Erratic Dashboard Activity

[DeputyChef22]

We had HEAVY rain, approximately 19” over the course of a few days along with a huge tornado outbreak down here in Arkansas. Once it was all said and done, I drove my truck out to run errands and be nosey. The video below shows the insanity of my dashboard during the drive home. No loss of power, no loss of any performance, just the erratic flashes of warning lights and the service message that isn’t stored in the system.

I fully charged my battery and then went for a dry last night. It did the same thing but the LCD display in the cluster actually blacked out on me but would come back moments later. While sitting still, you can tell the low beams twinkle, wouldn’t call it a flicker just yet, and the high beams act like they’re straining the alternator.

Today, drive it to town, no issues at all. Take it to AZ where it tests 100% on battery, and then showed the starter and alternator to be good.

I’ve completely removed the battery and connected it back so I know it’s secure. There are no accessories that could cause parasitic drain.

It’s a Continental Brand battery with a date of April 2024; never used the brand but with any brand, lemons exist. So here’s the video…please let me know what you think.
Thank you!

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youtu.be

 

[mullet6577]

It's very likely you will get a suggestion to pick up an old toaster style analog battery tester and test yourself

https://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21905183668&campaignid=21905183668&utm_content=171677805782&adsetid=171677805782&product=61747&store=183&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrsnC75jLjAMVtS5ECB0yLACsEAQYAiABEgJOAvD_BwE

Fairly cheap way to rule out the battery as your main issue.

 

[Ken226]

We had HEAVY rain, approximately 19” over the course of a few days along with a huge tornado outbreak down here in Arkansas. Once it was all said and done, I drove my truck out to run errands and be nosey. The video below shows the insanity of my dashboard during the drive home. No loss of power, no loss of any performance, just the erratic flashes of warning lights and the service message that isn’t stored in the system.

I fully charged my battery and then went for a dry last night. It did the same thing but the LCD display in the cluster actually blacked out on me but would come back moments later. While sitting still, you can tell the low beams twinkle, wouldn’t call it a flicker just yet, and the high beams act like they’re straining the alternator.

Today, drive it to town, no issues at all. Take it to AZ where it tests 100% on battery, and then showed the starter and alternator to be good.

I’ve completely removed the battery and connected it back so I know it’s secure. There are no accessories that could cause parasitic drain.

It’s a Continental Brand battery with a date of April 2024; never used the brand but with any brand, lemons exist. So here’s the video…please let me know what you think.
Thank you!

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtu.be

Feel around for wet spots in the floor, particularly around the driver side footwell area. But check everywhere. Wet carpet is a good clue.

Look up at the BCM and connectors in the driver side footwell and make sure nothing is wet and that the connectors are in good shape.

Give the TIPM an inspection for anything obvious.

 

[turkeybird56]

Loose connection, maybe under dash on firewall behind E brake // water in that connection by E Brake // something else got wet in connections causing feedback.
Loose ground.

All Internet Guessnosis. BUT I sure would look at that main connector on the firewall behind the E Brake location: Check for water intrusion.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

I'd be checking grounds every where. Especially the one from the engine that is behind the passenger inner fender.

Here's my suggestion

Big 3 Ram 1500

Big 3 upgrade for Ram 1500

youtu.be

I wouldn't use 1/0 copper cable.

I'd use 2 or 4.

I've done all 3 of my rams and my jeep wrangler. Absolutely no electrical issue afterwards.

 

[DeputyChef22]

Feel around for wet spots in the floor, particularly around the driver side footwell area. But check everywhere. Wet carpet is a good clue.

Look up at the BCM and connectors in the driver side footwell and make sure nothing is wet and that the connectors are in good shape.

Give the TIPM an inspection for anything obvious.

Interior is completely dry. Checked the TIPM when I was messing with the battery and under the cover still looks immaculate.

The BCM is in the kick panel?

 

[turkeybird56]

see my post #4: U check the connectors in drivers footwell on firewall by/behind E Brake? See if they are properly connected and/or wet?

 

[Ken226]

Interior is completely dry. Checked the TIPM when I was messing with the battery and under the cover still looks immaculate.

The BCM is in the kick panel?

It's where Turkeybird56 said

It'll be obvious. The big thing with a million wires and cam lever connectors.

It's easy to snag a bootlace on, and from first hand experience, when you disconnect it accidentally while driving, things similar what you described happen. Only worse.

 

[DeputyChef22]

see my post #4: U check the connectors in drivers footwell on firewall by/behind E Brake? See if they are properly connected and/or wet?

Everything is dry here too. Carpet is dry and has no stains from being wet then drying. No drip marks behind the kick panel either. Looks like it’s never been touched. All the foam is dry to the touch and not spongy feeling.

 

[DeputyChef22]

It's where Turkeybird56 said

It'll be obvious. The big thing with a million wires and cam lever connectors.

It's easy to snag a bootlace on, and from first hand experience, when you disconnect it accidentally while driving, things similar what you described happen. Only worse.

