Lifter and Cam Selection for MDS Delete

[Marf]

I am planning an MDS delete and high volume oil pump installation on my 2009 5.7 Ram, and am looking for help to clear up some confusion on selecting the right parts for my application. For background, I bought the truck new, have cared well for it, garage kept, only 85,000 miles, and I intend to continue enjoying to drive it indefinitely. Only performance upgrades are Flowmaster exhaust and Vararam intake, both of which have been on it for over 10 years. The only problem the truck has ever had are broken exhaust manifold bolts, and now it has developed another tick that occurs intermittently at start up. To resolve this once and for all, I purchased a set of SS shorty headers, which I have not yet installed. I have no reason to believe that I have a faulty lifter or worn cam (yet), but have decided on proactively doing to do this job for long term piece of mind and for the love of my truck. Any help you can give with selecting the right parts would be greatly appreciated:

For the cam shaft and lifters, my biggest priority is build quality and long term durability, but am not ruling out a mild upgrade to the cam. Three questions here. Are there aftermarket parts, such as Melling cams and Johnson lifters, that are higher quality than MOPAR? Are MOPAR aftermarket parts higher quality than the OEM parts currently installed? Since I do not intend to install any additional performance upgrades, should I rule out installing a mild performance cam?

Are there pros or cons on the Melling M452HV versus Hellcat oil pump?

While I have the engine disassembled, I intend to replace the water pump, oil pick-up, and oil control valve solenoid just for general maintenance. Does this list sound right? Am i missing anything obvious that should be replaced while I have it apart?

Thank you for listening.

 

[DILLIGAF]

A mild cam dosent require a Hellcat pump, This is straight from Matt on HiPo Rams FB page, a simple tune with idle set to 750rpm gives you 50 psi at idle with 5w30

This is a one stop shop were I got my stuff.

Hemi Cam Kits

Texas-Based Mopar Parts House

frptuning.com

 

[Wild one]

I am planning an MDS delete and high volume oil pump installation on my 2009 5.7 Ram, and am looking for help to clear up some confusion on selecting the right parts for my application. For background, I bought the truck new, have cared well for it, garage kept, only 85,000 miles, and I intend to continue enjoying to drive it indefinitely. Only performance upgrades are Flowmaster exhaust and Vararam intake, both of which have been on it for over 10 years. The only problem the truck has ever had are broken exhaust manifold bolts, and now it has developed another tick that occurs intermittently at start up. To resolve this once and for all, I purchased a set of SS shorty headers, which I have not yet installed. I have no reason to believe that I have a faulty lifter or worn cam (yet), but have decided on proactively doing to do this job for long term piece of mind and for the love of my truck. Any help you can give with selecting the right parts would be greatly appreciated:

For the cam shaft and lifters, my biggest priority is build quality and long term durability, but am not ruling out a mild upgrade to the cam. Three questions here. Are there aftermarket parts, such as Melling cams and Johnson lifters, that are higher quality than MOPAR? Are MOPAR aftermarket parts higher quality than the OEM parts currently installed? Since I do not intend to install any additional performance upgrades, should I rule out installing a mild performance cam?

Are there pros or cons on the Melling M452HV versus Hellcat oil pump?

While I have the engine disassembled, I intend to replace the water pump, oil pick-up, and oil control valve solenoid just for general maintenance. Does this list sound right? Am i missing anything obvious that should be replaced while I have it apart?

Thank you for listening.

Shorty headers are garbage,either spring for a decent set of long tubes,or stick with the stock manifolds. The majority of shorties are prone to cracking at the welds,if you're hung up on them,Talk to Nick @Got Exhaust and buy a set of the high dollar AFE's from him.
Talk to Matt Fikac at Moes or Ryan Hogan at FRP for a cam that suits your application.

 

[Marf]

I will talk to Ryan at FRP. Thank you for the tip.

 

[Grams]

If you are considering an oil pump change, take a look at this….(skip to 15 minute if you want to know only about oil pumps…but the entire vid is excellent if you want to know about the issue): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1gpEwkTVCmE

He also has a vid specifically about oil pump differences if interested.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Yup great video. But why he dosent mention bumping the idle and getting a custom tune is beyond me.

 

[Xsen]

I think that is due to him being a tech at one of the dealerships - no matter what he thinks personally, he won't recommend something that could possibly go out of line with emissions etc., like using thicker oil or bumping idle up.

I've been watching his videos for a few years and as he said he did mess with the tune on his dual-charged 6.4 (before it blew, partially due to this), I'm sure the idle was changed too. Given that the engine had a performance cam...

OP, I've recently rebuilt my 5.7 using melling 10452HV oil pump with the softer pressure relief spring that comes with it. It works exactly as expected - as the pump rotor height is +12% against stock, that's about the same increase I see in oil pressure across the rpms. I have my idle up at 675 rpm.

 

[Wild one]

I think that is due to him being a tech at one of the dealerships - no matter what he thinks personally, he won't recommend something that could possibly go out of line with emissions etc., like using thicker oil or bumping idle up.

I've been watching his videos for a few years and as he said he did mess with the tune on his dual-charged 6.4 (before it blew, partially due to this), I'm sure the idle was changed too. Given that the engine had a performance cam...

OP, I've recently rebuilt my 5.7 using melling 10452HV oil pump with the softer pressure relief spring that comes with it. It works exactly as expected - as the pump rotor height is +12% against stock, that's about the same increase I see in oil pressure across the rpms. I have my idle up at 675 rpm.

I'd bump that up another 75 to 100 rpm,750+ is a better idle rpm for the hemi. Remember the old carb days when everything idled at 700+ and the high performance cars idled at 900+ rpm

 

[Xsen]

I'd bump that up another 75 to 100 rpm,750+ is a better idle rpm for the hemi. Remember the old carb days when everything idled at 700+ and the high performance cars idled at 900+ rpm

I keep thinking this over, and my only concern is whether this would go okay with the ZF tranny. Even at 675 rpm I can feel that the truck is trying to push forward while braking to a stop and once I take my foot off the brakes, I can feel the increased torque VS stock idle rpm. How does 750+ idle drive in traffic? Is it kinda jumpy?

 

[04fxdwgi]

725 on mine and it is fine. Sitting at a light in drive and the only thing that absorbs the extra RPM is the torque converter. Probably making extra heat, but hasn't been a concern on mine, even in 100 degree weather. Towing does worse heat buildup.

Truck doesn't "jump" when foot comes off brake, but will creep up a bit more.

 

[Wild one]

I keep thinking this over, and my only concern is whether this would go okay with the ZF tranny. Even at 675 rpm I can feel that the truck is trying to push forward while braking to a stop and once I take my foot off the brakes, I can feel the increased torque VS stock idle rpm. How does 750+ idle drive in traffic? Is it kinda jumpy?

I had the idle set at 750 in both my ZF equipped vehicles,and never had any issues with creep,but i'm also in the habit of throwing everything into neutral just before coming to a stop.
Never noticed much differance in rush hour traffic