Header Install Questions Need help

[Mopar Mahem]

Hello everyone ima newb here to forums of any kind really. I have a 2007 ram hemi 1500 with an exhaust leak, so i was just gonna take out the stock manifold and install new Hedman LT headers.

Now I dont have a whole lot of experience working on trucks other than The AEM CAI I have on it.

My question basically is how much trouble am I getting myself into? I have a sterdy aluminum racing jack (and plan on getting the jack stands), but do I need to take off the motor mounts and lift the engine to make the headers fit or can i do It without it? Does anyone have experience with Hedman LTs preferably on a 2007 hemi? Basically if anyone knows of any potential problems with this please tell me. I would like to do it myself but If i have to have them installed I will.

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

Welcome to the forum bud, think there not that bad of an install prob 6-8 hrs long as no manafold bolts break off. Do those come with a new y pipe? If not your gonna need an exhaust shop to fit the rest of the exhaust to it. Also will prob need o2 exteneders for the rear o2 sensors.

 

[TheSatinPumpkin]

No clearance issues for 2WD 04 RC. Removed my cats and Y for 3" ORY. Use OEM mopar gaskets. Stage 8 locks are nice but not required.

 

[Mopar Mahem]

Yes, I was planning on just having straight headers for a short time just to mess around with then after a week or so i plan on just taking it into the muffle shop for the Y and cats...Most concerned about problems and clearance things of that sort

 

[truckin151]

Nah you'll be good, just removee the wheel well liners and you have access to all the bolts, to make it easier put it on jack stands and take the wheels off too. May have a tap on the trans that will need trimming on the passenger side but that's about it. Should take about 4-6hrs in your driveway with hand tools

 

[Mopar Mahem]

Thanks guys really appreciate it. Ill post pics after they are installed

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

Also move the wiring harnesses out of the way so they dont lay on the header.

 

[Mopar Mahem]

Ok will do.

I know i might be a bit repetative but what would you suggest as a tool list.

I got so far in my mind:

channel lock
Torque wrench
Breaker Bar
Ratchet (with extention)
Grinder (hope not)
Electric saw
rust remover (maybe redundant)
A few other small things anything to add?


sorry just dont wanna do this unprepared

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

Swivels for your ratchets should be added. Get a set of OEM gaskets also. Daniel already suggested stage 8s which are a good idea also.

 

[03MopaRamman]

Welcome, Looks like you got all the best pointers, don't worry about removal of the manifold bolts, not a problem on a cold engine, especially your Truck is newer!

 

[Mopar Mahem]

thx again guys.... I think I got it from here... the truck is new but the rust is worse than my friends 2002 because the previous owner must have lived in galvaston or near a beach. You can literally stick ur hand in some of the welds underneath and sand falls out. But shouldnt be too hard

 

[Hammer_Z71]

This isn't a bad install at all. Took me about 3 hours in the driveway. I didn't lift the truck up or remove the tires (but my truck is lifted, so I had the room underneath).

I did use a local muffler shop to weld my cats back in (about 18" back). I've been welding for years, but with the tight fitment and trying to weld while laying under the truck, the shop only charged me $75 to finish it up for me. Took 'em about 30 mins with the truck on a lift. Only thing I had to do when I got it back home was cut/splice/extend the O2s.

I think the single most important thing is torquing the bolts correctly. Tighten the bolts to spec when you install the headers, then when you are done, run the truck. Let it get up to full operating temp and then get back under (being very careful not to burn yourself) and re-torque to spec with the headers as hot as they are gonna get.

If you do this, you'll greatly decrease the likelihood of them constantly loosening on you.

I also don't like those locking header bolts that are becoming populer. A performance shop guru near me, advised me not to use them EVER with an aluminum engine. Road vibrations will effect the weakest link, and if the strong steel bolts are locked in place, the thing to fail will be the soft threads of the engine. Better to have to check and re-torque the bolts once or twice a year than to have to have the engine re-tapped.

Good luck...

 

[weedahoe]

Agreed on everything here. I did my own LTs and I love them