dimensions for projector headlight lock tab

[Average_gatsby45]

does anyone have a 3d print model, or dimensions for the driver side locking tab?
its the rounded piece on the bottom of the housing


mine broke, and i was goin to try and get a buddy to 3d print a brace

 

[Ken226]

does anyone have a 3d print model, or dimensions for the driver side locking tab?
its the rounded piece on the bottom of the housing


mine broke, and i was goin to try and get a buddy to 3d print a brace

How hard is it to take out?

I do CAD modelling and can create a stl file for you, but not sure I want to go disassemble my truck to get a part for measuring.

 

[Ken226]

Actually, it probably isn't worth the time that it would take to do it.

An entire bracket set, with the tabs, is 25$ on Amazon:

Amazon.com

Or just the tab is 9$.

https://a.co/d/g6dSTZ1

But if you still want a stl file for it, in a week or two I'll have my headlights out anyway to replace the right side housing, which I screwed up while trying to add gore-tex vent patches due to a persistent fogging issue. I'll pull one of those tabs (if it isn't too difficult to remove) and create a CAD model.

 

[Average_gatsby45]

dang, wrong set of tabs -- forgot about that bracket

this is the one i was referring to

 

[Average_gatsby45]

theyre not too terrible hard to pull out - but ive been at work and its pouring rain, and was hoping someone else already had these dims; you know while i was thinking about it .

the hardest part is finding a dry enough time , when i can go outside and get it done

 

[Ken226]

dang, wrong set of tabs -- forgot about that bracket

this is the one i was referring to

View attachment 557364

Oh, yea, i already have those. I'm in the process of designing some now, and over the next few days.

I'm trying to design something than can be epoxied on that will be as strong or stronger than the original. When I finish, ill post up the stl file for ya.

 

[Ken226]

This is what I have so far. Im test printing one to see how it fits.

There will probably be quite a few iterations of print, modify, print, modify, etc before I get to a version that I thing is strong enough and fits well enough to hold up over time.

 

[Ken226]

The way eBay replacements are broken, one still has a stump, and the other has a split at the hole.

For the one with the stump, I made one that will epoxy to the existing stump. The stump had a big crack in the plastic near the root/housing, which I repaired using a soldering iron and some ABS filament to weld in the crack.

Like this:




Here I the printed tab:






The other side has a complete tab, it's just split at the hole i could either cut it shorter, like the first one and mirror the last 3d printed part,

Or leave it as is and use a version designed to overlap the existing tab. Like this:





I'm not sure which way to go. Thoughts?

Either way, I still need to modify the 3d model for a little better fit. I'll work on it a little more this evening when I get home.

 

[Average_gatsby45]

looks like a much better solution than dropping 500 for new headlights

 

[Ken226]

I think I'll cut the 2nd tabs bolt hole off, and leave a stump the same as the first one. Then I can use a mirrored version of the first part, for the 2nd light.

And add a vertical locating tab on each side, to add some more contact area for epoxy and to help with positioning.

As long as it doesn't interfere with any other grill or truck parts, which I won't know until Sunday when I get time to try it on the truck.

 

[Ken226]

looks like a much better solution than dropping 500 for new headlights

How are yours broken? Will this work, or do you need the version that lays overtop of the entire tab, like The pic directly above.

Tomorrow i'll test print a couple of these and see if they work/fit:

 

[04fxdwgi]

Very clever indeed

 

[Ken226]

I mounted the headlights, adjusted them and snugged the screws while the epoxy is still wet. Using only the top screen to hold it, then positioned and epoxied the new lower tab. Hopefully it results in a stress free setup, with nothing pushing, pulling, torquing or twisting against the epoxied parts.





Oddly, the replacements have different color
LEDs. They are OEM, but from a later year (2016), where mine is a 2013. My 2013 had very Amber LEDs, these are alot more yellow.

 

[Ken226]

I made a solid, closed in version for anyone has a headlight with the lower tab completely missing, with no stump to epoxy the other version onto.




To get it positioned and aligned, the headlight should probably be mounted and adjusted. Then, the epoxy added to the lower tab, the tab postioned and the screw installed and snugged down. That way you don't end up gluing it in the wrong spot and having to cut it off and start over.

You can download the files here, along with all of my other 3d printable CAD designs.

2009-2018 and 2019+ Ram Classic headlight, lower mounting tab by Ken226 | Download free STL model | Printables.com

If your lower mounting tabs have broken off, print one of these and epoxy it in place. | Download free 3D printable STL models

www.printables.com

 

[Ken226]

My upper tabs are good, but in case anyone does need them. Obviously, these would require that you dremel off the remaining stumps from your old broken tabs to epoxy these on:



They'll be in the same Printables listing above.

 

[Wild one]

My upper tabs are good, but in case anyone does need them. Obviously, these would require that you dremel off the remaining stumps from your old broken tabs to epoxy these on:

View attachment 557475

They'll be in the same Printables listing above.

The old original 2 part JB Weld works better then epoxy on plastic,if you're looking for a better quality glue

 

[Ken226]

The old original 2 part JB Weld works better then epoxy on plastic,if you're looking for a better quality glue

I finished the job earlier today with Permatex 2 part epoxy. The kind thats blue, comes in 2 adjoined syringes, then turned clear when it hardens.

It's too late to use JB weld, but I'll remember that for next time. Though, I hope there's not a next time.

On these ones, I stuffed 3 dessicant packs into each one. I learned my lesson on the drill.

On the inside, bottom, there's a circuit board in the very bottom of the housing. I'm pretty sure I drilled clean through twice, on each light

Turn a out, the guy whose post I read that gave me the goretex vent patch idea had quads. I drilled in the same spots he did. A bad idea.

 

[Wild one]

I finished the job earlier today with Permatex 2 part epoxy. The kind thats blue, comes in 2 adjoined syringes, then turned clear when it hardens.

It's too late to use JB weld, but I'll remember that for next time. Though, I hope there's not a next time.

On these ones, I stuffed 3 dessicant packs into each one. I learned my lesson on the drill.

On the inside, bottom, there's a circuit board in the very bottom of the housing. I'm pretty sure I drilled clean through twice, on each light

Turn a out, the guy whose post I read that gave me the goretex vent patch idea had quads. I drilled in the same spots he did. A bad idea.

I've glued engine blocks together with JB Weld,lol. My 300's lights give me static with moisture and ever since i added a couple dessicant bags to each light a few years ago,they've never fogged up again,although i did take them out and redry them this fall