HEMI Life Expectancy

[Marshall]

2022 RAM 1500 BigHorn 4WD CC 6-4 Bed 3.21 Rear = 16k miles

I plan on keeping this for as long as i last since i am 65.

Oil changed at 2k , 8k , 15k

I will be changing the oil every 5k from now on with Full Synthetic Mobil 1

What else should I do for my RAM to preserve the Motor, Trans, Differentials???

Your recommendations are needed as I previously had the long lasting reliable Tundra.
I have owned them all = Ford, GM, RAM, Tundra - both gas and diesel but never kept them beyond 80k

Thank You

You young guys worry to much,
Change the oil, keep it clean, don’t idle around.
I had 3 or 4? Never had anything go out other the battery crapped out at only 10 yrs , bummer.
You hear more horror stories here, because if you don’t have problems then chances you never hear about it,
I find 3/4 pedal works very well with the 8 sp and 3.9 gears
The Mounties discuss that with me at odd times, but I don’t hear very good anymore, as she would say.

 

[Valkyrie68]

I bought a 2016 1500 with the HEMI in December 2025 with 89K and it’s been great. I put on retractable steps, Fox 2.0 leveling kit, changed fluids and plugs. Rides like butter and I just love the interior. The Uconnect is a really solid system. I have no interest in a new vehicle, this thing is perfect for my needs.

 

[Bighorn_Brown]

Thanks for the info. Might be a good idea for me to do this mod. Gonna get hot in Arizona this summer. The trip to Grand Canyon from the valley might be a good reason to get this done.

 

[Kickboxer]

Many experienced engine rebuilder will tell you that you're throwing away $$$ on synthetic oil changes at 5K mile intervals. I know of one Volvo rebuilder that runs Mobil 1 in his personal vehicles, with 25K mile intervals. Save your money for components that will/do fail or wear regularly.

Don't do it.........changing oil at 5,000 miles is
a good idea in any vehicle. Who cares about what some Volvo rebuilder does.

 

[Daf62757]

Not sure if someone else posted about this, but Valvoline makes a brand of synthetic oil called Restore and Protect that literally cleans the internal engine of all carbon deposits after 3 oil changes. The Motor Oil Geek did a few YouTube videos on this and has lab testing and visual evidence to support the claim. I changed my oil with the R&P and at around 4,500 miles, the oil was jet black from all the carbon deposits that it removed. It is only a few more dollars more than regular synthetic oil and I plan to use it going forward. If you are planning on keeping your RAM forever, which a lot of us over 65 do, this might be a great oil to switch to.

 

[Zoe Saldana]

Not sure if someone else posted about this, but Valvoline makes a brand of synthetic oil called Restore and Protect that literally cleans the internal engine of all carbon deposits after 3 oil changes. The Motor Oil Geek did a few YouTube videos on this and has lab testing and visual evidence to support the claim. I changed my oil with the R&P and at around 4,500 miles, the oil was jet black from all the carbon deposits that it removed. It is only a few more dollars more than regular synthetic oil and I plan to use it going forward. If you are planning on keeping your RAM forever, which a lot of us over 65 do, this might be a great oil to switch to.

I use PUP 0w40 for my 6.4l and change the oil at 6k intervals.
It looks black translucent when I drain it.

What did your oil look like before the R&P when you drained it?

And I haver seen good reports about R&P also.

 

[7091ram]

2022 RAM 1500 BigHorn 4WD CC 6-4 Bed 3.21 Rear = 16k miles

I plan on keeping this for as long as i last since i am 65.

Oil changed at 2k , 8k , 15k

I will be changing the oil every 5k from now on with Full Synthetic Mobil 1

What else should I do for my RAM to preserve the Motor, Trans, Differentials???

Your recommendations are needed as I previously had the long lasting reliable Tundra.
I have owned them all = Ford, GM, RAM, Tundra - both gas and diesel but never kept them beyond 80k

Thank You

I've got a 2014 1500 . 2477578 miles on it same motor and trans .I keep it serviced and my woman drives it like she stole it. I drive either my 70 w250 or my 89 Cummins. No complaints with any of them . At 68 years old I won't be buying a new one.

