Do I have this right (adding an amp)

[clsmith]

I'm in the process of purchasing a 2018 Laramie. Aside from a Tonneau and running boards one of the first things I'll be doing is upgrading the Audio. I'll be keeping the 8.4" but adding my PDX-V9 (Alpine 5-channel amp) and speakers along with a fox sub box. I 'think' I've got most of the process/requirements down based on the reading/searching I've been doing but I'm still a little confused about the load resistors.

As I understand it, the Amp Pro 4 (AP4-CH41) is pretty much plug & play. With it I'd have to keep the factory Alpine amp in place but, with their T-Harness (APH-CH01), I can add my amp AND I don't have to add any load resistors. The plus-side being that I 'could' run the center and surround/headliner speakers off the factory amp if I decided to keep them (big IF).

Alternatively, I could go with the DSR1. I'll need to add the resistors BUT I'd gain all the benefits of a DSP plus I could get rid of the factory Alpine amp. The center and headliner are definitely OUT with this option - not a huge loss IMO.

Does this sound right or have I missed something (or many things)?

Thanks

 

[gofishn]

Sounds right, to me.

 

[clsmith]

Sounds right, to me.

Thanks! I appreciate the help.

 

[TXCOMT]

So where would you mount your Alpine amp if you run along with the factory one, OP? Under the driver's side rear seat?

TXCOMT

 

[TomT]

So where would you mount your Alpine amp if you run along with the factory one, OP? Under the driver's side rear seat?

TXCOMT

Best place to mount amps is on the back wall. Just be careful if you ever have the cab mounted brake light worked on.

 

[gofishn]

My Amp is under the drivers seat on a board that is mounted to the floor. Just enough room and does not bother anything.
i thought about putting on back wall but after I saw how bad my third brake light leaked, I was hesitant. WHile I had fixed the gaskets, I was worried about down the road gasket shrinkage and the leak re-occuring.
Besides, after sound proofing, i was really glad I had not put it there, much easier to yank it out, makes adjustments, etc. from under the drivers seat.

 

[88ROOK]

I'm in the process of purchasing a 2018 Laramie. Aside from a Tonneau and running boards one of the first things I'll be doing is upgrading the Audio. I'll be keeping the 8.4" but adding my PDX-V9 (Alpine 5-channel amp) and speakers along with a fox sub box. I 'think' I've got most of the process/requirements down based on the reading/searching I've been doing but I'm still a little confused about the load resistors.

As I understand it, the Amp Pro 4 (AP4-CH41) is pretty much plug & play. With it I'd have to keep the factory Alpine amp in place but, with their T-Harness (APH-CH01), I can add my amp AND I don't have to add any load resistors. The plus-side being that I 'could' run the center and surround/headliner speakers off the factory amp if I decided to keep them (big IF).

Alternatively, I could go with the DSR1. I'll need to add the resistors BUT I'd gain all the benefits of a DSP plus I could get rid of the factory Alpine amp. The center and headliner are definitely OUT with this option - not a huge loss IMO.

Does this sound right or have I missed something (or many things)?

Thanks

with the dsr1 you do not have to add resistors, built into the unit......i know i have one

 

[clsmith]

So where would you mount your Alpine amp if you run along with the factory one, OP?...

Was planning on the back wall, behind the seat, as TomT suggested.

 

[clsmith]

...Just be careful if you ever have the cab mounted brake light worked on.

Funny, my 98 1500 had the same issue. Some things never change!

 

[clsmith]

with the dsr1 you do not have to add resistors, built into the unit......i know i have one

VERY helpful, thanks for the info! Any issues with Bluetooth or flashing the unit (read some bad reviews about those)?

 

[Spud2388]

Not really sure about the dsr-1 but I have heard it can be a little finicky to get set up (just what I heard, no experience). I ended up going the AmpPro and the Dayton DSP-408. Not trying to persuade you in either way, but the simplicity of both together and using the dsp with Bluetooth on my phone, makes it worth the money for sure. Interface is sure easy and straight forward if you want to expand and go active later on.

What type of front speakers are you planning on going? I would recommend bridging the 4 channels to 2 and running a set of components up front (invest your speaker money here) and keep the tears as is just for some rear fill. Will help with a better front stage and put the money where it will make the most difference.

 

[clsmith]

...I ended up going the AmpPro and the Dayton DSP-408...

Thanks for the advice! Why the DSP after the fact? I realize that you can get really dialed-in with the EQ. Is it really that much more noticeable than correctly setting the gains and crossover points at the Amp - i.e. is the signal really that far from flat after the AP4?

What type of front speakers are you planning on going? I would recommend bridging the 4 channels to 2 and running a set of components up front (invest your speaker money here)...and keep the rears as is just for some rear fill...

I have a pair of JL XR 6.5" components that I really like. If for some reason they won't fit it'll definitely be a set of components. I'll probably just put a better set of 6x9's in the rear door for fill. The subs will be a pair of JL 10w3v3's, that I already have, installed in a Fox box. 12's 'may' be in the future though. I'll just have to see how things sound.

Before I go too far, I should probably actually purchase the truck! Ha! Just want to make sure I have as few surprises as possible when it comes time.

 

[Spud2388]

Thanks for the advice! Why the DSP after the fact? I realize that you can get really dialed-in with the EQ. Is it really that much more noticeable than correctly setting the gains and crossover points at the Amp - i.e. is the signal really that far from flat after the AP4?



I have a pair of JL XR 6.5" components that I really like. If for some reason they won't fit it'll definitely be a set of components. I'll probably just put a better set of 6x9's in the rear door for fill. The subs will be a pair of JL 10w3v3's, that I already have, installed in a Fox box. 12's 'may' be in the future though. I'll just have to see how things sound.

Before I go too far, I should probably actually purchase the truck! Ha! Just want to make sure I have as few surprises as possible when it comes time.

I went fully active and needed the adjustability honestly. Makes setting crossover points and time alignment a breeze! And no, an eq will be fine for most. You mentioned going the dsr-1 route so I figured you were wanting a lot of adjustability.

 

[clsmith]

...You mentioned going the dsr-1 route so I figured you were wanting a lot of adjustability.

You're not wrong! Just never went the DSP route before. Didn't know if I'd get stuck down the rabbit-hole, so-to-speak, with all the adjustability. Does the simplicity outweigh the features?

 

[Spud2388]

You're not wrong! Just never went the DSP route before. Didn't know if I'd get stuck down the rabbit-hole, so-to-speak, with all the adjustability. Does the simplicity outweigh the features?

My opinion, it all depends on what you want or might want. On the basic side, leaving all your amps in full range mode and setting your crossover points digitally is a lot easier and more precise than hoping the marks on an amp are correct. Also, the dsp has built in 13band eq for each channel, so that’s covered and easy to mess with if desired. Time alignment is super easy and makes a big difference and you can adjust the level of each channel (each speaker) to help level things out as well. For $175 including the Bluetooth dongle, well worth the money.