Gauge cluster swap

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Hunterb

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HI all,

My gauge cluster has been gradually failing to the point now where the only gauges working are the volt and fuel. I'm looking at purchasing a used gauge cluster from the same year/model truck. My question is, will this work as a straight swap. I have searched the forums and can't seem to find an answer. I realize the mileage will not be correct but my mileage is 415,00k and the new (used) cluster show 400,000 so it's pretty close. Will this cluster work as 'plug and play' or do I have to swap any parts from the old one to the new one? I read something in one thread about swapping something that would allow the key to work properly but I can't find it again.
If anyone has any info or can point me to an existing thread that discusses it that would be most appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
 

HarryS

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It's plug and play. Like you said, you'll need ALFA to reprogram the mileage and hours, if you want.
 
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Hunterb

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Thanks! What about the door locks? I read something somewhere about needing to swap a component from the old one to the new one but can't find it again. Do you know if something else needs to be swapped?
 

HarryS

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Door locks? What does that have to do with the instrument cluster?
 

jws123

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Door locks? What does that have to do with the instrument cluster?
on some years door lock circut somehow goes threw the guage cluster dont ask me why. But when I had my 2008 I bought a cluster from a truck with manual locks and it didnt work had to get a cluster from a truck with power locks.
 
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Hunterb

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I read somewhere that there was a module on the back of the cluster that you might need to switch over to the donor cluster or your key fob would not work but now I can't find that thread again.
 

jws123

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I read somewhere that there was a module on the back of the cluster that you might need to switch over to the donor cluster or your key fob would not work but now I can't find that thread again.
key fob worked for me just make sure the cluster your getting is from a truck with door locks.
 
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Hunterb

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OK, thanks for the reply. I know the cluster is from the same year truck and same motor but I don't know about door locks or other options. I guess I will just have to install it and see if it works. Worst case scenario I have to send the old one out to get repaired somewhere.
 
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Hunterb

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So I did the swap and it's definitely not plug and play. The truck will not start, or even turn over, and it shows a 'no bus' code. The cluster is from the same year diesel truck. It lights up and everything seems right but it will not work. There were differing opinions about whether you could swap clusters or not. My experience is that you cannot.
 

jws123

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So I did the swap and it's definitely not plug and play. The truck will not start, or even turn over, and it shows a 'no bus' code. The cluster is from the same year diesel truck. It lights up and everything seems right but it will not work. There were differing opinions about whether you could swap clusters or not. My experience is that you cannot.
It shouldnt be doing that i have swapped alot of clusters look your new cluster over make sure it didnt get wet ect what year is it from. I have also ran these with no cluster so... kind of odd.
 

chri5k

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Was the cluster from a running vehicle? Electronics from an automotive dismantling and recycling facility can be hit or miss. Especially if left to the elements until shortly before they are pulled for resale.
The better facilities pull the electronics as soon as they get the vehicle and store them in a clean dry warehouse. Even better ones have climate control in their warehouses.
 
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Hunterb

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The cluster is from an 06 Diesel. When I put it in and hooked it up I did the gauge test by holding the odometer button in and everything worked properly. The only issue I noticed was that the gear indicator did not show where the lever was positioned. Other people have said that the VIN # is synced with the cluster and the ECU will not allow the truck to start if they don't match. Not sure what to do now. I put the old one back in so I can still drive the truck. If anyone has any suggestions I'd be happy to hear them.
 

chri5k

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So I am guessing it was not from a running truck. There are a number of instrument cluster repair shops on the internet. Google for ram truck gauge repair. Service times vary from 5 to 10 days. If you need the truck, perhaps send the one that doesn’t start the truck out for repair.
 
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Hunterb

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Well, I've made some progress, sort of. I sold the cluster I bought to someone that figured they could make it work in their truck. I took my original cluster back out and took it apart to resolder the pins to hopefully fix the tach, speedo, oil pressure and temp gauges. I found several YouTube videos showing which chip to resolder to fix the tach but no one talks about which chip, or chips, are connected to the speedo and other gauges. I have been unable to find a diagram showing which chip does what on the circuit board. Does anyone know where I can find that?
Also, I think at least part of my problem could be ground related but I don't know where the ground for the gauge cluster is, or even if there is an actual ground location for the cluster. Can anyone help me locate the ground for the cluster?
Thanks in advance if you have any suggestions.
 
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Hunterb

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Still struggling with the cluster. I sent it to a company in Vancouver who said they could fix it but now they say it's not fixable. I have found another one with the exact same part numbers but I'm not sure it will work. Can anyone tell me if another cluster will work or will I get a 'no bus' message because of a mismatch between the cluster and the PCM?
 
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Hunterb

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Well, if anyone is still reading this thread, here's how I solved this issue. I bought another cluster which had exactly the same part number and installed it. I ran the cluster check test and it all checked out but when I tried to start it all hell broke loose. It would crank but not start, The grid heater light and the CEL flashed non stop, the red light above the temp gauge came on, the hazards started going, it was chaos. I think the anti-theft/immobilizer was totally messed up. I went through a couple of anti-theft reset procedures with no luck. Then I did and ECU reset and after a few minutes the flashing lights stopped, the security light went out and the truck started totally normally.
Everything works as it should now so I'm back on the road and very happy about it.
 
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Hunterb

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One last question for electrical experts. I'm happy that I have gauges again. The only problem is that a number of the backlights in the cluster are burned out. I have new ones to install but I'm afraid if I take the cluster out again I'll have to go through the whole anti-theft thing again. Does anyone know if that will happen again or, now that it's sorted itself out, am I good to take it out again?
 

jws123

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One last question for electrical experts. I'm happy that I have gauges again. The only problem is that a number of the backlights in the cluster are burned out. I have new ones to install but I'm afraid if I take the cluster out again I'll have to go through the whole anti-theft thing again. Does anyone know if that will happen again or, now that it's sorted itself out, am I good to take it out again?
un hook batteries before you pull cluster for bulbs so nothing can change never seen issues like this before.
 

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