Where am I looking for this? Everything I’m tugging on and pushing together is not budging at all.

 

[DeputyChef22]

I'd be checking grounds every where. Especially the one from the engine that is behind the passenger inner fender.

Here's my suggestion

Big 3 Ram 1500

Big 3 upgrade for Ram 1500

youtu.be

I wouldn't use 1/0 copper cable.

I'd use 2 or 4.

I've done all 3 of my rams and my jeep wrangler. Absolutely no electrical issue afterwards.

Never looked into this until now. That’s a big ass gauge wire. Where am I getting the supplies if I decide to do this? It seems extremely simple. Just tell me how much of what and where.
Sounds like a drug deal lol

 

[Ken226]

Where am I looking for this? Everything I’m tugging on and pushing together is not budging at all.

Skip to the 3min mark

How To Replace BCM Body Control Module Upgrade Swap RAM 1500 2500 3500

How To Replace BCM Body Control Module Upgrade Swap RAM 1500 2500 3500 we show how to upgrade and swap the module on your dodge ram1500 ram2500 or ram3500 pi...

www.youtube.com

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Never looked into this until now. That’s a big ass gauge wire. Where am I getting the supplies if I decide to do this? It seems extremely simple. Just tell me how much of what and where.
Sounds like a drug deal lol

You need 10 feet of wire. You will have some left over depending on how short you cut it. I leave mine a bit long.

I get the wire from a welding supply store or off ebay. Get OFC copper wire not copper clad aluminum wire. The difference is obviously the price. You will need copper end links and a way to permanently connect them to the wire. I use a BAH (big a$$ hammer). I then solder the end links after they are connected by filling any gaps with solder.

3 wires, 6 copper terminals, hole size 3/8s. I usually buy 10 in case I mess up.

Negative battery terminal to fender wire, wire is approximately 15 inches long.

Alternator hot post to positive battery terminal wire is approximately 3.5 feet long.

Alternator anchor bolt to passenger fender. Wire is approximately 5 feet long, unless you want it laying on your intake. I run it straight back to the firewall and use zip ties to take it over to passenger fender.

I have done 2 with 1/0 cable. It's overkill and have done 2 with 2 gauge which is cheaper and just as good. The wire will never see the load it could take so why over buy.

My supercharged RT got a 4th wire from the fuse box (TIPM) to the battery, just because and it's considered then a big 4 upgrade.

Since the RT goes to the track and sees severe duty, that's why I did the 4th wire.

I hope this helps. Ebay link

COPPER BATTERY LUGS RING TERMINALS #10 1/4 5/16 3/8 1/2 CRIMP SOLDER AWG LOT | eBay

HIGH QUALITY OXYGEN FREE COPPER. PICK YOUR HOLE SIZE.

www.ebay.com

Extreme Battery Cable Flexible OFC Copper 6, 4, 2, 1 Gauge AWG Size By the Foot | eBay

You choose the wire size, color and length by the foot that you need.easy! Premium Real Oxygen Free Copper (OFC). 6 AWG, 4 AWG, 2 AWG or 1 AWG in Red or Black sold by the foot. Real OFC Oxygen Free Copper 100% IACS Conductivity.

www.ebay.com

 

[DeputyChef22]

You need 10 feet of wire. You will have some left over depending on how short you cut it. I leave mine a bit long.

I get the wire from a welding supply store or off ebay. Get OFC copper wire not copper clad aluminum wire. The difference is obviously the price. You will need copper end links and a way to permanently connect them to the wire. I use a BAH (big a$$ hammer). I then solder the end links after they are connected by filling any gaps with solder.

3 wires, 6 copper terminals, hole size 3/8s. I usually buy 10 in case I mess up.

Negative battery terminal to fender wire, wire is approximately 15 inches long.

Alternator hot post to positive battery terminal wire is approximately 3.5 feet long.

Alternator anchor bolt to passenger fender. Wire is approximately 5 feet long, unless you want it laying on your intake. I run it straight back to the firewall and use zip ties to take it over to passenger fender.

I have done 2 with 1/0 cable. It's overkill and have done 2 with 2 gauge which is cheaper and just as good. The wire will never see the load it could take so why over buy.

My supercharged RT got a 4th wire from the fuse box (TIPM) to the battery, just because and it's consider then a big 4 upgrade.

Since the RT goes to the track and sees severe duty, that's why I did the 4th wire.

I hope this helps. Ebay link

COPPER BATTERY LUGS RING TERMINALS #10 1/4 5/16 3/8 1/2 CRIMP SOLDER AWG LOT | eBay

HIGH QUALITY OXYGEN FREE COPPER. PICK YOUR HOLE SIZE.

www.ebay.com

Extreme Battery Cable Flexible OFC Copper 6, 4, 2, 1 Gauge AWG Size By the Foot | eBay

You choose the wire size, color and length by the foot that you need.easy! Premium Real Oxygen Free Copper (OFC). 6 AWG, 4 AWG, 2 AWG or 1 AWG in Red or Black sold by the foot. Real OFC Oxygen Free Copper 100% IACS Conductivity.

www.ebay.com

Dude this is perfect. Let me get on this ASAP. Can’t thank you enough for all the details.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

If you look on ebay they have big 3 kits, that come with pre cut wire. And 3 of the wires with the copper ends attached and 3 that are loose. Alot of people go that direction and it's perfect for them. My first go at this was with a kit. I just didn't want the wire laying on the intake, so I ended up sourcing extra cable. Truly your call on what you do.

