If You’re Really Going to Service 8HP70 Trans on Your Driveway ...

[EdGs]

I'm sure it will go ok. Just ordered pan, fluid, tstat, coolant, and a belt. Still need to get a few odds and ends. Brake fluid, etc.

Stuff should be here by 22nd, so I know what I'll be doing between Christmas and New Year's.

 

[EdGs]

Tranny went south at the dragstrip,but it made the 150 mile trip home from the dragstrip that night with-out 5th/6th/7th or 8th,so i knew the cooler would need to be flushed "alot" lol.Biggest issue was it took 10 days for the brand new transmission to come out of Michigan to Alberta,so the truck sat on the driveway 3ft in the air for close to 2 weeks without a transmission in it,lol.If i'd put a factory reman tranny in it,i could of had it the next day,but i wanted a "brand new" 8 speed,and there was only 1 in the system at the time,and it was in Michigan,aarrgghh,lol

So, did you have to exchange the original?

What became of it?

Bet that was a long ride home in 4th gear.

 

[Wild one]

So, did you have to exchange the original?

What became of it?

Bet that was a long ride home in 4th gear.

My original was used to cover the core charge. I'm not sure what they do with the used trannies,but i had to drain it,bolt the convertor into it with the bracket that held the convertor in the new tranny,and put it back in the fancy shipping container the new one came in. They do come with a new convertor and full of fluid,the only thing it didn't come with was the thermal heater unit ,i had to re-use the original heater assembly.In hindsight,i should have bought a new thermal bypass unit,they aren't all that much money,but i didn't realize a bypass wasn't included until the tranny showed up,and at the time it was another week away,so i just flushed it,and re-used my original bypass,as by that time,i was tired of looking at the truck 3ft in the air,and undrivable,lol

 

[TheEnder]

Add about 10k more to replace a 6-speed.........lol

Yeah, not worth it to drop a 8 speed into a 6 speed truck at all imo. You could get a 2013-2014 1500 with a V6/V8 8 speed for that much $$.


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[HEMIMANN]

Geez, what kind of super-tranny is this ZF? I know we get set in our ways, but this seems pretty bizarre after a lifetime of changing tranny oil (I'm 62 and not getting any spryer, and hate the overcharging @ the dealer service garage).

Is it wrong to say I'm happy I have the "old" 6 speed? Just 15 years ago the 6 speed was the new & wondrous thing.

 

[crackerjack1957]

Yeah, not worth it to drop a 8 speed into a 6 speed truck at all imo. You could get a 2013-2014 1500 with a V6/V8 8 speed for that much $$.


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Then transfer all your mods......456 geared front & rear, engine, core upper/lowers, swaybar, tune etc or start from scratch on 8-speed truck.
You can't win either way....LoL

 

[MRFREEZE57]

well did my transmission drain and fill today at 49k miles, wasn't too bad a job. the biggest pain is the drain plug right under the exhaust but the PPE pan I installed has the drain plug in right in the open and will be so much easier next time. went with Redline D6.also had to raise the rear end about 14 inches to get the transmission level. am going to drain and fill again in about 500 miles to get more of the old stuff out. even with the PPE pan took about 7 quarts, don't know how much it takes when the whole thing is dry. the old stuff was a bit dark so am glad has been removed.

 

[Hemi1978]

Hi please forgive the intrusion from someone who doesn't own a ram. I recently watched a video on this very subject posted by someone who had come to the same conclusions as yourself. He bought the same Dorman pan and decided to go with the same Valvoline fluid as you (except on a jeep GC). After watching the video I did the same thing as him with the exception of rather than doing the drain and fills I went straight for the exchange (which he explains fully in section 5 tips). After coming across this post I'm now concerned (and confused) about the having to raise the rear end to ensure the transmission pan itself is level. I'm concerned because I didn't do this (or rather the this wasn't done at the shop) when refilling and checking my level. We followed the instructions posted online from ZF for the fluid leveling procedure. This is also where the confusion comes in as you claim the info/page in your post is from ZF. I find it odd that ZF would publish instructions for this procedure online and leave out such an important fact, especially given ZF is aware how many trucks are out there with this transmission. After reading your post I called my local Ram/Jeep dealership and they assured me that the level should be checked with the VEHICLE LEVEL. Went I explained further regarding your post they said the instructions they have for there own mechanics is too check the fluid level with the vehicle level... not the pan. The service agent even laughed saying that if I was correct then that means they have been incorrectly filling trucks for years, and since none have come back to the shop with low fluid then he's pretty sure they know what there doing. I have searched hard on the internet to find the "instructions" as you showed them but have come up empty.

