From Duramax to Ram in Arizona

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AZRickD

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Arizona
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2014
Engine
Hemi 5.7
A change of hobby priorities (no towing) led me to sell my 2005 Duramax with 280,000 miles.

The 6.6L diesel, 5-speed Allison transmission, and turbo charger were still functioning well. But the rest of the truck was showing the wear. Lots of annual money keeping the machine running. I thought the chance of a major issue happening in the next five years on an $8000 truck was too much. So I sold it to a Duramax mechanic who is going to convert it to a flat-bed work truck (he digs and services wells in the desert).

I found a 2014 RAM 1500 2-wheel drive (my first non 4x4 since 1985) Express crew cab with only 54,000 miles and no dings. The crew cab shortens the bed to only 5.5 feet, so I have to angle the dirt bike in if I want to close the gate. Probably going to get a camper shell and do a hitch mount carrier for the bike at some point.

I did a CarFax. Put a wooden dowl rod to my ear and decided the tick-tick-tick is an exhaust leak rather than a lifter/cam horror story. (valve train sounded quiet).

So, now the adventure begins.

I did an oil change with Pennzoil Platinum and half expected the tick to stop due to spontaneous re-welding of the exhaust manifold bolts, but, no luck.

I'm enjoying reading the hundreds of threads on cams and oil.

Odd that, although asked many times, nobody seems to know what percentage of 2009+ 5.7L have the cam/roller problem.



2014RamExpress.jpeg RamGasGas.jpeg
 

farmallboy

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Welcome.

That's quite a change in trucks from HD diesel 4x4 to 2wd 1500!
 
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AZRickD

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Yeah. My group was rather puzzled.

"Lemme get this straight... Duramax to Dodge?? 4x4 to rear wheel drive??"

I told them that I just didn't need what the Duramax was giving me. I didn't need massive towing. 4x4 would come in handy maybe twice a year.

But the dollar thing was this: If the turbo and the tranny went out in the next five years, that amount, plus the amount I sold the Duramax were equivalent to this particular deal.

The Ram is also less fatiguing and more comfortable to drive and ride in. And even the base+ Express level has more tech features than my Duramax, even with the after-market sound system and display.

So, absent a gnawed cam, I'm not bad off with the swap. Now I have to figure out if I want to plane the OEM exhaust headers, or buy a compact set of headers or other after-market replacement. I'd lean toward ease in installation versus performance increases.
 
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rule18

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Welcome to RamForum (and Ram).
 

Harley Harrold

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:party36::party36::welcome::party36::party36: I have a utility trailer for my Harley Davidson during emergencies.

IMG_0712.JPG IMG_0136.JPG
 
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AZRickD

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Current defects:

1) Probably minor-ish exhaust leak (passenger-rear) that doesn't quiet very much when warm

2) Windshield washer doesn't work (wipers go, sprayer doesn't spray - bottle is full)

3) Cruise Control doesn't work (not even a dashboard icon)
 
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AZRickD

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Hemi 5.7
Cruise Control:

I tried all of the forum tricks that I read about to get my cruise control to become operable.

I did the + button while pressing the cruise button. I did the gear selector trick. No help.

Today I did the unhook the battery for ten-seconds trick. That didn't reset the cruise control, but at least it didn't also wipe my radio pre-sets.
And, my washer pump didn't magically repair itself either.


Exhaust leak
I also looked into the exhaust leak. I put a shop vac in reverse (blow) on one exhaust tip, and plugged the other.

I took a spray bottle of soapy water, a flash light, and reading glasses and scooted under the truck.
I found an interesting leak in the Y-tube connector mid-way back.
I sprayed the underside of the left exhaust manifold. There was a slight trickle of bubbles. I didn't detect any broken bolts.

The leak at the Y-Tube was far greater then the leak at the manifold.
 

quietpeen

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Welcome and nice dirt bike also
 

Graygoose

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Convert, for now.
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small
welcome!!
 
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AZRickD

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Making some progress.

After disconnecting my ODB dongle which might cause systems to remain running, and doing a battery disconnect to "reset" the TIPM, the battery drain now seems to be within spec.

I watched a youtube on cruise control failures. One guy said to look for a rubber spacer on the brake switch. He said that the lack of the bit of rubber (I think it was rubber) causes the system to think the brake is depressed enough to disengage (or failure to engage the Cruise Control).

I ducked under the days and found no rubber spacer. When I depressed the brake pedal, I saw a baby blue mark where such a spacer could be. Not sure if it is adhesive or remnants of the spacer.

I'll have to look into it further.

Here is a video for a Ford

 
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AZRickD

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Taking the truck into a local shop to do the passenger-side exhaust leak.

Belt sand the manifold and re-install.
 
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