode or will that code cause it to go into limit mode caused by the battery

 

[Ken226]

I’m also thinking can a bad battery make it throw that code? P2017?

Not likely.

More likely is a pinched wire, short circuit or broken/damaged connector that was caused during the cam replacement.

Your truck is a network of several dozen computers, and when something made of cheap plastic gets damaged by an elbow resting on it, the weight of a cylinder head pushing against it or a dropped tool landing on it, **** gets wrapped around the axle.

You should resign yourself to a couple hours spent with a flashlight and mirror, inspecting everything within arms reach of that cam/lifter job.