Hot Oil when towing

[BennyL]

First post here. 2020 Ram1500 5.7 3.21 15K Tow a 25' 6000 lb. camper
All stock except dual filter relocation kit and Caulk transmission heater block.
PUP 5W30 and Fram Synthetic endurance filters
I was hoping that with the installation of the dual filter relocation kit the oil would be cooler than last year while towing.
It might have helped by 5 degrees. The dual filters are mounted on the crossmember beneath the front of the engine. Maybe that area gets air flow, but going under there and looking around it seems very closed off.
From reading on this forum it seems like adding a cooler to decrease the oil temp would reduce the oil pressure, possibly harming the engine.
It seems like a lower thermostat would only delay the high temp.
And I might take out some shutters. I read about changing the fan, seems that this can be tricky.
I would be happier if the oil temp. were lower.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
coolant 213
trans 154
oil 244 got up to 256
pressure 50
speed 60
outside temp 83

 

[Jane S]

First post here. 2020 Ram1500 5.7 3.21 15K Tow a 25' 6000 lb. camper
All stock except dual filter relocation kit and Caulk transmission heater block.
PUP 5W30 and Fram Synthetic endurance filters
I was hoping that with the installation of the dual filter relocation kit the oil would be cooler than last year while towing.
It might have helped by 5 degrees. The dual filters are mounted on the crossmember beneath the front of the engine. Maybe that area gets air flow, but going under there and looking around it seems very closed off.
From reading on this forum it seems like adding a cooler to decrease the oil temp would reduce the oil pressure, possibly harming the engine.
It seems like a lower thermostat would only delay the high temp.
And I might take out some shutters. I read about changing the fan, seems that this can be tricky.
I would be happier if the oil temp. were lower.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
coolant 213
trans 154
oil 244 got up to 256
pressure 50
speed 60
outside temp 83

"it seems like adding a cooler to decrease the oil temp would reduce the oil pressure, possibly harming the engine."
That's a possibility. There several factors e.g. size of lines in/out

Understanding Oil Coolers - NASA Speed News Magazine

When engine output rises beyond a certain threshold per liter of displacement, an oil cooler becomes more important, critical even. There is a lot to the selection and installation of an oil cooler, so to find out more, we caught up with Zac Beals, a technical sales representative with Setrab...

nasaspeed.news

 

[Tulecreeper]

Well, right off the bat I'd have to ask where you got that 15K tow capacity number on a 1500. I purposely bought my 2500 with the set-up I have to get that same number, which is maximum for my truck. To start, I say you have the wrong rear end for towing anywhere near that amount. A 3.21 axle is mostly for just highway driving. And a quick look at RAM 1500 capacity says that you could get ~12000# with the proper set-up, but the 3.21 axle isn't included in that.

 

[JHoward]

First post here. 2020 Ram1500 5.7 3.21 15K Tow a 25' 6000 lb. camper
All stock except dual filter relocation kit and Caulk transmission heater block.
PUP 5W30 and Fram Synthetic endurance filters
I was hoping that with the installation of the dual filter relocation kit the oil would be cooler than last year while towing.
It might have helped by 5 degrees. The dual filters are mounted on the crossmember beneath the front of the engine. Maybe that area gets air flow, but going under there and looking around it seems very closed off.
From reading on this forum it seems like adding a cooler to decrease the oil temp would reduce the oil pressure, possibly harming the engine.
It seems like a lower thermostat would only delay the high temp.
And I might take out some shutters. I read about changing the fan, seems that this can be tricky.
I would be happier if the oil temp. were lower.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
coolant 213
trans 154
oil 244 got up to 256
pressure 50
speed 60
outside temp 83

I also installed the Caulk transmission t-stat bypass valve a few weeks ago and removed all of the center AGS shutters, leaving the top and bottom rows to keep from triggering the CEL. All temps are better and more stable than before.

The coolent(~203°)and oil(~201°)temps have come down a few degrees, but I'm more pleased with the transmission temp drop ~40°. Before the trans temps hovered ~187-197° on an 80° outside day temp and now after the transmission t-stat bypass its ~ 146-152°. It's now more stable and is much better.

I may install an 180° coolent thermostat so that that would open much sooner than the stock 203° t-stat.

I don't tow and I won't be of much more help for you, but Imo your going in the right direction with simple mods to reduce the heat temps.

 

[ThunderMug95]

Well, right off the bat I'd have to ask where you got that 15K tow capacity number on a 1500. I purposely bought my 2500 with the set-up I have to get that same number, which is maximum for my truck. To start, I say you have the wrong rear end for towing anywhere near that amount. A 3.21 axle is mostly for just highway driving. And a quick look at RAM 1500 capacity says that you could get ~12000# with the proper set-up, but the 3.21 axle isn't included in that.

