DIY Cold Air Intake

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awilstead86

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Hello everyone! Thought I'd take on the challenge of building a custom cold air intake. I know that CAI's really don't do much but this was only for fun. In total doesn't less than $80. Took about an hour. Tried to keep things as close to stock as possible under the hood with little trimming here and there (Remember to measure twice and cut once ;). Have fun!

Autozone:
($43) Large Spectre universal cone air filter (3", 3.5" and 4" coupling options. K&N works too. Whatever your preference)
($2/$4) 1 or 2 feet of 5/8" rubber hose

Home Depot:
($8) 3" ABS pipe, 2ft cut (trim as needed for custom fitment)
($7) 3" rubber coupling (cut in half to have pipe close to TB as possible)
($7) 3" ABS 45° street elbow
($7) 3" ABS 90° street elbow
($2) 1/2" sprinkler head extension/riser (came in 10 pack)

Tools needed:
10mm socket
8mm socket
Hacksaw or something to cut ABS
RTV silicone
Drill

INTAKE REMOVAL
1) 10mm socket remove two bolts holding in intake resonator. These are located behind the oil cap and in front of the resonator.
2) Carefully twist and remove air intake temperature sensor. Check if it needs cleaning.
3) Pull off oil crankcase hose from intake box. Leave rubber hose connection to crankcase.
4) Carefully lift and remove the whole intake as one unit. Remove the TB gasket.

Building the CAI
1) Connect 3" rubber coupler clamp to TB. (Cut mine in half for better fitment).Tighten with 8mm socket.
2) Insert 45° elbow into coupler.
3) Insert ABS pipe into elbow. Should reach above headlamp area next coolant reservoir.
4) Insert 90° elbow to open end of pipe facing down.
5) Measure where you need to trim pipe so elbow is centered for proper fitment of filter.
6) If you have a smaller filter you may not need to do this next step. To fit the large filter you need to trim an inch off where the stock intake box used to be off the base. You could remove it completely with a couple of bolts located underneath accessing them by opening fender well.
7) Crankcase hose is important. This is used to suck out blowby debris and vapors from the crankcase.
a) Measure and cut the amount of 5/8 hose connecting to the crankcase vent. Mark pipe where to drill.
b) If OEM hose was left on for crankcase, measure and cut how much 5/8 hose you need to connect to pipe. Make mark where to drill pipe. Connect hoses with male/male piece from sprinkler extension.
8) For air temperature sensor location, place wiring where you want it to be and make marking to be drilled. (I did mine in front of other marking so no crankcase debris will collect on it).
9) Drill markings big enough for air sensor and vent hose.
10) For vent hose connection place a piece of sprinkler extension into pipe. I used some quick dry super glue to hold in place, then seal with high heat RTV silicone. Insert hose onto fitting. I used a clamp for secure connection for piece of mind.
11) Find a rubber grommet that'll fit hole for air sensor. Insert grommet then sensor making sure sensor is vertical and not horizontal for proper readings.
12) When installing air filter onto 90° elbow use the 3.5" coupling. This be placed behind the headlight.
13) Check that connections are snug and tight from filter to TB and back. You may use pipe glue or more couplings if wanted. My pipe connections are so tight I didn't bother.

This isn't perfect. I do know that there are other ways to go about this, but as I said before it was for fun. I also do know to get noticeable results you need to dyno tune. And purchase a REAL CAI. Thought about taping a threaded 5/8" plastic or metal hose connector with pipe neck instead of my fabrication for crankcase hose vent. Also COULD secure unit with metal hanger. COULD build a heat shield. NAH.
 

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tidefan1967

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Looks pretty nice but is your conical filter just out in the open under the hood and able to suck in hot underhood air when not moving and at low speeds? Not trying to **** on your parade but that's actually worse for performance than the stock setup unless you can find some way to enclose that filter to where it only draws in outside air.
 

Tray Burge

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Great write up and first post at that!
We love do-it-your-selferes around here.
Maybe consider doing some type of heat barrier for sure and maybe wrapping the CAI tubes in reflective HVAC tape to keep incoming air cold as possible if you plan on keeping your set-up.
That's the same problem K&N has, it's a heat sucker because all they use is a shield and that accomplishes nothing.
Great job!
 
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awilstead86

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Mesa, AZ
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Hemi 5.7L
Thanks for the input. Eventually I was thinking about building a shield or better yet a box. Living in AZ where the temperature are currently 100°+ for a while a heat box or shield would be a great idea. As I mentioned this was for fun. A developing project. Thought about building a shield where the filter currently is. Thought about putting a 90 at the TB with the pipe leading to where the original intake box was and reusing the box involving some cutting. Problem is the large Spectre filter leaves little room inside the box. Don't know how much room you would need to create enough intake pressure. Ideas, ideas, ideas....
 

hemi-ram2

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I did this on my old 2006 Dakota. Worked for me. Thanks
 

Neurotix82

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I see one thing with that setup that may be an issue for you down the road.

l installed an AFE cold air intake on my 2004 with the 5.7

On the 3rd gen hemis.. that engine cover you removed to run your tubing to the throttle body is also a resonator and traps vapor that turns to liquid in the bottom of it. It's a baffle that keeps it in..

