Grounding TB

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Wild one

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Why not just ground to the timing cover? Less wire to run & look cleaner

The throttle body is mounted to a composite plastic manifold,the idea behind grounding it,is to bulk up the internal ground path in the factory wiring harness to the throttle body.Grounding the timing cover,won't do anything for the throttle body. Grounding the TB doesn't hurt anything,but whether it adds much is a tough call.I've ran a grounded TB for years on my truck,but whether it does anything,i can't really tell,lol
 

savage_46

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The throttle body is mounted to a composite plastic manifold,the idea behind grounding it......
I'm not questioning the logic of doing this, nor am I confused. I'm just questioning the wire placement. The engine is grounded to the body plus the braided ground suppression wires at the back of the head. Why run a longer wire than needed when you could go to the head, block, or timing cover? I definitely can't be saying that anyone else is doing it wrong as I only recently found out about this. But when I get back from vacation, I'll be digging through my tool box & extra harnesses laying around. I know there'd be a few options there.
 

Wild one

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I'm not questioning the logic of doing this, nor am I confused. I'm just questioning the wire placement. The engine is grounded to the body plus the braided ground suppression wires at the back of the head. Why run a longer wire than needed when you could go to the head, block, or timing cover? I definitely can't be saying that anyone else is doing it wrong as I only recently found out about this. But when I get back from vacation, I'll be digging through my tool box & extra harnesses laying around. I know there'd be a few options there.

Gotch,i mis-understood what you were saying,i thought you were meaning ground the timing cover,not running from the TB to the cover.That'd work. You can also bulk up the factory grounds to,as FCA is a bit stingy on the wiring. I ran extra grounds to the fenders/pcm / from the frame to the box/from the frame to the engine and from the frame to the battery/ the engine to the battery etc,plus bulked up the hot feed from the alternator to the battery,then from the battery to the fuse box. I did this to combat an issue i had with the tailgate not locking or unlocking properly when the truck was brand new.Dealer replaced the lock under warrenty,and the new lock started doing the same thing as the original lock after about 2 months,after i bulked up the grounds and hot feed,i've never had another issue with the tailgate lock,and that was 6 years ago,lol
 

RoadRamblerNJ

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I have some TB and idle issues on occassion with my 03 so like I said before I am gonna try this, and having a grounding strap dragging under my Truck may add to the Pyscology of this? If Hammer says he noticed a diff, I beleive!
All the power company trucks have grounding chains hanging from under their trucks. Granted, they're messing with 7,000 VAC. The trick is not to become part of the circuit. One hand in your pocket!
 

RoadRamblerNJ

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I would think that more grounds spaced out would be more beneficial then just making the current grounds bigger. The ground straps used probably have the lowest resistance in the entire ground path (motor, frame, body, etc...). So the electrons still have to travel to those same ground points in the more resistant materials. If there were more ground points between frame, body, and motor then the electrons would be able to travel to the closest ground point and not have to travel as far in the higher resistance material.

Didja know: electrons like to travel along the surface of a conductor, hence why manufacturers use straps with a ton of separate strands to create more surface area. This is also the reason why motor blocks, frames, and sheet metal are not as good of conductors as a stranded wire.
They're also not made out of pure copper and the wire is. Copper is a much better conductor than cast iron, steel or aluminum. May have something to do with it..
 

RoadRamblerNJ

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i wander if it works with the pedal commander or conflicts with it just wandering
PC is just a glorified rheostat. Anything electrical will always "work better" if you reduce the resistance in the circuit. Larger cables does that. Whether or not the difference is measurable or beneficial is another question.
 

Doodoo972

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Ok now I see the light...
Thanks a lot NJMOPAR I will try this tomorrow.
 

rule18

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All the power company trucks have grounding chains hanging from under their trucks. Granted, they're messing with 7,000 VAC. The trick is not to become part of the circuit. One hand in your pocket!
That reminds me of a guy that shouldn't have been but was about to start working in a high voltage panel, and asked me why I was holding a 2x4.
 
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kurek

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I'd imagine that this could be settled with a youtube channel (to serve as a macguffin for actually doing the work) and a DSO or GPIO data logger. It would be necessary (probably) to drive around a bit to build up the static charge, but we never hear of intake manifolds exploding from an arc and a blend of PCV gases so it may not have much voltage potential.
 

scott lass 18

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I got idle drop and stall at stop to 400 almost turns off maybe I ll try nothing else has work ? maybe the ecm ?
 

NJMOPAR

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Took my first long highway run since grounding the TB and got 19.2, best I've ever seen in this truck.
Previous best same run was 18.4
 

savage_46

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Took my first long highway run since grounding the TB and got 19.2, best I've ever seen in this truck.
Previous best same run was 18.4
Pretty good improvement. Everything else the same? No tailwind? No significant drop in weight? Not drafting a semi truck?
 

NJMOPAR

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Actually last time I did this run was before the Superchips 93 octane tune & Vararam, steady 70mph and no AC.
This time steady 80mph with AC on.
 
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