Detroit Tru Trac for 2011+ ZF

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Wild one

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That is nuts. I have a TrueTrac in my Dakota and there was no machining or replacement of axles or carriers required. I think it was $400 including a few parts such as seals. It has upgraded Viper brakes they had to deal with as well. My factory anti-spin has been working fine in my Ram.

The Dakoto's used the earlier AAM 9.25",if you have a 09 /10 4th Gen,they also use the earlier AAM diff,after 10 they switched to the ZF 9.25 diff,and it requires a few more pieces to accept the Tru Trac unit for the early AAM housing. The stock limited slip is okay for the majority of owners,but it is pretty light duty if you do any off roading or drag racing.I blew up 2 stock LSD diffs,and the dealer told me they'd have a hard time pushing a 3rd one through,so I bit the bullet,bought another housing,installed 3.55's and a Tru Trac in it,along with welding my Illicit relocation brackets onto it,and threw my original rebuilt 3.21 diff into storage and will re-install it when I trade the truck off. I was cooking the clutches in the stock LSD unit in the water box on drag radials,they don't like that at all,lol
 

Cshaffer126

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The Dakoto's used the earlier AAM 9.25",if you have a 09 /10 4th Gen,they also use the earlier AAM diff,after 10 they switched to the ZF 9.25 diff,and it requires a few more pieces to accept the Tru Trac unit for the early AAM housing. The stock limited slip is okay for the majority of owners,but it is pretty light duty if you do any off roading or drag racing.I blew up 2 stock LSD diffs,and the dealer told me they'd have a hard time pushing a 3rd one through,so I bit the bullet,bought another housing,installed 3.55's and a Tru Trac in it,along with welding my Illicit relocation brackets onto it,and threw my original rebuilt 3.21 diff into storage and will re-install it when I trade the truck off. I was cooking the clutches in the stock LSD unit in the water box on drag radials,they don't like that at all,lol


Will it transfer TQ with one wheel in the air? I do a decent amount of off-roading trying to decide if I should bite the bullet and go with the Detroit or Yukon clutch type
 

QwikKota

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The Dakoto's used the earlier AAM 9.25",if you have a 09 /10 4th Gen,they also use the earlier AAM diff,after 10 they switched to the ZF 9.25 diff,and it requires a few more pieces to accept the Tru Trac unit for the early AAM housing. The stock limited slip is okay for the majority of owners,but it is pretty light duty if you do any off roading or drag racing.I blew up 2 stock LSD diffs,and the dealer told me they'd have a hard time pushing a 3rd one through,so I bit the bullet,bought another housing,installed 3.55's and a Tru Trac in it,along with welding my Illicit relocation brackets onto it,and threw my original rebuilt 3.21 diff into storage and will re-install it when I trade the truck off. I was cooking the clutches in the stock LSD unit in the water box on drag radials,they don't like that at all,lol

Yeah, I know. I was just saying it sucks they are so much more expensive to upgrade. I have fried 2 stockers in Dakotas over the years drag racing and autocross/road racing. It's pretty week but fine for daily driver or stoplight to stoplight fun. I can't get **** for traction with my Cooper A/T's anyway.

IMG-0748a.jpg
 

Wild one

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Will it transfer TQ with one wheel in the air? I do a decent amount of off-roading trying to decide if I should bite the bullet and go with the Detroit or Yukon clutch type

My truck's never had 1 wheel in the air,it's a drag race/pavement princess and has never even seen a gravel road,lol. Somebody who's into off roading should know if it'll spin both rear tires while ones in the air,i think it will,but I've never actually tried it.
 

RLJ10X

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If one wheel is in the air, and if the factory LSD doesn't help out, the BLD should apply brake to the wheel in the air, and get some torque to the wheel with traction.

It's my understanding that the factory LSD isn't "clamped" together until you're moving.

But man, if you're going places where you're going to have wheels in the air, it may be time to consider a Wrangler.
 

RamKing70

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Hey guys, I'm new to the ram world. I have a 16 that I just put 35s on. Now I'm realizing the issue with the 8sp trans and 3.21s. Through my reading, it looks as though I will be looking at moving to 3.55s. I am mostly daily commute with the sometime fun off road. With all the different changes that have happened with model years, how do I know what axles I have? I think the diffs are 9.25. What is ZF, DTT and the different LSD options? I have also found out that the front diff ring is welded now, meaning it's a whole diff swap.
 

Tyler Yates

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Hey guys, I'm new to the ram world. I have a 16 that I just put 35s on. Now I'm realizing the issue with the 8sp trans and 3.21s. Through my reading, it looks as though I will be looking at moving to 3.55s. I am mostly daily commute with the sometime fun off road. With all the different changes that have happened with model years, how do I know what axles I have? I think the diffs are 9.25. What is ZF, DTT and the different LSD options? I have also found out that the front diff ring is welded now, meaning it's a whole diff swap.
I am currently going with the DTT and switching from 3.21 to 3.92. You will need the DTT unit, 9.25 gears in your choice, a master install kit, a drivers side rear axle shaft, and a new front carrier assembly. I bought the DTT, gears and install kit from Moe's, the axle shaft from an OEM supplier, and the front carrier in 3.92 from ebay off a wrecked vehicle. Comes with a 90 day warranty. All together i am in about $1500 in parts. I was quoted $700-$800 in labor to put everything in. The DTT is THE best rear end you can put in these trucks currently.
 

