How To: Add Factory Keyless Enter N Go

[Jimmy07]

Here’s a write up on how to add factory keyless enter n go (push button start) for anyone that wants to do this. My goal was to do this without a dealer visit and entirely with the alfaOBD software, but initially it wasn’t capable of programming the new fob and RF Hub replace. After some back and forth with Alexey (the developer), some debug logs, and a few updates, we finally got it to work. The good thing about adding this feature is, if you’re on a budget, and can’t buy all the parts at once, you can do the install in two separate steps, and have the individual features work as you progressively install the remaining parts. I’ll outline the install in the next few posts based on the order of those individual steps.

To start off with, here’s all the parts you need. I was able to source all of this for about $470 (assuming you already have the alfa software).

Start button switch (‘13-‘18)- 6CK46DX9AC

(2) In cab antennas (‘13-‘18)- 56046958AA

(2) door antennas (‘13-‘18)- 56046957AA

RF Hub (‘17-‘18)- 68319680AD

*NOTE*- It’s possible that some early ‘17 1500s have the older hub. Check your hub part number by connecting the alfa to your RF Hub, then click the battery icon bottom right, and read system ID. If you DON’T have part # 68319677Ax, then follow below.

RF Hub (other years)- 2014-2016 hubs are different than the 17-18s because the 17-18 hubs all support remote start and air suspension, and the 14-16 hubs are all different depending on whether or not you have remote start and/or air suspension. The best thing to do is search auto trader for a truck the same year as yours and the same remote start and air suspension (or not), but with keyless go, and use that VIN so the parts department (or Benny at allmoparparts.com) can get the part number you need. 2013’s are different than the other years, also (I think), so same situation as above.

Front door handles- https://www.moparautopartsdirect.com/v-2017-ram-2500--laramie--6-7l-l6-diesel/body--front-door

Rear door handles- unfortunately, the front keyless entry handles aren’t available for textured black, so for those with four door tradesmans, you’ll have to spring for rear handles, too, if you want everything to match- https://www.moparautopartsdirect.com/v-2017-ram-2500--laramie--6-7l-l6-diesel/body--rear-door

Key fob (also available with air suspension button)- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07D...F8&qid=1548046339&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

 

[Jimmy07]

Harness parts:

(1) C2 rf hub connector. This is the connector that plugs into the left side of the new rf hub, and all the antenna and door handle switch wires originate here.- https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/174910-2?qs=rraqY75DdlpSAFG/UhRalg==

(12) C2 connector terminals (get a few extra if this is your first time crimping these type of terminals)- https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/173716-2?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKhU8vud/mibvrXCB0VVaLIc=

(4) antenna connectors- https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/1-1438608-5/?qs=5LxyKtbdikFll6uVlodOdw==

(12) Antenna connector terminals. These are only available in multiples of 100 at mouser. They can be bought elsewhere individually, but after shipping, your right back at mouser’s 100 strip price.- https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/1355717-1-Cut-Strip?qs=sGAEpiMZZMti11uKQaALGSHG5Nz2znpNr4J2uumbelA=

(2) Door handle connector- https://nexelec.com/YAZAKI-7283-6079-30/

(4) Door handle connector terminals- https://nexelec.com/YAZAKI-7116472002/
*NOTE* Right now, Nexus is the only place I can find for the door handle connectors and terminals. The connectors are only available in multiples of 10, and the terminals multiples of 50. If you don’t care about using the factory connectors, you can cut the connector off the door handle wires and use bullet connectors with heat shrink tubing, or you can use this kit from mouser: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...iFFWr2%2bLevviPbowYftv/PpfoXUnin/ttSSftb4XA==

Wire- https://www.amazon.com/Valuepro-224GW-C-R-Stranded-Twisted/dp/B00B887D80/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1548046196&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Jameco+Valuepro+Stranded+Twisted+Pair+Cable,+24+AWG,+100'+Size,+Green/White,+Ideal+for+Voice+and+Data+Applications&dpPl=1&dpID=412jUOQydOL&ref=plSrch

alfaOBD software- google play store for Android. For windows- http://alfaobd.com/download.html

OBD dongle- https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-OBD...Y340_QL65&keywords=obdlink+mx+bluetooth&psc=1

Security gateway bypass cable (2018 only)- contact DeereGuy

Your trucks PIN for the fob programming- You get this from your dealer parts department in the form of a key code inquiry. If they give you a hard time, or if they want to charge you more than $15 for it, or you just don’t want to deal with them, there’s an app called Chrysler PIN Puller you can use that costs $15.