I believe they designed this when emissions became a big deal and they started designing them to recirculate waste, basically, back into the motor to be burned again.

This is what I did to negate that, though, cuz I don't want that crap back in my engine.

I took the hose off that runs from the crank case fill neck to the CAI tube and matched it up at the parts store and got an extra foot or two longer.

Then I took an Amazon catch can.. high grade airplane aluminum crap. They're crap to use the cheap ones for the amount of modding required to install properly on 3rd gen, but perfect solution for swapping to a CAI and losing your engine cover baffle.

I mounted the can to the side of the fan shroud, cut a circle out of a scrub pad to stick in the screw on filter, then ran a hose from crank case to catch can inlet (no filter).. and from catch can outlet (with filter) to the barb on the CAI tubing. Can't remember for sure, but I think they made the barb closer to the throttle than the MAF sensor. Makes more sense that way, anyways.

2 to 3 times between oil changes (5k miles with royal purple, Lucas and mopar filter).. I'll unscrew the can at about 3/4 full of the nastiest stuff I've seen.

I'm at 300k miles with her and she's in great shape. My CAI has been on for 150k of those miles. My intake tube makes a 90 degree bend towards the old air filter location, then curves straight forward, then curves down behind the washer fluid reservoir and the air filter is down between the grill and in front of the passenger wheel wall.

Honestly.. even though I have not had issues with it.. if I was doing it all over again I would probably either leave the resonator on or go with the AFE Magnum Force stage 2.. that uses the existing lower half of your air filter box and replaces the lid. Still a large conical filter, but they designed the lower half of those boxes to channel air into them, plus they are easier to insulate and separate the filter from hot air.

I didn't notice anything from switching to CAI, though. Honestly, it may be because the engine is programed to suck in a certain amount of air and will not take in more without a tune.

With that being said, I did notice a gain once I replaced the muffler with a flowmaster 40 series. Some upgrades just give more and more performance after other upgrades are working with them, maybe.
 

Tray Burge

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I see one thing with that setup that may be an issue for you down the road.

l installed an AFE cold air intake on my 2004 with the 5.7

On the 3rd gen hemis.. that engine cover you removed to run your tubing to the throttle body is also a resonator and traps vapor that turns to liquid in the bottom of it. It's a baffle that keeps it in..

I believe they designed this when emissions became a big deal and they started designing them to recirculate waste, basically, back into the motor to be burned again.

This is what I did to negate that, though, cuz I don't want that crap back in my engine.

I took the hose off that runs from the crank case fill neck to the CAI tube and matched it up at the parts store and got an extra foot or two longer.

Then I took an Amazon catch can.. high grade airplane aluminum crap. They're crap to use the cheap ones for the amount of modding required to install properly on 3rd gen, but perfect solution for swapping to a CAI and losing your engine cover baffle.

I mounted the can to the side of the fan shroud, cut a circle out of a scrub pad to stick in the screw on filter, then ran a hose from crank case to catch can inlet (no filter).. and from catch can outlet (with filter) to the barb on the CAI tubing. Can't remember for sure, but I think they made the barb closer to the throttle than the MAF sensor. Makes more sense that way, anyways.

2 to 3 times between oil changes (5k miles with royal purple, Lucas and mopar filter).. I'll unscrew the can at about 3/4 full of the nastiest stuff I've seen.

I'm at 300k miles with her and she's in great shape. My CAI has been on for 150k of those miles. My intake tube makes a 90 degree bend towards the old air filter location, then curves straight forward, then curves down behind the washer fluid reservoir and the air filter is down between the grill and in front of the passenger wheel wall.

Honestly.. even though I have not had issues with it.. if I was doing it all over again I would probably either leave the resonator on or go with the AFE Magnum Force stage 2.. that uses the existing lower half of your air filter box and replaces the lid. Still a large conical filter, but they designed the lower half of those boxes to channel air into them, plus they are easier to insulate and separate the filter from hot air.

I didn't notice anything from switching to CAI, though. Honestly, it may be because the engine is programed to suck in a certain amount of air and will not take in more without a tune.

With that being said, I did notice a gain once I replaced the muffler with a flowmaster 40 series. Some upgrades just give more and more performance after other upgrades are working with them, maybe.
I was thinking about doing the same thing as my crank case filter line is always dripping oil on the top of my power steering resv. I too wanted to eliminate all that oil going back into my CAI so I stuck a breather filter on mine as can be seen just above my dip stick.
Would you post a picture with those details in the photo, please?
Thanks
IMG_20150909_190339_843.jpg
 

Treburkulosis

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Awesome write up! I think this should be a sticky!
 
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