Help, Cam / lifter change 4 miles truck stops

[Wild one]

I thought many members here use the royal ourple and like it. Originally ibqwas going to use the penn grade 5-20.
What is the preferred oil? I was using mobile 1.
I have acces to many different oils so what do you use in your 5.7 hemi? What is your recommendations?
Rod

I think you've mistaken the Royal Purple oil filters for Royal Purple oil. The filters they make are very good,their oil maybe not so much. I wonder if you were mistaking Redline oil for Royal Purple oil. Redline oil good,Royal Purple oil not so good

 

[rod7515]

Just an update on the truck. It's been a few weeks and I'm over 300 Mike's and all is running good. Mitorbhas a 2 or 3 second tap on cold startup but is very quiet after that. I did change oil and filter at 250 miles. I'm not using it to pull my mower trailer anymore since I bought the Gmc Yukon with 250k Mile's on it. Figure I'd just make that my everyday vehicle and save the truck. Again thanks to everyone for your help.
Rod

 

[HanSolomon]

I don't mean to dig up this old thread, but I thought it was better than starting something new, since alot of the information here pertains to my question.

Recently started to tackle the cam and lifter replacement in my 13 Ram 1500. I got as far as installing the cam, oil pump, lifters, and heads. After I got the heads installed I was able to torque the cam phaser bolt to 72 ft/lbs, the value listed in the service manual I was following. I then noticed that another page in the service manual listed the value at 90 ft/lbs. I then came here for some clarification and have since learned that the 90 ft/lb value is the correct torque and I should also use blue loctite on the threads of the bolt.

My question is, since I didn't torque the bolt to the 90 ft/lbs or apply the blue loctite should I....

A) Simply go back in and torque the bolt up from 72 to 90
B) Back the bolt out, apply blue loctite and torque to 90
C) Remove the bolt, replace with a new bolt, apply the blue loctite & torque to 90

I know these are torque to yield bolts and once they are torqued they stretch and shouldn't be re-used. Since I never made it to the full 90 ft/lbs does this still apply? Just wanted an opinion or 2 from someone with a bit more experience. I have no problem replacing the bolt if it that is what other recommend.

 

[Ken226]

I'd do A

C would be fine too.

I wouldn't do B.

 

[jws123]

Id do C if its under torqued you shear the cam pin causing a blown engine at some point also if the bolt is torqued to many times it will stretch had someone blow a engine this way.

 

[HanSolomon]

Thanks for the replies. A and C were the 2 options I was considering most. I have yet to install the timing cover so it will be relatively easy for either option.

Just wanted to add that the bolt I have installed currently is brand new and was only torqued one time to 72 ft/lbs

Does anyone know if the cam phaser will stay in place with the bolt removed? I want to avoid messing with the timing again if at all possible

 

[jws123]

Thanks for the replies. A and C were the 2 options I was considering most. I have yet to install the timing cover so it will be relatively easy for either option.

Just wanted to add that the bolt I have installed currently is brand new and was only torqued one time to 72 ft/lbs

Does anyone know if the cam phaser will stay in place with the bolt removed? I want to avoid messing with the timing again if at all possible

If the bolt is new just torque it to 90 your good I was under the impression it was the orig bolt.

 

[Ken226]

Thanks for the replies. A and C were the 2 options I was considering most. I have yet to install the timing cover so it will be relatively easy for either option.

Just wanted to add that the bolt I have installed currently is brand new and was only torqued one time to 72 ft/lbs

Does anyone know if the cam phaser will stay in place with the bolt removed? I want to avoid messing with the timing again if at all possible

Do you have a 3d printer? Or a friend who has one?

If so, send me a PM, i've been looking for someone who is at about the same stage in the process as you are to try out a tool i designed that lockes the cam phaser in place so you can torque the cam bolt.

It's similar to a steel tool that I have, but thicker and with more teeth so that (hopefully) a plastic version it's strong enough.

 

[EdGs]

I wonder if the cam pin shearing has more to do with the rotational force exerted on the pin if the cam phaser is not held properly when torquing down the cam bolt?

 

[Wild one]

I wonder if the cam pin shearing has more to do with the rotational force exerted on the pin if the cam phaser is not held properly when torquing down the cam bolt?

Shouldn't be any rotational forces on the pin while you're torquing the bolt. You're not holding the camshaft itself when you torque the bolt,you're holding the phasor/upper gear,the camshaft itself is free to turn

 

[HanSolomon]

@jws123 thanks, I think that’s what I will do. I did order another bolt just incase I change my mind between today and Saturday

@Ken226 yes actually, the company I work for has 2 mark forged 3D printers. I would be happy to test it out for you. I put the heads on and plugs in to torque the bolt the first time around, and that worked great, but I’d be interested in trying another method. I’ll send you a PM so we can work the details out.

 

[EdGs]

Shouldn't be any rotational forces on the pin while you're torquing the bolt. You're not holding the camshaft itself when you torque the bolt,you're holding the phasor/upper gear,the camshaft itself is free to turn

Yeah, you're right.

The FSM is very confusing listing several different torque values for that same bolt. Then it must be the lower torque values allow the phaser to slip and put sideways pressure on the pin?

Wonder if some pins might also be more brittle from improper heat treat?

 

[Wild one]

Yeah, you're right.

The FSM is very confusing listing several different torque values for that same bolt. Then it must be the lower torque values allow the phaser to slip and put sideways pressure on the pin?

Wonder if some pins might also be more brittle from improper heat treat?

Sure makes you question the Factory Service Manual doesn't it

 

[Ken226]

@jws123 thanks, I think that’s what I will do. I did order another bolt just incase I change my mind between today and Saturday

@Ken226 yes actually, the company I work for has 2 mark forged 3D printers. I would be happy to test it out for you. I put the heads on and plugs in to torque the bolt the first time around, and that worked great, but I’d be interested in trying another method. I’ll send you a PM so we can work the details out.

Drop me your email address in a PM and i'll send you a .stl and .stp file.

I took an existing design as inspiration, but changed it to make it stronger to increase the change of it working when printed in a material like ABS or PLA. It'll need to be printed pretty much solid, or at least with a very high infill density.

 

[EdGs]

Sure makes you question the Factory Service Manual doesn't it

What I dislike the most about the FSM is it repeats the same stuff mutiple times.

It could be condensed much better, I think.