 

[Jimmy07]

The install can be done, and function, progressively. Basically, keyless enter n go is two separate functions- keyless (passive) entry, and keyless go (push button start). If you’re installing everything all at once, you don’t have to go in any order, just whatever is most time efficient for you, but I’m going to gear this towards those that are putting this together progressively.

First step is to get the keyless go functioning. The bare minimum for this is, you must have the new rf hub, the push button ignition switch, the fob, the two in cab antennas, and the harness parts.

Build the harness first. Here’s the schematic for the passive entry system.



We’re going to eliminate the circled inline connectors in between the RF Hub and the door antennas and handles. This means the wiring is going to have to get pulled through the rubber boot between the door and cab. Being that it’s so tight getting the wire through, the door antenna connectors and terminals, and the door handle connectors and terminals have to be put together after the wiring has been pulled through. All the lengths of wire can be pinned into to C2 hub connector, and the front and rear antenna connectors can be put on beforehand. You’ll also notice from the diagram that the factory location of the door antennas is the rear doors. We’re going to put them in the front doors to save having to take all four doors apart. (Thanks for that idea @skuppy069)

Here’s the pin out for the C2 hub connector:



Antenna 1 is the driver door antenna

Antenna 2 is the passenger door antenna

Antenna 3 is the rear antenna on the back wall next to the hub

Antenna 4 is the front antenna under the center console


Antenna connector (same for all 4):



Door handle connector (same for both):



Notice that all of the return wires are on the bottom row of the C2 connector positions 12-17. Notice that all of the return wires of the antenna and door handle connectors are position 2. Each antenna and each handle will have it’s own length of twisted pair wire. If you make all the green wires (or white if you want) the return wires across the bottom row on the C2 connector, then you’ll know that the green wire will always go to position 2 of their respective connectors. Here’s the twisted pair lengths to cut for each antenna and handle for a crew cab. Add or subtract accordingly if you have a mega, quad, or single cab.

Rear antenna- 18”

Front antenna- 200”

Driver door antenna- 190”

Driver door handle- 210”

Passenger door antenna- 220”

Passenger door handle- 240”

The door antenna and handle wires are a little long and will be cut in place.

I forgot to add in the parts list if you don’t have a terminal crimper, you’ll need one like this https://www.amazon.com/Crimping-0-0...WG+0.5-1.0mm2+with+Wire-electrode+Cutting+Die

Take the six lengths of twisted pair and strip all 12 ends that will go into the C2 connector, then crimp on C2 connector terminals. Insert the terminals into the appropriate positions on the connector, then snap the two wire cradles shut to keep the wires in place. Install the antenna terminals and antenna connectors on the 18” and the 200” twisted pair (front and rear antenna). At this point the harness is ready to be installed. Use some kind of system to identify the ends of the remaining pairs that don’t have connectors yet. I used a different color electrical tape for each door handle and antenna.

 

[Jimmy07]

Now we’re going to install the hub, rear antenna, harness, front antenna, and the ignition, but first use the alfa software to enable all the keyless enter n go features. This will give the BCM time to take the settings. Connect to the BCM. Click on the little car with the hood open. Go into car configuration change. Find keyless go, passive entry, fobik safe enable, and passive entry CSM, and enable them all. This will NOT affect the driveability of the truck even while using your original rf hub and fobs.

Remove the rear seat and the back wall carpet/insulation. I won’t get into how to do this as it’s pretty straight forward.

Your RF Hub will be on the back wall towards the driver side. Remove it from the wall, install the new hub in it’s place, plug in the existing connectors from the old hub, and plug in the new harness to the left side of the hub.

Mount the rear wall antenna using two 1/2” self tapping screws, and plug it’s connector in from the harness.

Remove the kick panel under the steering column by removing the two screws on the bottom edge of the panel. This it the panel that holds the obdII port and covers the ignition switch. The panel is still secured by 3 clips on each side. Pull the panel straight off. Remove the 4 screws holding the ignition switch down and install the new one. Reinstall the kick panel.

