How to Fluid Film your truck

I went through a Gallon (whole truck) in about 2 hours once started using a 60 Gallon 11.5 CFM Compressor and 8 Rattle Cans. (Used in the doors, hood, inside fender flares, tailgate etc.) I mixed the FF using a drywall mud mixer on my Milwauke drill after the gallon sit in hot water before opening. It was dripping out on the ground several days later. Check your spray pattern and adjust if needed. I would say if your Compressor is small then you will see a difference in the spray pattern when pressure drops. Equals more pause time. I used the kit from Amazon for Woolwax. I did think about switching to a 3/8" hose but it wasn't seemingly needed and the kit worked well. Just be careful not to kink the long hose.

 

To be sure 2 Hours only was the 1 Gallon. It went fast. The prep time, rattle cans etc and re assembly was time intensive. Me being Me I took my time over the weekend. Bought new hardware where needed. And my total truck down time was three days. But hey I'm a detail oriented Ex Military Guy with other things to drive.

 

No need to use penetrating oil...FF will do exactly that. It creeps right in

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

I hear ya.

Just give my opinion, FF is far from a penitrating oil.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM

 

Update on Woolwax application after 1 year

 

Getting lazy (and sore and slow) in my old age, Im going to this process:

Alternating years, I will do a full (under body, frame, wheel well liners removed, etc) spray with NHOil or Corrosion Free

During "odd" years I will shoot through the rear taillight openings to get the rear wheel well. Through the plugs in the lower A pillars to get into the front wheel wells. Through each "ridge" in the underside of the bed. Through the plugs in the B and C pillars to get into the rockers. n the front and rear suspension just by kneeling down and spraying at them.

Just getting too much to roll around under the truck all day on a creeper and dont want to pay $280 for someone to do the same (or worse) job than my "easy" years.

 

That's how I roll with my yearly re-applies.

You might catch some areas you missed the previous time and skip over areas that have a lot of build-up.

That's the beauty of the oil type sprays. Once they get some dirt mixed into the mix, the product sticks and builds up. It's a greasy mess over time, but better to deal with than rust and stuck bolts.

Even if I pull a wheel off for brake work or tire rotation, if I've got the time, I'll grab my spray gun kit of FF or WW or an aerosol can of FF and catch areas I can get it.

 

Reminds me....if you can safely do it, always hit the back plate of the brakes, especially the rears. Those "blocks" are raw, so surface rust shows up, but in the future having them as rust free as possible will become important.

The rear dust shields on my old Frontier rusted out and you cannot find them anymore (used, everyone else's rusted too...new is no longer available, not even aftermarket).

I usually aim the sprayer parallel with the shields/backing plate so the overspray just about touches them while spraying on the control arms, fuel tank, etc.

 

For sure on the backing plates and dust shields. I hit the rears inside and out on my 2019 Ram 1500 a couple weeks ago when I pulled the rear brakes apart to slather some never-seize on the parking brake actuators. Lots of raw steel and cast parts in there that were disturbingly rusted on my 2019 at 20K miles.

 

Every year I do my truck, my father's Pathfinder, and my father in laws Frontier and this year bring the 4th year I did my truck and the 3rd year I did their vehicles. This time it was a very light application on all of them. The high wash areas needed touching up but everywhere else was still soaked with FF with a coating of dirt.