Something killing my truck

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

deadbroke

Junior Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2025
Posts
9
Reaction score
6
Location
new mexico
Ram Year
2006
Engine
5.7
I have a 2006 mega cab 5.7 and have been driving around for years with 3 batteries and a 240 amp alternator no problem. Just recently upgraded to a 370 amp alternator and have been having problems. As soon as I installed it I started getting voltage swings to where it looked like the alternator was off. i had the batteries checked and all 3 were bad.

I get an obd2 reader to check rpms and I think my rpms were too low to ignite the alternator so I disconnected the batteries until I got a new one. It sat like this overnight, in the meantime I changed the throttle body, the pcv, and the air filter. The battery came in and I installed it and then wired it up. I wanted to install the air intake charge sensor so while the battery was hooked up I went to the store and bought the sensor and came back to install it and as I was putting it together I bumped the alternator with my forearm and it burned me. Used a meter and it was hot but I didn't start the truck.

OK so something is wrong I disconnect the external voltage regulator thinking the excitement wire is causing it but it still kept overheating so reconnect the alternator and i start the truck drive it around for a few minutes everything seemed fine even rpms then pull into my driveway and I disconnect the negative to stop it from overheating. I spent the night looking at parasitic draw and then go out the next day and take a reading I was showing 2.1 amps between the batt neg and negative runs. I completely disconnect the alternator thinking bad diodes check again and still nothing. do more research and remove the starter, still showing so I take all the extra wires that I ran from the batt positive and only keep the single original batt positive cable that goes to the tipm so I can rule out my added wiring, same draw. I take out each fuse one by one and don't notice a change, then I take them all out and see my load drop to 1.7-1.8 amps. Now I took all the connectors off except one still got 1.7 ish amps and then rotated to another single plug same thing.

At this point I'm frustrated and I disconnected the hood light and all my radio stuff in the dash and all my wires to amps no change. Then I took my dash off completely along with removing the hvac blower fan, disconnecting the a/c pump connectors, and the throttle body connector, thinking new part new problem, and still no change.

I have had a fuel pump high voltage code for some time now and I think it might be the fuel pump except for i had everything removed with the connectors and I doubt the fuel pump is wired into two different connectors on the back of the tipm.

Some background I have a klein 810 meter I am checking with, I had a 240 mechman alt that I changed to 370 alt with a 6g regulator that I externally controlled so the OE plug was left disconnected, I've had a fuel pump voltage high code on the truck for months, and I have led headlights and taillights. the one headlight isn't working on low beams on the left side unless I turn on high beams and sometimes I have to turn them off then on to get it to light up. I also have a viper alarm wired in with window control but no antenna because the windshield guys damaged it.

I have had a double din head unit with a pac interface module and the alarm for about 9 years. The led lights about 3 or 4 years changed because lights kept going out on taillights. I'm lost on this the last thing I'm thinking is to buy a tipm and swap it in see if it changes anything. does anyone have any ideas?
 

Attachments

  • 20251010_171316.jpg
    20251010_171316.jpg
    86.6 KB · Views: 6
  • 20251010_171321.jpg
    20251010_171321.jpg
    78.5 KB · Views: 6
  • 20251010_171325.jpg
    20251010_171325.jpg
    70.5 KB · Views: 5
Last edited:

Sandevino

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2020
Posts
1,310
Reaction score
1,844
Location
North Texas
Ram Year
2023
Engine
HEMI 5.7 eTorque
Plus one to swapping the old alternator back in to see if the problem goes away. If it does, check to see if your stock regulator can handle the massive current jump and if not, replace with one that can.

This topic frequently comes up on car audio forums.
 
OP
OP
D

deadbroke

Junior Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2025
Posts
9
Reaction score
6
Location
new mexico
Ram Year
2006
Engine
5.7
So that would fix the overheat but what about the draw that will kill my new battery. part of buying my new alternator was returning my old one so I would need to buy a new alternator on topof this one.
 

Rlaf75

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Posts
1,808
Reaction score
2,382
Location
East Hartford CT
Ram Year
2021 Bighorn
So that would fix the overheat but what about the draw that will kill my new battery. part of buying my new alternator was returning my old one so I would need to buy a new alternator on topof this one.
Did you have the draw on the battery before you changed the alternator? Just because the alternator is new doesn't necessarily mean its good. Return the new alternator and see if they have another one. New parts can be defective
 
OP
OP
D

deadbroke

Junior Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2025
Posts
9
Reaction score
6
Location
new mexico
Ram Year
2006
Engine
5.7
I had it tested and it turns out it's good. here is where I was at this morning. even with all this disconnected and all the fuses it still pulls almost 2 amps
 

Attachments

  • 20251014_082132.jpg
    20251014_082132.jpg
    100.7 KB · Views: 6
  • 20251014_082154.jpg
    20251014_082154.jpg
    100.8 KB · Views: 6
  • 20251014_082147.jpg
    20251014_082147.jpg
    125.2 KB · Views: 6

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
210,997
Posts
3,060,837
Members
171,039
Latest member
Reticle918
Back
Top