Given the fact that the transmission pan on my jeep is not level when my vehicle is level this is something I definitely want to figure out. Please understand it is not my intention to infer that your lying. In fact I found your write up extremely thorough and factual (a fact that makes me more nervous) on this subject. I was hoping you could elaborate on where exactly you got that "page" from and what you meant about it costing you thousands. I will include links to the ZF instructions i found online (you have probably seen them) and a link to the video posted on youtube (it's long but very thorough, you may find it of interest).

One of the things that may be of particular interest to you is the info on the exchange machine. You mentioned in your video of being aware that you couldn't get all the old fluid. After watching the video I went and got the "exchange" done at a shop. It differs from the normal "flush" machine in that it doesn't PUSH or PRESSURE fluid through your components (which many people feel is potentially harmful). It just exchanges the fluid from your pan, by means of undoing your fill bolt and placing a wand into your pan. Then it pumps in 1 liter of fluid, and pumps out 1 liter of fluid. This goes on for around 30-45 mins while the vehicle is running so your own transmission pump is circulating fluid. The service (at the shop I went to) includes 15 liters of Valvoline maxlife and cost $200 cad. If you opt to bring your own fluid IE amsoil or whatever then it costs $150 cad. There are a few benefits from doing it this way including, not having to touch the plastic drain plug (which is known to be frail and prone to stripping/cracking). It's unaffected by the presence of the Thermostatic bypass valve (which is what prevents using a normal flush machine when the cold fluid causes the valve to close). It exchanges 95% of the fluid quickly, cleanly, safely and cheaply. Of course this doesn't touch your pan or filter but seems like youve got that under control anyways. The video goes into more detail (actually showing what the fluid looks like at each drain & fill and then after doing the exchange, and shows animations of the bypass valve, ect...
https://aftermarket.zf.com/remoteme...38411/si-zf-si-oelwechselkit-8hp-50130-en.pdf

 

[fijicorey]

Just got done doing the fluid swap. This thread is a life saver! Two things I would add:

1. The 10 mm allen for the drain plug is in a tight spot. I had to cut my allen wrench to about a one inch piece and use a 10mm box end to get it off

2. One of the pan bolts is also in a tight spot. A T40 torx socket won't fit with a ratchet. I had to use a regular allen wrench and just tighten it by feel since there was no way I could get a torque wrench in there.

Overall took me about 2.5 hrs, not bad. I ended up using the ZF 8 speed fluid

 

[DCD5907]

I just serviced my transmission last night using the ATP B-453 pan and oe zf oil. for what its worth, the sump configuration of the ATP pan is different then my oe pan, it also has 2 less magnets then the oe pan. the Transmission did take the same amount of oil I drained to refill it. I did remove 2 of the magnets from my oe pan and install em in the ATP pan as there is a spot for both. so far so good. I think im gonna do a drain and fill with filter replacement a couple times to "clean" the oil out of the trans system then go back to a oe spec pan after. 2018 ram 5.7 with 75k on the clock.

 

[MRFREEZE57]

I just serviced my transmission last night using the ATP B-453 pan and oe zf oil. for what its worth, the sump configuration of the ATP pan is different then my oe pan, it also has 2 less magnets then the oe pan. the Transmission did take the same amount of oil I drained to refill it. I did remove 2 of the magnets from my oe pan and install em in the ATP pan as there is a spot for both. so far so good. I think im gonna do a drain and fill with filter replacement a couple times to "clean" the oil out of the trans system then go back to a oe spec pan after. 2018 ram 5.7 with 75k on the clock.

do yourself a favor, spend a few extra bucks and replace with the PPE pan. the drain plug is easily accessible for the next drain and fill and also has a replaceable filter.