I think the OP was referring to 15k as his current mileage on the truck. Thats the way I read it at least.

 

[Tulecreeper]

I think the OP was referring to 15k as his current mileage on the truck. Thats the way I read it at least.

My mistake, then...and apologies to the OP.

 

[BennyL]

I was not clear on my post. Current mileage is 15K
According to Ram website my truck can tow 8190lb. and trailer dry weight is 5411,without water and whatever else I put in it.
The site also says that my Ram payload is 1749.
With my gear in the truck and trailer, I don't think I am pushing the weight limit, however I will take it to a scale.
I would like for my oil to be cooler, so I think my next step might be to research coolers
Thanks to everyone for your input

 

[ramffml]

I was not clear on my post. Current mileage is 15K
According to Ram website my truck can tow 8190lb. and trailer dry weight is 5411,without water and whatever else I put in it.
The site also says that my Ram payload is 1749.
With my gear in the truck and trailer, I don't think I am pushing the weight limit, however I will take it to a scale.
I would like for my oil to be cooler, so I think my next step might be to research coolers
Thanks to everyone for your input

Your truck should have no trouble pulling that.

I posted this just recently in a similar thread. In order from easy-to-harder, you can do this:
- remove all but 2 rows of the slats in you active grill shutters (you need two rows to hold the silly thing together, I kept top and bottom)
- replace thermostat with 180
- adjust fan to turn on much sooner
- add oil cooler with built-in thermostat

If you hurry, you can pm @caulk04 and buy a transmission upgrade too, just a little piece that you replace in your transmission that makes it run much cooler, there is a good thread on it here:
https://www.ramforum.com/threads/8hp70-heater-bypass.172998/

The first 3 in that list are all pretty doable (I've done the first two, looking into third option now), and will increase the time it takes to hit peak temps. It may be all you need in your case?

 

[ThunderMug95]

Your truck should have no trouble pulling that.

I posted this just recently in a similar thread. In order from easy-to-harder, you can do this:
- remove all but 2 rows of the slats in you active grill shutters (you need two rows to hold the silly thing together, I kept top and bottom)
- replace thermostat with 180
- adjust fan to turn on much sooner
- add oil cooler with built-in thermostat

If you hurry, you can pm @caulk04 and buy a transmission upgrade too, just a little piece that you replace in your transmission that makes it run much cooler, there is a good thread on it here:
https://www.ramforum.com/threads/8hp70-heater-bypass.172998/

The first 3 in that list are all pretty doable (I've done the first two, looking into third option now), and will increase the time it takes to hit peak temps. It may be all you need in your case?

Yes, I have one of Caulk’s bypass’s I am going to install maybe this weekend when I do the the third drain and fill on my trans.
The Ags can be removed if you drill the motor case where there is a molding dimple and run a small diam but long bolt with nuts. It acts as a limiter for the actuator arm. Fools it into thinking its throwing the shutters. Then deposit the whole unit in an appropriate receptacle…

 

[ramffml]

Yes, I have one of Caulk’s bypass’s I am going to install maybe this weekend when I do the the third drain and fill on my trans.
The Ags can be removed if you drill the motor case where there is a molding dimple and run a small diam but long bolt with nuts. It acts as a limiter for the actuator arm. Fools it into thinking its throwing the shutters. Then deposit the whole unit in an appropriate receptacle…

I read somewhere once that 5th gens work a little different with AGS? That the easiest was to keep it in and strip out the slats, but if somebody here as removed a 5th gen AGS completely with no codes and nothing else to purchase then I'm game!

 

[ThunderMug95]

I read somewhere once that 5th gens work a little different with AGS? That the easiest was to keep it in and strip out the slats, but if somebody here as removed a 5th gen AGS completely with no codes and nothing else to purchase then I'm game!

Lol! The codes are thrown by that arm. I ran like you with only the top and bottom slats, I had a Vararam. When I got my Hemifever tune, I had him nullify it. So my motor is ziptied to the frame.

 

[Joseph Godvin]

I would worry more on Transmission Temps before Engine Oil........Trans temp looks good !!

 

[PaleFlyer]

First post here. 2020 Ram1500 5.7 3.21 15K Tow a 25' 6000 lb. camper
All stock except dual filter relocation kit and Caulk transmission heater block.
PUP 5W30 and Fram Synthetic endurance filters
I was hoping that with the installation of the dual filter relocation kit the oil would be cooler than last year while towing.
It might have helped by 5 degrees. The dual filters are mounted on the crossmember beneath the front of the engine. Maybe that area gets air flow, but going under there and looking around it seems very closed off.
From reading on this forum it seems like adding a cooler to decrease the oil temp would reduce the oil pressure, possibly harming the engine.
It seems like a lower thermostat would only delay the high temp.
And I might take out some shutters. I read about changing the fan, seems that this can be tricky.
I would be happier if the oil temp. were lower.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
coolant 213
trans 154
oil 244 got up to 256
pressure 50
speed 60
outside temp 83

Cooler should only decrease oil pressure if the cooler is "open" (IE leaking). It will decrease oil VOLUME. Might cause a "local" pressure drop if the cooler is larger diameter tubing, but the SYSTEM pressure should be the same.