 

[Motorpirate]

'08 1500, 245K miles, still runs great and no leaks!!

 

[David Tree]

@Wild one

Not sure if someone else posted about this, but Valvoline makes a brand of synthetic oil called Restore and Protect that literally cleans the internal engine of all carbon deposits after 3 oil changes. The Motor Oil Geek did a few YouTube videos on this and has lab testing and visual evidence to support the claim. I changed my oil with the R&P and at around 4,500 miles, the oil was jet black from all the carbon deposits that it removed. It is only a few more dollars more than regular synthetic oil and I plan to use it going forward. If you are planning on keeping your RAM forever, which a lot of us over 65 do, this might be a great oil to switch to.

Thank you for th FYI

Keep em coming

Anyone install a HELLCAT Oil Pump on their 5.7L HEMI ???

 

[David Tree]

@RamDiver @Wild one and all

Anyone install a HELLCAT Oil Pump on their 5.7 Hemi ???

 

[Wild one]

@RamDiver @Wild one and all

Anyone install a HELLCAT Oil Pump on their 5.7 Hemi ???

It's not needed,the stock pump is more then adequate. A high volumn pump still doesn't put more oil onto the crucial parts,the cam lobes and lifter rollers,they are strictly oiled by cranksplash.You'll accomplish more by turning the idle rpm up to at least 750 rpm,and driving it a bit on the aggressive side. That's a myth started by Re-ignited,and even he admits he's not sure it does anything to promote cam/lifter life.

 

[RamDiver]

@RamDiver @Wild one and all

Anyone install a HELLCAT Oil Pump on their 5.7 Hemi ???

As mentioned, cranking the RPM up is much more useful, but to do it electronically, you will need an unlocked PCM and to have your truck tuned.

Another option I've read about a couple of times was installing a bracket with a threaded rod or set screw on the accelerator pedal. This seems to work adequately.

I have some ideas I plan to explore, but they will have to wait for the cooler fall weather when the bugs aren't so ravenous.

.

 

[Wild one]

As mentioned, cranking the RPM up is much more useful, but to do it electronically, you will need an unlocked PCM and to have your truck tuned.

Another option I've read about a couple of times was installing a bracket with a threaded rod or set screw on the accelerator pedal. This seems to work adequately.

I have some ideas I plan to explore, but they will have to wait for the cooler fall weather when the bugs aren't so ravenous.

.

You guys can keep those flying gators down east,as they haven't struck us out here yet

 

[RamDiver]

You guys can keep those flying gators down east,as they haven't struck us out here yet

I recall being chewed in Alberta and BC, but nothing like where I live. There's an enormous swamp about a mile away.

2009 & 2010 were much worse than recent years. We used to park the vehicles and run, no joke.

Black flies in May, then mosquitoes, deer flies and horse flies. That's summer, until about October, most years.

I laugh at city mosquitoes, they're miniature compared to the local ones.

The deer flies are now approaching an unbearable state for walking, not quite yet though.

When you get 2 or 3 of them going at you for 10 minutes or more, that's when I pause walking until later in the season.

After the deer flies, the horse flies start for about a month or more.

.

 

[David Tree]

It's not needed,the stock pump is more then adequate. A high volumn pump still doesn't put more oil onto the crucial parts,the cam lobes and lifter rollers,they are strictly oiled by cranksplash.You'll accomplish more by turning the idle rpm up to at least 750 rpm,and driving it a bit on the aggressive side. That's a myth started by Re-ignited,and even he admits he's not sure it does anything to promote cam/lifter life.

Yeah, i watched the video on it by 'Re-ignited'.

Interesting that he says when you install the HC pump it shuts off MDS.

 

[MrBonez]

I recently swapped out the thermostat in mine to a 180 from a 203 and it's doing good so far.
Engine temps are approaching (Just not reaching ) 200 while driving on the interstate and that's OK, it's when you see them topping 220 (And I did) while doing the same thing is when you have to say "Hmmmmm" with all the things about a hemi dropping a valve seat when they get so hot.

Hemi tick is one thing but dropping valve seats is just as bad or worse... Esp when you know it's a "On the spot and done" kind of deal (Breakdown) when that happens, wherever that may be and I ain't going there.