 

[DCD5907]

do yourself a favor, spend a few extra bucks and replace with the PPE pan. the drain plug is easily accessible for the next drain and fill and also has a replaceable filter.

yup, that would have been a better choice.

 

[rsfdiver]

2014 RAM with v6. Had a Mechanic swap out the pan. Showed him the info (Green), don't think it was level, running or the right temp when refilled. Noticed a shudder after a bit, especially when trans temp is cooler at the beginning of a drive, and decided to check the level of the fluid. Jacked up the back of the truck as high as I could on the down slope of my driveway and was nearly level (1/4 bubble off front and back). Went through the written procedure (Green, posted page 1 or so), added +1-3/4 more quarts at/near the recommended temp until it started dribbling out, and plugged it.
Remember to have it running the whole time while filling it in 'park', it makes a big difference.
Faint occasional shudder at low rpm seems to be gone.
Shifting unnoticeable/smooth.
Fingers crossed...
Thanks for the help all.

 

[EdGs]

That's awesome!

If you dont mind me asking, what did it set you back for the pan change? How much fluid did he use?

Glad to hear it appears to be sorted out now.

 

[rsfdiver]

about 5 quarts, he charged me 60$

 

[EdGs]

about 5 quarts, he charged me 60$

That's not bad at all, I thought he sold you the pan as well.

 

[Dan90]

Looks like OP used 30 second intervals when shifting the trans after filling. Green sheet ZF instructions call for 5 seconds.

What is the concesus? What are others doing?

My initial thought is you only need to hold it at that interval for enough time as it takes for the fluid to enter that region of the trans, I imagine that's more on par with 5 seconds but looking for feedback!

 

[Wild one]

Looks like OP used 30 second intervals when shifting the trans after filling. Green sheet ZF instructions call for 5 seconds.

What is the concesus? What are others doing?

My initial thought is you only need to hold it at that interval for enough time as it takes for the fluid to enter that region of the trans, I imagine that's more on par with 5 seconds but looking for feedback!

Follow the green sheet.You're in a bit of a time crunch to get everything done,and still have the transmission with-in the temp spec for checking.

 

[Funkychateau]

Hi, this is a follow-up a year later.

My shuddering during light acceleration and upshifts “re-worsened” shortly after the fluid change. I’m thinking that perhaps it didn’t really make much difference in the first place. My driving schedule at the time was short trips only, and the shudder is typically absent or greatly reduced with a cold engine/trans anyway. As soon as I started driving long enough periods for a full warm-up, things were “back to abnormal”.

I’m now up to 223,000 miles with the problem gradually worsening, so I guess I’m just going to drive it until it dies. It’s a shame, because even with all these miles the truck has no rattles, looks nearly new inside and out, doesn’t need oil between changes, and gets 23 MPG on a straight level freeway.

I’m also tempted to try the “Shudder Fixx” additive mentioned in a recent thread.

 

[jelih]

I added that to my amazon cart last night. Kinda sorry to hear that the fluid change didn't help, as I have a new pan and fluid on the way already after reading this write-up. I guess I may as well go ahead and order the additive. I'm still going to do the change since everything will be here in a couple days anyway. The weather is really nice right now also.

I just bought this truck 3 weeks ago, and was really worried about the 2-1 bump thing until I read thread after thread of people with the same issue, and now it's just annoying as opposed to terrifying. But, I changed my plugs the other day, and disconnected the battery so I could unplug one of the PCM connections to make more room. The battery was disconnected for most of the day and I think the TCM is in relearn mode now. I don't have the 2-1 bump anymore, but instead it's when I let off the brakes to accelerate from a stop, as soon as I hit the gas there is a clunk, which makes me want to look into the slip yoke thing others are talking about. I can still feel it shift into first while stopping, but it's nothing that would ever make me worry about it if that's how it had been initially.