Homelink issue related to LED light issue?

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Hopeless Turtle

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I have 2 problems with my overhead panel that I suspect might be related. First the LED lights come on quite dim. I know this has been addressed by some with replacements, but my lights do brighten very rarely so it would seem they work. Second, my HomeLink buttons rarely work. They programmed fine but when I press the button, I see a message on the gauge that they are transmitting but nothing happens. Could this be a voltage issue with the overhead panel? That would explain the dim LEDs and potentially the nonexistent signal strength of the HomeLink transmitter, assuming it's run off the same power source.

A related note is the back LED light on the ceiling also is quite dim, but that light is likely run from the panel too, a wire across the headboard would be my approach and Ram likely thought so as well. The lights on the underside of the back seats however are quite bright, and I'll bet they are the same LED but a different power source.
 

mdc1990zr1

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I have 2 problems with my overhead panel that I suspect might be related. First the LED lights come on quite dim. I know this has been addressed by some with replacements, but my lights do brighten very rarely so it would seem they work. Second, my HomeLink buttons rarely work. They programmed fine but when I press the button, I see a message on the gauge that they are transmitting but nothing happens. Could this be a voltage issue with the overhead panel? That would explain the dim LEDs and potentially the nonexistent signal strength of the HomeLink transmitter, assuming it's run off the same power source.

A related note is the back LED light on the ceiling also is quite dim, but that light is likely run from the panel too, a wire across the headboard would be my approach and Ram likely thought so as well. The lights on the underside of the back seats however are quite bright, and I'll bet they are the same LED but a different power source.
Older garage door openers only required you to program the remote to the vehicle and that would be it. Newer, security-type openers require a two step process. First you program the remote to the vehicle (hence the button is programmed). Second, you need to program the car to the opener. This usually requires you to find the program, sometimes referred to as a "learn" button on the opener to finish the operation. You will, most likely, need to get on a step-ladder to access the button and it will time out if not done in a speedy manner. This may require two people to do. What is important here is the garage door manufactures instructions for the program button. Usually, a one second push of the button puts it into program mode. However, pushing the button for 3 or 4 seconds wipes the memory of everything programmed into that opener. The programming of the car (Homelink) button will be in the vehicle manufacturers owners manual. This will tell you where you have to point the remote. Most cars are pointed to the Homelink mirror, some Audi's use the four rings in the front of the car. You will need fresh batteries in the remote and some vehicles, like Mercedes, will not let you use a universal remote to program, you must find the original remote. Some vehicles around 2008-2012 will not program without a bridge or gateway. The garage door opener manufacturer can tell you if the car is on the list, and they also have a toll free number to call and a dedicated line to help you program your opener to your car. I highly recommend using their help.
 
OP
OP
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Hopeless Turtle

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I appreciate you copying and pasting basic homelink instructions but I understand how it works. Also, the problem occurs with both static code remotes and rolling code remotes, both programmed properly.
 

Socalramfan

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Older garage door openers only required you to program the remote to the vehicle and that would be it. Newer, security-type openers require a two step process. First you program the remote to the vehicle (hence the button is programmed). Second, you need to program the car to the opener. This usually requires you to find the program, sometimes referred to as a "learn" button on the opener to finish the operation. You will, most likely, need to get on a step-ladder to access the button and it will time out if not done in a speedy manner. This may require two people to do. What is important here is the garage door manufactures instructions for the program button. Usually, a one second push of the button puts it into program mode. However, pushing the button for 3 or 4 seconds wipes the memory of everything programmed into that opener. The programming of the car (Homelink) button will be in the vehicle manufacturers owners manual. This will tell you where you have to point the remote. Most cars are pointed to the Homelink mirror, some Audi's use the four rings in the front of the car. You will need fresh batteries in the remote and some vehicles, like Mercedes, will not let you use a universal remote to program, you must find the original remote. Some vehicles around 2008-2012 will not program without a bridge or gateway. The garage door opener manufacturer can tell you if the car is on the list, and they also have a toll free number to call and a dedicated line to help you program your opener to your car. I highly recommend using their help.

Good write up :waytogo:
 

nlambert182

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TBH... they may be two separate issues.

I replaced my dim overhead lights. Solved that issue. It's not that uncommon in the Rams.

The homelink in my 2016 and my current 2018 are spotty at times. I even went as far as to replace the garage door opener.

