Finally, Ram 6.4 dyno runs!

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theviking

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A bit of a difficult day for the dyno operator but at least I have some initial numbers and a screenshot. For reference, I have ARH catted long tube headers (awesome!), Magnaflow 19200 cat-back, a HF 93 tune, Moe's 87mm tb, and the air intake tube mod. The dyno was a mobile Dynojet unit and they had no fan for cooling whatsoever. Outside temp was about 85 and the humidity was around 42%. Running 285/65r20 KO2's on the factory 20" rims. Still waiting for an email with all the charts/details:(

First runs were the best, but I never saw them or took a screenshot. HP was 370ish and torque was something over 400. Later when I realized he was having trouble retrieving the initial runs I started taking screenshots. Best I captured was 365hp/382tq, but the motor was obviously hot at this point. Still the torque curve was nice and flat, much better than any EcoBoost or Cummins charts (jk ST:D). Not sure what's up with the A/F, need to review the logs to see if it's the tune or the dyno probe. Way too lean for my liking. I did a couple of runs with the stock ECU to help determine how much the HF tune is gaining vs stock. The best stock ECU run in 3rd was 343hp/353tq, but I don't have a tuned 3rd gear run available yet to compare against.

Ram64Dyno_zps41awv0bv.jpg

Was not able to get anything reliable below 3500rpm as the truck would constantly downshift, even if I selected a gear. Not sure if others have found a good workaround, but I couldn't figure anything out. I made runs in 3rd and 4th gear, but with the stock ECU 4th is pretty useless as it hits the 105mph speed limiter. Matt(Moe's) suggested pulling the ABS fuse but that didn't help unfortunately.

The only stock dyno charts I can find on a Ram 6.4 are from K&N (293hp/269tq) and MBRP (316hp/320tq). Obviously dyno's vary and K&N vehicle was a 3500, not that it should matter much. But regardless it's pretty obvious that the exhaust mods are giving huge HP and TQ gains over anything else I've done so far.
 
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mlax

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That's great! I was actually talking with Matt about gears today and he was saying he finally saw dyno results for the 6.4 tuner. After I run a gear swap I will either do the long tube headers or the tuner. In your opinion which one is the best bang for the buck? I don't drive the truck much, mostly long trips and to haul a 28' trailer with two side by sides. The 4.56 gears with 36" tires will help but looking for that little something else.

Thanks!
 

SouthTexan

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That must have been an inertia dyno. That would explain the inability to hold gear and the much higher numbers than the K&N and MBRP numbers that were probably eddy current dynos.

Inertia dynos are not very good at reading power curves because they do not simulate a load especially with heavy vehicles since most rollers are calibrated for 3,000 lbs cars max and not 7,000 lb trucks. The main purpose of an inertia dyno is to monitor any gains from mods. Which from the looks of it, your tuner is posting gains.
 
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theviking

theviking

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Will ask the shop what model Dynojet they use. The K&N is apparently a Dynojet but looks like they actually made a run in 2nd gear, which seems odd. Perhaps this is how they got the gear to hold and why the #'s are so low. The MBRP was a Mustang Dyno but I don't have any other info. Not sure I understand why the inertia dyno would hold a gear better if it was the factory programming causing it to downshift at a specific RPM. Will have to research that one a bit.

K&N
http://www.knfilters.com/dynocharts/77-1568_dyno.pdf
MBRP Chart
64DynoStock_zpscdbs6f5l.jpg
 

SouthTexan

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Oh, and I would not worry about running lean. That is due to the inertia dyno and the roller not being enough load for your truck so it spins the roller faster than the trucks fuel map can keep up/react when you hit the throttle. In the real world this would not be an issue since there will be resistance on the wheels(load) and the fuel map will have plenty of time to keep up. If it was an eddy current or any other type of load resistant dyno then it would not have run that lean.
 
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SouthTexan

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Will ask the shop what model Dynojet they use. The K&N is apparently a Dynojet but looks like they actually made a run in 2nd gear, which seems odd. Perhaps this is how they got the gear to hold and why the #'s are so low. The MBRP was a Mustang Dyno but I don't have any other info. Not sure I understand why the inertia dyno would hold a gear better if it was the factory programming causing it to downshift at a specific RPM. Will have to research that one a bit.


Older DynoJet dynos were strictly inertia and newer ones (I think 2005 and up) come with an adapter for eddy current. So a Dynojet can be either or depending on how old the unit is and the model.

The K&N Dynojet can still be an inertia dyno, but might be factoring in the weight depending on the model and how old it is. Dynojet makes different models and how accurate and versatile(range of vehicles weights and power) was depended on how much money you wanted to spend. I would wager that K&N probably got a higher end model that is probably newer as well.

An inertia dyno should not be able to hold a gear better especially if the roller is not calibrated for a heavier vehicles. Eddy current or load dynos are able to hold gears better because they provide a load allowing for a good torque converter lock up and boost in FI engines. Without a load or heavy enough roller resistance on an inertia dyno, you will have a hard time getting the torque converter to lock up in lower rpms making it just about impossible to get a low rpm reading.
 
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theviking

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Thanks for the explanation.
 
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theviking

theviking

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That's great! I was actually talking with Matt about gears today and he was saying he finally saw dyno results for the 6.4 tuner. After I run a gear swap I will either do the long tube headers or the tuner. In your opinion which one is the best bang for the buck? I don't drive the truck much, mostly long trips and to haul a 28' trailer with two side by sides. The 4.56 gears with 36" tires will help but looking for that little something else.

Thanks!

I think the 4.56 gears will be a huge help. Even with my 4.10's I'm running over 90 in 3rd and 140 on the dyno in 4th. So as other pointed out you're really only ever using 3 gears to tow. I did the headers first, since a 2015 tune option wasn't available at that time. No doubt the tune is adding power and it really helps with the trans shifting. But bang for the buck (on a 2015+ anyway) I'd still say the headers are it.
 

SilverSurfer15

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Would someone please ban this idiot.

Viking... NICE!!! Ive been waiting on this! We gotta get you to a real dyno though lol. You should do a 4.56 gear swap next, and let us us know what you think :D
 
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theviking

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theviking

theviking

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Would someone please ban this idiot.

Viking... NICE!!! Ive been waiting on this! We gotta get you to a real dyno though lol. You should do a 4.56 gear swap next, and let us us know what you think :D

I actually have a 2400 stall Edge TC I've been sitting on for two months going in next. Matt(Moe's) said to wait on the gears since I already have the 4.10's. After that goes in I'll get the truck to the track and see what it actually runs. Hopefully I can find a Ford or Chevy HD to pick on since there are no 12k summits on the dragstrips around here:)
 
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Hemi450hp

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I actually have a 2400 stall Edge TC I've been sitting on for two months going in next. Sean(Moe's) said to wait on the gears since I already have the 4.10's. After that goes in I'll get the truck to the track and see what it actually runs. Hopefully I can find a Ford or Chevy HD to pick on since there are no 12k summits on the dragstrips around here:)

Matt = Moe's

Sean = Hemifever

;)
 

Statcher1

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