Detailing: How to Debadge/Favorite Method

[ricky_bobby]

Larry from Ammo NYC has a good video - if the badges are fresh, the adhesive peels off pretty easily, heat actually makes it harder to remove -

If its been years and they are on there good, non marring tool and some Goo Gone (the pro stuff not the cheaper spray version)

It's hard to get it perfect without any marring so a quick pass of polish on the area after and a coat of sealant/wax is all you need

I did mine on my truck about 2 days after I brought it home so was easy (all removed except the fender Cummins emblems)

 

[Treburkulosis]

Larry from Ammo NYC has a good video - if the badges are fresh, the adhesive peels off pretty easily, heat actually makes it harder to remove -

If its been years and they are on there good, non marring tool and some Goo Gone (the pro stuff not the cheaper spray version)

It's hard to get it perfect without any marring so a quick pass of polish on the area after and a coat of sealant/wax is all you need

I did mine on my truck about 2 days after I brought it home so was easy (all removed except the fender Cummins emblems)

It all depends on what you are doing. Emblems can be done with heat, but usually fishing line and adhesive remover is all you need. Then a cut and polish if the truck is older. On my Camaro, I took the side molding off the doors and was my heat gun followed by adhesive remover. For the car being 22 years old at the time, the paint behind it had not faded much. Granted I had already paint corrected the entire car and ceramic coated it lol.

 

[ricky_bobby]

Agreed - I've found the adhesive comes off easier if cool or slightly warm as opposed to heated up with a hair dryer - like I said, if vehicle is new, do it right away, should come off fairly cleanly, my emblems basically lifted off by hand taking all the foam tape adhesive with them.

And then the paint itself is hot if you remove with heat gun (low only very short bursts) or hair dryer, so more marring can occur if you run right into chemicals and mechanical removal of remaining adhesive.

 

[AleYeah]

New owner of a 7 yr old Ram here. I generally love the debadged look, but am kinda worried about the halo effect. Gonna be reading through this thread looking for info to push me over the fence to one side or the other...

 

[Treburkulosis]

New owner of a 7 yr old Ram here. I generally love the debadged look, but am kinda worried about the halo effect. Gonna be reading through this thread looking for info to push me over the fence to one side or the other...

Has the trucks paint been buffed is why you are hesitant on doing it?

 

[Matt Franklin]

New owner of a 7 yr old Ram here. I generally love the debadged look, but am kinda worried about the halo effect. Gonna be reading through this thread looking for info to push me over the fence to one side or the other...

Generally a quick buffing in that area will blend the halo out.

 

[AleYeah]

Has the trucks paint been buffed is why you are hesitant on doing it?

As far as I can tell, it's just been washed and waxed with regular wax, but it's hard to say. I guess what I'm afraid of is removing "Ram 1500", but you still being able to read "Ram 1500" in halo form.

 

[AleYeah]

Generally a quick buffing in that area will blend the halo out.

Thanks. Doesn't sound so scary. I'll post back here when I get around to pulling the trigger.

 

[Treburkulosis]

As far as I can tell, it's just been washed and waxed with regular wax, but it's hard to say. I guess what I'm afraid of is removing "Ram 1500", but you still being able to read "Ram 1500" in halo form.

As stated above a quick cut and polish and it’s gone. 15” DA would be all that you need. Meguiars 105 and there Red microfiber cutting pad. Depending on what paint you have would determine the finishing pad. The Stellants paints really like Koch Chemie F6 for the final polish and then add whatever wax you want after that. I use Shine Supply Clutch on my clients vehicles. It’s top of the line. I just did this pretty beat up F150 this week. Fords like Angel wax for the cut and polish, but same thing clutch at the end and he will have at least 8 months of protection on there.

 

[AleYeah]

As stated above a quick cut and polish and it’s gone. 15” DA would be all that you need. Meguiars 105 and there Red microfiber cutting pad. Depending on what paint you have would determine the finishing pad. The Stellants paints really like Koch Chemie F6 and the polish and then add whatever wax you want after that. I use Shine Supply Clutch on my clients vehicles. It’s top of the line. I just did this pretty beat up F150 this week. Fords like Angel wax for the cut and polish, but same thing clutch at the end and he will have at least 8 months of protection on there.

Looks good. Thanks again. Will report back when I get around to debadging... might be after the holidays.

 

[2023RAM1500ds]

This thread is soley to explain proper and helpful ways to debadge. If you want to add a video, make it a video you, or another RF member made, no outside stuff. If you know some great tips/tricks, make a vid and post it up here, or explain your processes to help out members thinking of debadging!

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For me the best methods have been floss to break the initial bond, pull the residue at a 180 degree, heat gun at low setting and GOgone!

 

[Old Mopar Guy]

Tape area off with Blue 3M tape (more tape is better!!!)
wet down logo/badge area with Goof Off
saw back and forth with Dental Floss
wipe down remainder with Mircofiber cloth and Goof Off
if needed, hand rub with Mircofiber cloth and light polishing compound

Then, IT'S BEER O’CLOCK!!!

 

[Magfan2]

Do not understand this - when I got my used RAM last October there was black goop on all the badges and Ram's heads. First thing I did was strip it off. A significant effort. I like my "Stinkin" Badges"! GO RAM, esp for me, HEMI!