Pull the front and rear driver side plastic sill panels. No tools required.

Pull the lower B-pillar panel. Run the front antenna wire with connector along the driver side under the exposed carpet edge all the way up front, and bring it around under the footwell carpet to underneath the center stack/console area. Plug in the antenna and mount it somewhere up front center where it is concealed.

Now we’re ready to program the new fob and hub. Close the driver door and open it to wake up the bus. Confirm that the BCM took the settings from earlier, as the EVIC should display press brake + start button. Fire up the alfa and connect to the RF Hub. Set the new fob on the center console lid. Click the car with hood open and select “program ignition fobiks highline system”. Enter your PIN and follow the prompts. Once that is complete, and still connected to the hub, go to “RF Hub reset/replace”. This time, for PIN, enter 0000 and hit start. When the procedure is complete, step on the brake and start the truck. It will probably die after a few seconds, and you’ll have TPMS warnings. Now put the truck in run (engine off), still connected to RF Hub, click on the little engine then read and clear faults. Perform RF Hub replace again. Start the truck again and it should stay running now, but, you will have lost your TPMS sensors. Start driving around for a while to see if the sensors will pick up. If they don’t, pull over, connect to the RF Hub, go to “sensor rolls test”, hit start, and start driving again. They should immediately register now. Park the truck and clear faults again, and you’re done. Now you have push button start. You can do the door handles and antennas later.

 

[Jimmy07]

Now for the painstaking part of pulling the wire through the rubber door boot and installing the door handles.

Remove the door panel. Pretty straight forward- pull the sail panel, pop the small cover open behind the inside door handle and remove the screw, pull the trim ring off from around the handle, pry up and disconnect the window/door switch, remove the screws and plugs from the perimeter of the panel, and lift it straight up and out.

Remove the weather strip from the clip above and below where the wire boot attaches to the door. Pry the boot off of the cab connector.



Remove the upper and lower screws from the boot plate on the door.



Remove the white connector from the cab. There are 4 tabs to push in while pulling it out. You might have to partially close the door to get it completely out and free up the wires from inside the cab. Feed your antenna and handle wires up through the hole in the cab and then through the hole in the white connector like in the picture.



Next, I used a piece of tie wire to pull the wires through the boot. If you’re wondering why I’m only showing one twisted pair, it’s because when I first did this, I put the antenna in the rear door, so all you’re seeing is the door handle wires.



Now you can put the antenna connector on the antenna wires and the handle connector on the handle wires. Prepare the door handles by cutting the original connector off and pinning the new mating connector on.

This will be the mounting location for the antenna.

 

[Jimmy07]

Finally, it’s time to remove the inner panel and install the new door handle. Make sure to run the wire so it doesn’t interfere with the window operation.
Here’s a video of it https://www.ramforum.com/threads/how-to-add-factory-keyless-enter-n-go.134961/page-3#post-1930857
Here’s the service manual instructions





Test handle operation and put everything back together and now you have passive entry.


One final note on your PIN. From here on out, when you perform an RF Hub reset, such as after you adjust tire pressure thresholds, your PIN will be 0000. If you need to program a fob, you will use your original PIN. I’m not sure why yet, but I’ll see what Alexey has to say. I don’t think it’s anything to worry about, since the fob programming is still secured by your original PIN.


Thanks to all the members throwing ideas around over in the oem push button start thread. Special thanks to @skuppy069, who was doing this at the same time as me. I got to talk to him on the phone when he had the dealer enable his and we were able to confirm a few things. And thanks to Alexey, as he was able to finally get the programming to work in about 6 hours, all while dealing with the crashing issues from the previous update.

 

[WTM75]

Nice write up!!

 

[skuppy069]

Nice write up!!

X2

 

[fearroyo]

Great write up!!! My parts can't get here soon enough. They are probably drop shipped from Mopar so it's slow.

 

[chrisbh17]

Great write up and great collaboration, guys!

@Jimmy07 - do you have a pic of the original door handle connector? I found a barely OK pic of it on Ebay and it looks eerily similar to the connectors I needed to buy for my horn project, and I happen to have a spare....imagine the coincidence if its actually the correct one!