RamKing70

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I am currently going with the DTT and switching from 3.21 to 3.92. You will need the DTT unit, 9.25 gears in your choice, a master install kit, a drivers side rear axle shaft, and a new front carrier assembly. I bought the DTT, gears and install kit from Moe's, the axle shaft from an OEM supplier, and the front carrier in 3.92 from ebay off a wrecked vehicle. Comes with a 90 day warranty. All together i am in about $1500 in parts. I was quoted $700-$800 in labor to put everything in. The DTT is THE best rear end you can put in these trucks currently.

Thanks. What is my choice if I didn't want DTT? Would not using DTT keep me from having to replace the shaft?
 

Tyler Yates

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Thanks. What is my choice if I didn't want DTT? Would not using DTT keep me from having to replace the shaft?
The easiest swap is the mopar LSD. If you plan on going to the strip or offroading i would avoid it.
 

RamKing70

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The easiest swap is the mopar LSD. If you plan on going to the strip or offroading i would avoid it.

I mostly do highway driving with the occasional off road fun. I found out that my diff is open, that doesn't bother me that much. What I need to do is get something back towards stock. I know with my current 3.21s and 33s were good. Now that I have moved up to 35s, I'm finding out that I should go to at least 3.55s if not 3.92s. Now my problem is, my front diff, from what I'm seeing is welded. So now I need to change the front carrier as well as the ring and pinion but only really need to change the ring and pinion on the rear. I'm still new to all the mods, though I've been a mechanic for 30 years. Mostly straight forward repairs, not too much on mods. So I'm still learning the ins and outs of the swaps. Any idea on a parts list or kit needed to do this? Thank you
 

Wild one

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I mostly do highway driving with the occasional off road fun. I found out that my diff is open, that doesn't bother me that much. What I need to do is get something back towards stock. I know with my current 3.21s and 33s were good. Now that I have moved up to 35s, I'm finding out that I should go to at least 3.55s if not 3.92s. Now my problem is, my front diff, from what I'm seeing is welded. So now I need to change the front carrier as well as the ring and pinion but only really need to change the ring and pinion on the rear. I'm still new to all the mods, though I've been a mechanic for 30 years. Mostly straight forward repairs, not too much on mods. So I'm still learning the ins and outs of the swaps. Any idea on a parts list or kit needed to do this? Thank you

My truck started life with 3.21's,what I did was hunt up a low milege wrecked truck with 3.55's in it,and bought both diff's for $900 "Canuck" no less,then swapped both diffs on my driveway. I kept my old diffs in case I decide to trade the truck off,they'll go back in,but you could also sell your original diffs and recoupe some of your money.
 

RamKing70

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My truck started life with 3.21's,what I did was hunt up a low milege wrecked truck with 3.55's in it,and bought both diff's for $900 "Canuck" no less,then swapped both diffs on my driveway. I kept my old diffs in case I decide to trade the truck off,they'll go back in,but you could also sell your original diffs and recoupe some of your money.

So I found on ebay an 06-11 front diff with 3.55s for really cheap. I'm understanding that this will fit my truck with a different bracket from Moe's?
 

crackerjack1957

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So I found on ebay an 06-11 front diff with 3.55s for really cheap. I'm understanding that this will fit my truck with a different bracket from Moe's?
I would stay with the newer units 2016-2017.......less mileage & wear/tear............06-011 are for those that want to go to 4.10-4.56 gears.......cost you more to install older unit having to replace stub axles, front drive shaft, trans brackets plus fabricated bracket.
 

RamKing70

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I would stay with the newer units 2016-2017.......less mileage & wear/tear............06-011 are for those that want to go to 4.10-4.56 gears.......cost you more to install older unit having to replace stub axles, front drive shaft, trans brackets plus fabricated bracket.

OK. I haven't seen anyone say anything about needing new driveshaft or CVs. Just some mounting brackets. I'm still doing my shopping.
 

Wild one

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OK. I haven't seen anyone say anything about needing new driveshaft or CVs. Just some mounting brackets. I'm still doing my shopping.

Stick with a 12+ front diff as stated,it's a direct bolt-in. A lot of the 6 speed trucks came through with 3.55's
 

RamKing70

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Stick with a 12+ front diff as stated,it's a direct bolt-in. A lot of the 6 speed trucks came through with 3.55's

yeah I found a 12 with 3.55s for 272! Back to the other questions I've had. I have an open rear diff, I'm considering the DTT swap. My understanding is that I would need the DS rear axle shaft as well. Something about the carrier being offset, is that correct? I don't do a whole bunch of hard off roading, so I may just keep the open diff.
 

Wild one

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yeah I found a 12 with 3.55s for 272! Back to the other questions I've had. I have an open rear diff, I'm considering the DTT swap. My understanding is that I would need the DS rear axle shaft as well. Something about the carrier being offset, is that correct? I don't do a whole bunch of hard off roading, so I may just keep the open diff.

Yes you have to swap out the shorter pass side axle to install a true trac in a ZF diff.In your case where you probably won't be abusing the limited slip all that much,the OEM limited slip will be perfectly acceptable.
 

RamKing70

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Yes you have to swap out the shorter pass side axle to install a true trac in a ZF diff.In your case where you probably won't be abusing the limited slip all that much,the OEM limited slip will be perfectly acceptable.

I don't even have an LSD. It is the conventional open diff. But either way, I think I'll just update the gears for my 35s.
 

Wild one

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I don't even have an LSD. It is the conventional open diff. But either way, I think I'll just update the gears for my 35s.

Check with Matt at Moes,i think Matt carries the OEM limited slip units. Finding a 3.55 geared limited slip used diff shouldn't be all that hard,and it has the advantage of being properly set-up,and a bolt in,lol.I'd dig around for an OEM one first before i'd let a diff shop replace gears in my original housing+ plus it gives you the option of selling your original diff to recoup some of your money.
 
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