Mind you this one is used to pull a trailer on occasion and that combined with already higher operating temps present made it a thing I had to do - Esp for this time of year.

So far it hangs around 192-195 while driving under the same conditions, stays lower (186-190) if in town or driving on regular roadways. I haven't had to pull a trailer since I changed it but that's coming later, around the first of August for sure..... Right up the interstate and I don't need it running even hotter than before under those conditions.

I still have the 203 around if it's needed later and can easily pop it back in if it comes down to it for cooler/colder weather driving..... Or just grab a 193 and see if that doesn't work out year-round.

 

[stevieb92]

I recently swapped out the thermostat in mine to a 180 from a 203 and it's doing good so far.
Engine temps are approaching (Just not reaching ) 200 while driving on the interstate and that's OK, it's when you see them topping 220 (And I did) while doing the same thing is when you have to say "Hmmmmm" with all the things about a hemi dropping a valve seat when they get so hot.

Hemi tick is one thing but dropping valve seats is just as bad or worse... Esp when you know it's a "On the spot and done" kind of deal (Breakdown) when that happens, wherever that may be and I ain't going there.

Mind you this one is used to pull a trailer on occasion and that combined with already higher operating temps present made it a thing I had to do - Esp for this time of year.

So far it hangs around 192-195 while driving under the same conditions, stays lower (186-190) if in town or driving on regular roadways. I haven't had to pull a trailer since I changed it but that's coming later, around the first of August for sure..... Right up the interstate and I don't need it running even hotter than before under those conditions.

I still have the 203 around if it's needed later and can easily pop it back in if it comes down to it for cooler/colder weather driving..... Or just grab a 193 and see if that doesn't work out year-round.

A few months after picking up my '24 Rebel in Jan 2024, I swapped the OEM thermostat for a 180 Stant. Until about a month ago, it had been running about the same temperatures as you. I noticed it was running hot one day while on a bit of a road trip. The temp actually reached 243 or so. I was not towing and had a few things in the bed, but it was running this hot empty as well. The ambient temp was about 60F, so there is no way it should have been running that hot. I dropped the windows and put the heat to max to pull some heat from the coolant. The next day, I replaced the thermostat with a new 180 and all is well again. I've used Stant thermostats for decades in various vehicles and never had a problem until this. I keep a spare on hand now. A good reminder to always pay attention to your gauges.

 

[dieselscout80]

As mentioned, cranking the RPM up is much more useful, but to do it electronically, you will need an unlocked PCM and to have your truck tuned.

Another option I've read about a couple of times was installing a bracket with a threaded rod or set screw on the accelerator pedal. This seems to work adequately.

I have some ideas I plan to explore, but they will have to wait for the cooler fall weather when the bugs aren't so ravenous.

.

Got a picture or link to this setup?

 

[MrBonez]

A few months after picking up my '24 Rebel in Jan 2024, I swapped the OEM thermostat for a 180 Stant. Until about a month ago, it had been running about the same temperatures as you. I noticed it was running hot one day while on a bit of a road trip. The temp actually reached 243 or so. I was not towing and had a few things in the bed, but it was running this hot empty as well. The ambient temp was about 60F, so there is no way it should have been running that hot. I dropped the windows and put the heat to max to pull some heat from the coolant. The next day, I replaced the thermostat with a new 180 and all is well again. I've used Stant thermostats for decades in various vehicles and never had a problem until this. I keep a spare on hand now. A good reminder to always pay attention to your gauges.

It's good to hear you didn't have any engine problems after it got that hot.
I've got a Bully Dog module that lets me know what temps it's getting to by the numbers, not simply by a gauge-range reading so I know just how hot it's getting.

Any manufacturer can have the occasional one that's "Off", so I'd stick with Stant thermostats because I too know their quality seems consistent overall.

I do keep an eye on how things are doing and if there is a problem I'll see it.

 

[Wild one]

Yeah, i watched the video on it by 'Re-ignited'.

Interesting that he says when you install the HC pump it shuts off MDS.

I think you must have misread what he said,as the oil pump won't shut off mds.The mds is controlled by electrically run solenoids