Help

[Trey1123]

I have a 2017 ram 5.7 and the rpms are all over the place. On start up the rpms will go to 2,000 rpm and then drop to 1,000 rpm or it will drop to 1,500 rpm and start bouncing between 1,500 and 2,000 rpm or it will drop to 500 rpm and almost stall but doesn't. I have replaced the throttle body and can't find any vacuum leaks. The code it shows is p0507 and p2173

 

[Ken226]

Check the torque of your intake manifold bolts. Torque them to 105 in lbs. (Not ft lbs).

Sounds like a big air leak

 

[diymirage]

i presume the issue was present before you replaced the throttle body?
i agree it sounds like a vacuum leak, so check those line

but since you replaced the throttle body, i would check to make sure there was no parts of the old gasket left

 

[Trey1123]

Checked intake manifold bolts, all are torqued to 105 in lbs. I've checked every hose i can find for a leak and can't find one. I really don't know what else to do, it's had me stumped for almost a week now. The issue started after I replaced the gasket for the water pump as it was leaking, no issues leading up to that

 

[Wild one]

Try spraying starting fluid around the manifold and throttle body,if it revs up,you have a vacumn leak somewhere.
If you happened to hurt one of the throttle body attaching holes,you can fix it by making yourself some home made 1/4" studs out of ready rod / all thread.

 

[Burla]

Look up procedure for idle re learn reset. Did you have battery unplugged when you did throttle body?

 

[Trey1123]

I

Look up procedure for idle re learn reset. Did you have battery unplugged when you did throttle body?

I had it unplugged and I also did the relearn

 

[Burla]

clean your idle control valve.

 

[Trey1123]

Decided to replace intake manifold gaskets and it didn't change anything. I checked and rechecked all the vacuum lines and still can't find a leak.

 

[Ken226]

Decided to replace intake manifold gaskets and it didn't change anything. I checked and rechecked all the vacuum lines and still can't find a leak.

Did you take the advice in post#5, because that is the oldest trick in the book for finding a vacuum leak.

When the ether gets into the intake air stream, you will know it!

 

[Trey1123]

Did you take the advice in post#5, because that is the oldest trick in the book for finding a vacuum leak.

When the ether gets into the intake air stream, you will know it!

I did, and it didn't change.

 

[tron67j]

Maybe a bad EGR valve? Disconnect the line and while engine is running apply suction to the line. If engine idle changes you might have a bad valve. Or PCC valve?

 

[Ken226]

Does a 2017 5.7 even have an egr valve? I'm assuming you meant PCV valve.

Take a look in and around the PCV valve, on the small chance that something is broken in there.

Also, it's worth taking a look at the hoses to the purge solenoid and checking the solenoid.

 

[NCRaineman]

Have you filled up recently? Problem could be as simple as bad gas. Recently experienced a similar issue with our truck. Had to have the tank drained and fuel lines purged. Put in clean fuel and ran a bottle of fuel system cleaner through it. Now she's running like a champ again.

 

[Curmudgeon]

Have you filled up recently? Problem could be as simple as bad gas. Recently experienced a similar issue with our truck. Had to have the tank drained and fuel lines purged. Put in clean fuel and ran a bottle of fuel system cleaner through it. Now she's running like a champ again.

This happened to me twice, on 2 different cars, but the symptoms were a little
different from the OP.

In both cars with bad gas, idle was not a problem, only when I tried to drive did it run rough or die, even worse the harder I tried to accelerate.

The assumption was water/crud from the bottom of the gas station tank. The cheapest bottle of "Dry-Gas" I could find solved the problem as the alcohol mixed
with the water allowing it to burn off.

One car was NA with carburetor, the other was port injection, if that matters, and both were 30-40 years ago.

 

[NCRaineman]

In both cars with bad gas, idle was not a problem, only when I tried to drive did it run rough or die, even worse the harder I tried to accelerate.

Ours didn't want to cold start or idle well, but once the engine had a little heat in it the engine ran OK. I believe that's because we always run 89 in the truck, which is a mix of regular and premium. If it had been straight regular I'm willing to bet it would not have run at all.

 

[Trey1123]

Found the issue, i had accidentally run one of the water pump bolts through the bottom of the intake manifold. Patched it up and now running great

 

[diymirage]

Found the issue, i had accidentally run one of the water pump bolts through the bottom of the intake manifold. Patched it up and now running great

that reminds me of the LAs, you put the water pump bolts in the wrong hole there and you could poke it right into the cylinder wall

glad your fix wasnt quite that bad

 

[Wild one]

Found the issue, i had accidentally run one of the water pump bolts through the bottom of the intake manifold. Patched it up and now running great

That should have shown up if you'd sprayed starting fluid around the bottom side of the throttle body.If it was sucking air into the intake you apparently didn't hit the whole manifold with starting fluid

 

[TJP440]

that reminds me of the LAs, you put the water pump bolts in the wrong hole there and you could poke it right into the cylinder wall

glad your fix wasnt quite that bad

years ago I bought a freshly rebuilt 340 for 75.00 because someone did that exact thing. Couldn't pass it up. Forged pistons, cam etc. all was new