AzRamLover
Senior Member
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2014
- Posts
- 433
- Reaction score
- 100
- Ram Year
- 2014
- Engine
- Hemi 5.7
Can't seem to find any posts on this. Could I please get some help from the exterior electrical wiring gurus here?
Problem:
Solution:
Questions:
0) Is this a dumb idea? Don't know much about this so feel free to school me here. Also if there is a better/faster/cheaper/easier solution, I'm all ears.
1) Given the light duty alternator's rating of 180amps, what is the maximum safe current draw? By "safe" I mean no fire hazards or dramatically shortened alternator life.
2) Given the max safe current draw in (1) above (let's assume 100 amps for now), is a 100-amp fuse on the +12V cable OK?
3) Given the huge thickness discrepancy between the +12V rail (0-gauge welding cable) and smaller wiring (e.g., 12-, 14-, and 16-gauge), what is the right way to "tap into" the rail using the smaller wire?
The usual automotive environmental conditions of high temperature variance, vibration, moisture, etc. concern me.
Thanks y'all!
Problem:
I want to run several high-draw devices from the back of the truck.
Examples: a DC refrigerator, a pure sine wave inverter, power tools, construction site LED flood lights.
Solution:
Run fused, 0-gauge, wire loomed, welding cables (one positive, one negative) from the battery down the top of the driver's side frame rail.
- Wire any accessories into the +12V "rail" and ground "rail," using smaller, properly loomed and fused wires.
- The fuses on the smaller wires would be much more reasonable; e.g. 5-amp, 10-amp, 30-amp, etc.
Questions:
0) Is this a dumb idea? Don't know much about this so feel free to school me here. Also if there is a better/faster/cheaper/easier solution, I'm all ears.
1) Given the light duty alternator's rating of 180amps, what is the maximum safe current draw? By "safe" I mean no fire hazards or dramatically shortened alternator life.
2) Given the max safe current draw in (1) above (let's assume 100 amps for now), is a 100-amp fuse on the +12V cable OK?
3) Given the huge thickness discrepancy between the +12V rail (0-gauge welding cable) and smaller wiring (e.g., 12-, 14-, and 16-gauge), what is the right way to "tap into" the rail using the smaller wire?
The usual automotive environmental conditions of high temperature variance, vibration, moisture, etc. concern me.
Thanks y'all!