What I eventually learned was that I was running LED bulbs in the door opener and the garage overhead lights and they were causing interference with my homelink. It never happened with the remotes that came with the opener and less frequently with my wife's Expedition and Charger (but she also parked right at the door).

I swapped all of the garage LEDs out for plain old incandescent bulbs and the issue got better. I then extended the antenna for the opener to the outside of the door and it improved reception a little more. However, there are still rare times where the homelink on my Ram may not open the door, but I park a good 20 ft away from it. Overall changing the bulbs and extending the antenna helped quite a lot.
 

RamInfo

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FWIW, I’ve had two occasions where my Homelink buttons went erratic or non-working. Both times the issue was resolved by clearing all the Homelink buttons and starting the programming all over from scratch, which unfortunately meant doing so for both vehicles. But it’s not a difficult or lengthy process.

best,
DG
 

GTyankee

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I am curious,
I carry a garage door remote in my Ram & another in my Harley Trike

On the occasion, the Homelink button does not work, i just reach into my arm rest & use the garage door opener.
If neither of them work, i know a car took out a power pole, or the Power Company did the rotating power cut off thing

When your Homelink does not work, does your Garage Door Opener work
 

Spree

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My Homelink does the same thing. Sometime I have to push it 2 or 3 times. The dash does say "Transmitting". It always opens though, just sometimes you have to push it more than once. I also have LED bulbs in the opener.
 

GTyankee

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Some LEDs are compatible with the Homelink & the Rams FOB
other LEDs are cheap & interfere with those functions
 

Dean2

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TBH... they may be two separate issues.

I replaced my dim overhead lights. Solved that issue. It's not that uncommon in the Rams.

The homelink in my 2016 and my current 2018 are spotty at times. I even went as far as to replace the garage door opener.

What I eventually learned was that I was running LED bulbs in the door opener and the garage overhead lights and they were causing interference with my homelink. It never happened with the remotes that came with the opener and less frequently with my wife's Expedition and Charger (but she also parked right at the door).

I swapped all of the garage LEDs out for plain old incandescent bulbs and the issue got better. I then extended the antenna for the opener to the outside of the door and it improved reception a little more. However, there are still rare times where the homelink on my Ram may not open the door, but I park a good 20 ft away from it. Overall changing the bulbs and extending the antenna helped quite a lot.
SPOT on! LED lights mess with a lot of garage door openers, not just the Homelink version. Had that same problem using the hand held remotes too.

The other issue in Ram and Jeep is you have to hold the button for a 1000-1 1000-2 count. They work far better than if you just stab the button quickly.
 
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I have 2 problems with my overhead panel that I suspect might be related. First the LED lights come on quite dim. I know this has been addressed by some with replacements, but my lights do brighten very rarely so it would seem they work. Second, my HomeLink buttons rarely work. They programmed fine but when I press the button, I see a message on the gauge that they are transmitting but nothing happens. Could this be a voltage issue with the overhead panel? That would explain the dim LEDs and potentially the nonexistent signal strength of the HomeLink transmitter, assuming it's run off the same power source.

A related note is the back LED light on the ceiling also is quite dim, but that light is likely run from the panel too, a wire across the headboard would be my approach and Ram likely thought so as well. The lights on the underside of the back seats however are quite bright, and I'll bet they are the same LED but a different power source.
I have a newer home link system with the web based application. I have similar problems, but have validated that it is NOT related to LED lighting. It is totally intermittent so I only use the Home Link button if it works, otherwise I use my "Smart Phone and/or Watch". I have had this with both a 2016 2500 Laramie and now my 2018 3500 Laramie. It is what it is and RAM and/or Chrysler is not interested in fixing the problem.
 

RamInfo

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I’ve never had any luck using the watch, but when my Homelink was acting up I sometimes used my smartphone to open or close the door. (Dialing…”Hello dear, can you hit the button by the door and open/close the overhead?”) :cool:

best,
DG
 

Marshall

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I just nicely up graded ( or not) from a flip phone, I have not had trouble with home link, works from 200 ft or so, I have one led light and one reg light, maybe I should go back to the old standby.
I am running a Sear belt drive opener, and in wife unit just one of the opener remote, that one you have to be close for it to work

re the overhead lights, Mine will change from bright to dim after you get out, then shut off , with the door open, maybe see if its is possible to prob the voltage with a meter, I presume it should be 12V.
 
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