It's a wonderful upgrade and it solved some of my weird 8.4 radio problems.

1/0 AWG GAUGE Tru Spec Big 3 UPGRADE wiring Kit PURE OFC COPPER Red Black | eBay

No inflated strand counts. No oversized insulation hiding tiny conductors. Justreal copper, real performance, and real results — at a budget‑friendly price. •1× 4 ft 1/0 AWG Red Power Cable •2× 4 ft 1/0 AWG Black Ground Cables •6× 1/0 AWG Pure Copper Lugs (3/8" hole) •6× GP Tru...

www.ebay.com

Good luck

 

[DeputyChef22]

If you look on ebay they have big 3 kits, that come with pre cut wire. And 3 of the wires with the copper ends attached and 3 that are loose. Alot of people go that direction and it's perfect for them. My first go at this was with a kit. I just didn't want the wire laying on the intake, so I ended up sourcing extra cable. Truly your call on what you do.

It's a wonderful upgrade and it solved some of my weird 8.4 radio problems.

1/0 AWG GAUGE Tru Spec Big 3 UPGRADE wiring Kit PURE OFC COPPER Red Black | eBay

No inflated strand counts. No oversized insulation hiding tiny conductors. Justreal copper, real performance, and real results — at a budget‑friendly price. •1× 4 ft 1/0 AWG Red Power Cable •2× 4 ft 1/0 AWG Black Ground Cables •6× 1/0 AWG Pure Copper Lugs (3/8" hole) •6× GP Tru...

www.ebay.com

Good luck

I’ve found one on Amazon which is also where I found a good rated crimp tool so I’m hoping for $100, this can be quick and easy.

Fun fact though, tinkered with the disconnect knob on the positive pole of the battery and heard some action so I’m curious if it got loose due to big tire wobble or whatever and just was acting up. I need to know how to remove it and just use the post of the battery like normal so I feel more confident in what I’m doing with this Big 3 Upgrade.

 

[BossHogg]

We had HEAVY rain, approximately 19” over the course of a few days along with a huge tornado outbreak down here in Arkansas. Once it was all said and done, I drove my truck out to run errands and be nosey. The video below shows the insanity of my dashboard during the drive home. No loss of power, no loss of any performance, just the erratic flashes of warning lights and the service message that isn’t stored in the system.

If the battery was causing the issue, you would have noticed a drop in engine performance and possibly an engine stall. I'm with the majority here; you have a water intrusion issue somewhere. If the issue goes away after a day or two of dry conditions, then that solidly points to water intrusion.

I just went through this when my electric-assist steering system went bonkers after an undercarriage body wash. The dealer blamed my battery, I said to replace it then (it is under warranty), and they said it didn't meet the criteria of a failing battery. I'm still fighting them (it isn't my battery).

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

The positive battery post connector is the terminal connection for a lot of power wires. It's a cheap part that easily fails.

Something like this is my thoughts

6x1/0 Gauge AWG Battery Clamps Terminal, Colored Anode 12 Volt Battery Terminals Top Post, Positive (Red) Negative (Blue) Set (+/-), for SAE/DIN/EN Tapered Top Post, 6-Way Battery Connectors https://a.co/d/a46nujj

 

[turkeybird56]

I’ve found one on Amazon which is also where I found a good rated crimp tool so I’m hoping for $100, this can be quick and easy.

Fun fact though, tinkered with the disconnect knob on the positive pole of the battery and heard some action so I’m curious if it got loose due to big tire wobble or whatever and just was acting up. I need to know how to remove it and just use the post of the battery like normal so I feel more confident in what I’m doing with this Big 3 Upgrade.

NOT THE Parking brake module unit on the left side, the connectors against the firewall, drivers well, to the right of the BCM, check those Connectors!!!
Those are the one that were some issues on the II Gen ED's, a lot were not connected fully and there was some reports of water issues, but that was long time ago,
check those for proper connection and any water issues (be careful, them wires can be fragile).

 

[DeputyChef22]

NOT THE BCM on the left side, the connectors against the firewall, drivers well, to the right of the BCM, check those Connectors!!!
Those are the one that were some issues on the II Gen ED's, a lot were not connected fully and there was some reports of water issues, but that was long time ago,
check those for proper connection and any water issues (be careful, them wires can be fragile).

View attachment 564382View attachment 564383

Gotcha. I’ll get back out there during my son’s nap time and take a closer look at these specific areas. Thank you!