Ignition switch

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Burla

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Voltage test the starter as opposed to puling it? Verify without the effort.
 
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That201857guy

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Do you have any links on where to get this new module…. Do I need to go through the dealership or a parts store?
 
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That201857guy

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And it’s not me pulling the starter…. And if it is a bad starter it’ll already be off the truck and easier to do in this cold weather. I’m trying everything and appreciate all of everyone’s inputs
 

Burla

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The 18 Ram (

Ram 1500 DS from 2012 through 2021 has an IGNM ignition node module in the dash that can be replaced without reprogramming anything. The previously used WIN module would require programming. FCA split up the older WIN module into two parts, the IGNM and RFHUb. The IGNM is only the pass through now. Hope this helps. I was a Qual Eng for TRW that made those parts.
guess me 2010 would have to be programmed, hopefully my win lasts another ten years knock wood.
 

Happyram2011

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I have a 2011 1500 CC Big Horn and my WIN went out. Could turn the truck off. Bought the WIN unit with fobs from Auto Tech Electrical in TX. Plug and play. Preprogrammed and also got the auto start ready WIN for future install. Just bought the missing auto start kit from them 2 yrs later and only had to install the new hood latch. Truck was pre wired for auto start. ATE was great!
 

Burla

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with or with out remote start, this was the website

looks like price up 200 bucks, bummer that deal. call the dealer just see what they would charge.
 

Nokick

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This is happening to me. It has been ongoing for over a month, and my Ram is sitting at the dealer, waiting for a resolution. The first failure to start (just a "click") resulted in a new battery. The next morning, one "click" and nothing. The next step was that the dealer assumed it was a bad alternator (go figure) and installed a new one. The next morning, one "click", again, then nothing. The last attempt was to replace the totally integrated power module. The next morning, one "click" then nothing. This last trip, it's been at the dealer's for two weeks while they try to figure out the 47 codes that were downloaded.

One constant (besides it not starting) has been that, whenever I try to start it and it just "clicks", the lights for the bed come on by themselves. Finally, the dealer is exploring the starter button issue.

Fortunately, I was provided with an extended warranty when I bought the Ram and the dealer has put me in a loaner vehicle to use until the issue is resolved, so it is neither expensive at this point or much of an inconvenience, but I still hope to get my truck back one of these days.
 

LeeD

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Battery is reading normal compared voltages to my neighbours truck and tryed cycling the ignition multiple times and still nothing dash lights don’t flicker don’t dim don’t do nothing but shut off when I shut the key off and turn it on when I turn the key on
What is the battery voltage when you try to start the truck? Resting voltage could show good but fail under a load.
 
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That201857guy

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Resting voltage was 11 drops down to 9 when under load and same with the neighbours truck and it started up perfectly fine
 

Hemi395

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Have you load tested the battery? These newer AGM batteries can show normal voltage but still have low cranking amps. I went thru this with my oem battery about 4 years ago.....
 

Marshall

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Resting voltage was 11 drops down to 9 when under load and same with the neighbours truck and it started up perfectly fine
Well that is a problem, those numbers are too low, no matter what the other truck does, unless your meter is off, have you checked voltage on starter? have you made sure battery terminals are clean and tight, starter wire tight? ,If the dealer has it , that will be checked, hopefully, or was that someone else?
A click sound like low battery, poor starter, you should have 12-13 volts sitting , 14+ volts running.
 
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That201857guy

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I’m going to load test battery there could be a dead cell or something in it I have a few friend coming over tonight and we are gunna go through the truck with a fine tooth comb to figure it out
 

GTyankee

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Judge for yourself ignitions & FOBs


they have made several trouble shooting videos for the Ram & other Chrysler products

They also sell ignition modules
.........................................................................................

Toms keys .................................... Simple Keys

 

pinenut

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Excellent. If you don't bring it up again I'll assume it ws a permanent fix. I'm past the age where I can pull and clean a ground under the truck.
Meanwhile: What was the temperature in Napanee when this was going on? I'm finding that Billy ('10 1500) starts acting funny below -20C. MarinBSP in Minnesota mentioned something similar, early in this thread.
First was my issue with recalibrating the compass that ultimately solved itself (I think). But with advice from GTYankee now I understand it. And I think it was a cold issue. A few days ago the temp here dropped overnight to -25 and all I got was a chattering series of clicks like a dead battery, but all the lights worked. Boosted it. Today at -22 by the household weather station and -28 by Billy's thermo, plugged in for a couple of hours, started like a charm. Ran for a good half hour while I hooked up the water trailer, shut off and went in for breakfast. Half or 3/4 of an hour later it was the same damn chattering click like a dying battery. Boosted him again.
Side issues: From cold (-20 and lower) all displays are slower than the second coming. The touch screen will not show until the cab warms up. No clock, no radio, no nuthin. First and only appearance of CAL indicating compass recalculation that I've already mentioned.
-20 C equates to -4 F which is in line with MarineBSP's experience
So: I'll make sure I've turned everything electrical off when I park. We'll see if it happens again. I really don't want to crawl under the truck.
Cheers
 

toonpopo

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I recently bought an 09 Ram 1500 5.7 SLT. It has the passive key fob that buttons don't work on (I replaced battery and still doesn't work). When I brought it home and tried starting next day (and each time now) it'll turn over and start super easily then shut off and sometimes the dash lights blink, sometimes they don't. I eventually do get it running by holding accelerator and my mouth a certain way and if the key stays where it should it'll run. I don't know if this is a key issue (I've ordered 2 more keys and will get them programmed when they arrive in a couple weeks) or an ignition issue, or an anti-theft setting issue or......????

Any help would be greatly appreciated. The truck runs 100%, it is definitely not the starter or anything mechanical with the truck
 
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