 

[1SLwLS1]

Make sure you use quality parts if utilizing the oil cooler, definitely use -10 lines, buy once - cry once. I bought multiple times and cried every time.

Check out my thread of ups and downs on this topic. I am highly satisfied with my final results.

 

[Ramfanski]

Oil temperatures around 250 are pretty normal for a hard working gasser. Good synthetic oil is fine at those temperatures. I wouldn’t worry about it….

 

[Wild one]

Cooler should only decrease oil pressure if the cooler is "open" (IE leaking). It will decrease oil VOLUME. Might cause a "local" pressure drop if the cooler is larger diameter tubing, but the SYSTEM pressure should be the same.

The oil system isn't sealed per say as you're thinking,the bearings / lifters etc. are built in leak points. Only the 6.2's/Hellcats use an external stand alone cooler set up,and they also use a higher volume oil pump to compensate for the oil coolers.

 

[PaleFlyer]

The oil system isn't sealed per say as you're thinking,the bearings / lifters etc. are built in leak points. Only the 6.2's/Hellcats use an external stand alone cooler set up,and they also use a higher volume oil pump to compensate for the oil coolers.

My comment wasn't intended to say the system is 100% sealed, and leakproof. What I meant was that unless the cooler is either "a larger" size (IE goes from like 0.5" hose to 1" hose kind of thing) it shouldn't negatively impact oil pressure. And even if it is larger "volume" hose/pipe, the SYSTEM pressure should still stay pretty consistent, after the initial "fill" taking longer, IE every time you accelerate, the oil pressure might lag a little as it fills the cooler.

 

[Wild one]

My comment wasn't intended to say the system is 100% sealed, and leakproof. What I meant was that unless the cooler is either "a larger" size (IE goes from like 0.5" hose to 1" hose kind of thing) it shouldn't negatively impact oil pressure. And even if it is larger "volume" hose/pipe, the SYSTEM pressure should still stay pretty consistent, after the initial "fill" taking longer, IE every time you accelerate, the oil pressure might lag a little as it fills the cooler.

I've played with external oil coolers more then a few times,and have yet to see a stock system maintain the same pressure after an oil cooler is installed .There's a reason the Hellcats use a higher volume oil pump. How many stand alone engine oil coolers have you installed? Liquids like oil and water don't like bends in the line,and i've yet to stumble across a commonly used oil cooler that doesn't have several 180 bends with-in the cooler,along with the lines to and from the cooler.

 

[PaleFlyer]

I've played with external oil coolers more then a few times,and have yet to see a stock system maintain the same pressure after an oil cooler is installed .There's a reason the Hellcats use a higher volume oil pump. How many stand alone engine oil coolers have you installed? Liquids like oil and water don't like bends in the line,and i've yet to stumble across a commonly used oil cooler that doesn't have several 180 bends with-in the cooler,along with the lines to and from the cooler.

I haven't just as an engineer with hydraulics experience, it just doesn't add up that a pump powered system would lose pressure. Pressure is a measure of flow through a restriction. The oil cooler should at worst slow down the pressure ramp, IE when you first hit the gas, the time from idle pressure to "full" pressure takes "x" seconds, the addition of the cooler should make it "x+y", but you should still reach the same pressure after a bit of time. The pump pushes "z" oil/second, upto max pressure. (IE Pressure Washers are rated at PSI with the smallest nozzle they can handle, but the flow rate is with no restriction at all, so you aren't pushing 1.2GPM at 2300PSI, it's more of an either/or)

The cooler probably does create a LOCAL pressure drop in the cooler, but it should still allow the same volume of oil to flow through it in a give time, just internally to the cooler the oil will be slower flowing to give it time to lose some heat, by the cooler using larger tubes than the feed/drain side hoses. (IE the hoses from RAM would be 1/2" (or w/e), and the cooler would use 3/4" or 1" pipe to slow the oil flow internally, so the oil could "spread out" in the cooler, but the loop is effectively closed, meaning the pump shouldn't need to do anything any different, and you should see the same pressure through the entire system.

 

[1SLwLS1]

The longer the fluid has to travel, the greater the pressure drop will be. The cooler loop is much longer than no cooler.