Footwell lighting/double feed?

[Egor]

So I have the OEM auxiliary switches for my 2011 1500. One of which I am using for driver and passenger side front and rear foot well lights. Have everything wired up so it works with the auxiliary switch but I was curious how I could tie it in so that they would also come on with the dome light circuit, where do I tap into the domelight circuit, and where do I run the domelight circuit too. I don't want to have any back feeding (if that's the right term) problems.

 

[Egor]

B

Bump

 

[adurm]

There isn't an oem plug under each side of the dash?

 

[Egor]

Of there is I can't find it I have a 2011 big horn

 

[adurm]

Maybe only in +13.

 

[Egor]

So the question still stands is this possible?

 

[Egor]

Bb

Ump

 

[Egor]

Hump day bump day

 

[sbarron]

I have a conceptual question for you: If you were to tie the footwell lighting into the dome light, why would you need to also use one of the AUX switches? What I'm saying is, is there ever a time you would want to use your footwell lights without using the dome light?

If you simply changed your wiring so the footwell lights were only tied into the dome light, you would have all the same functionality and additionally free up one of your upfitter switches.

To answer your original question, you can tie into the existing dome light circuit either at the plugs that adurm mentioned above or in the wiring loom that os under the drivers side door sill if your '11 doesn't have those plugs.

You will have hard time isolating those circuits if you want to use both switching options.

 

[Egor]

OK so if I tap into the dome light circuit will the foot well lights come on anytime I press a map light?

 

[sbarron]

nope. You'll have to use the dome light switch. The map lights are a separate circuit.

 

[Egor]

Ok so that works for me but now The bigger question where is the wire to grab that circuit and what do I tap into it with is there something better than wiretaps because I've heard bad things about them

 

[sbarron]

Inside the cab I personally would be ok with a wire-tap, I used a Posi-tap in my lighting install to tap into the dash light circuit for my switches. Good product.



If you tap somewhere where moisture might get at it, I would solder and weatherproof shrink wrap if I could. Solder and sealer dip (the original use of plasti-dip) if I couldn't get the shrink wrap on.

The below shows the routing for that harness. You'll need to find a wiring diagram to figure out which wire to tap. The arrow shows where I tapped into that loom under the drivers rear sill plate.

 

[Egor]

OK so the posit tap is your new power feed instead of just a switch? In on a sidenote do you see my fuse block will be OK just mounted on top of the fuse box, not inside another box if you don't that's a good idea where did you get your box and how did you run the wires out of it and keep it waterproof

 

[sbarron]

The Posi-tap is only for the switch LED's, so they come on and dim along with the dash lights. The power wires (trigger circuits - all my switches control relays) are different.

I wouldn't just mount the fuse panel unprotected in the engine bay. I got the box from Amazon. Search for a "project box" that's the size you need. The box is more splash-proof than water proof. the wires are loomed and exit the box through grommets sized for the loom. I had to drill holes and install the grommets.

 

[Egor]

So do you buy female plugs to plug your relays into

 

[sbarron]

I used hella relays and connectors

http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-0077943..._UL160_SR107,160_&refRID=11PHV9QD9ZJGA5E2XFEZ

Amazon.com: HELLA H84709001 Iso Weatherproof Relay Connector with 12" Leads: Automotive

 

[Egor]

Do you always use 5pin relays?

 

[sbarron]

I don't always use 5-pin relays.... but when I do.... lol

those Hellas were simply the easiest, cleanest option at the time. I capped and abandoned the extra leg.