Increasing towing capacity

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TerryW

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I currently drive a 2017 Ram 1500, with the 3.6 and a 3.21 axle ratio. It is a four-wheel drive. My truck has a towing capacity of only 4,210 lbs. According to Ram tow guides, the same truck with a 3.55 and 3.92 axler have a towing capacity of 7, 210 lbs. Has anyone ever upgraded an axle ratio in order to increase towing capacity? Would anything else help? Looking to upgrade my camper without purchasing a new truck.
 

Travelin Ram

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I have towed many trailers, and travel trailers in particular for long distances. What you’re considering will certainly work. If you proceed, just make sure you also add any other optional equipment that sometimes gets integrated into a larger tow rating. Examples could be a larger radiator or tranny cooler, or oil cooler.

That said, I personally would not. Unless you’re in love with the truck, you’ll spend thousands and it’s worth no more afterwards.

If it’s relatively short distances on level ground, I’d live with it as is. Long tows or mountains I’d go for a bigger power plant. I say that because a V6 in the mountains with a TT is just not enjoyable.

Best of luck in your camping adventures!
 

turkeybird56

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To Increase Towing Capacity exponentially, Buy a Bigger Truck, preferably 2500/3500 w/Cummings (my inane sense of humor). In honestly, figure the Biggest thing U eva plan on towing/buying, add at least 2500 lbs to weight number, and buy truck to Pull that. Remember, U think dry weight, not loaded with water/fuel/food/stuff/people. PPL always forget that. Water over 6 lbs a gallon, fuel 8.3 lbs a gallon, got no idea what a propane bottle filled weighs, etc etc...
Like I pull a 2200 lb empty stock 14' trailer, add hay, now I got 7,000 lbs going down the road. OH, last thing, U get a bigger camper, if U not do, best think about a WDH (weight distro hitch) and check all on scales, especially if U stay with a V6 power plant and such. TRAVELING correct tho, I just got a lil wordy, but good luck on yer adventures and STAY safe.
 
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TerryW

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Thanks a lot guys. Someone else had mentioned to me about the added coolers for the transmission and radiator and such. As far as going up on the amount of weight, I most likely would not go above 6,000 lb. Not looking to upgrade to anything massive. I have seen several that have caught my eye that are actually less than 6,000 lb.
 

likes2build

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Ok, I'm in the same situation with 3.21's and a V6. Am I correct in my understanding that even if you do a gear swap the official towing capacity as far as DOT and the police are concerned stays at what the truck was rated at when it left the factory?
 

Travelin Ram

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The laws (which BTW I have never heard of an enforcement action on a non-commercial vehicle) apply to GVWR. That’s the weight on the truck itself.

GCVWR is just a warranty issue. You “may” damage your tranny, say, and FCA could rightfully deny you for exceeding tow ratings.

This is often a hot button issue on RV forums. There are predictions of lawsuits if you’re in an accident, allegations that insurance will not cover you. None of which ever produce a citation of an actual case.

By no means am I advocating towing over any rating. Merely pointing out that the real weight police enforce GVWR. If your truck is not over and your trailer is not over their respective ratings you’re in legal compliance.

And no, I’m not a lawyer, and this is not legal advice. Just my experience towing all over North America.
 

dhay13

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Yes. Swapping gears will not change your 'official' tow capacity. Just make it feel better and tow a little easier.
 

dhay13

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I am not a lawyer either but I have found cases where people were successfully sued because of towing overweight and being in an accident. Do a Google search. Not worth the risk to me. My 1500 towed my 9000lb boat with ease but it wasn't legal so I upgraded to protect my butt.
 

likes2build

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Thank you both. I know nothing about towing and had to look up all the acronyms to understand what they meant. I get it now and really appreciate the education. Btw I hold an insurance adjusters license and have to agree that the possibility of denial is never worth the risk.
 
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392DevilDog

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If you look at the way Gross COMBINED weight rating is figured out using the SAE test you will see exactly how the number will relate to you.

The 3 big things is how much weight the parking brake can hold on a certain % of incline. Starting on said incline, and slowing/stopping on said incline.



My loss of understanding on all of these "towing" questions is how one can buy a truck, decide we need the largest trailer on the market and then immediately decide to upgrade the truck.

If you already bought the truck...make the trailer fit it.

If you haven't bought the truck, then go pick out your trailer. Then pick the truck.

I just wish I had enough money to buy a truck and on a whim buy a trailer and then have money to just throw upgrades at a truck that wasn't designed to do the job.

I do understand the holiday weekend deal where you tow your camper for memorial day and labor day, so you want that 1500 for the other 363 days.

But if you tow often...get a trailer for your truck or a truck for your trailer.
 

Elkman

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Changing out the gears for 3.92 ones is the best way to go. No idea why someone would be so stupid as to recommend buying a new truck and spending far more on just the DMV fees and sales tax than the cost of swapping out the gears of the truck.

Towing capacity with these light trucks is primarly governed by the gears and the engine. The 3.21 gears screw the buyer with tall gearing that only improves fuel economy on the test sled at the EPA and helps Ram get a better CAFE score.

A tow package on these trucks should automatically provide the 3.92 gears and the 33-gallon fuel tank but it does not. I have to special order my new truck to get these "options". Actually the 33-gallon tank adds $2100 to the purchase price for the truck with is a rip-off. Not as bad as the new multifunction tailgate that adds $3500 to the MSRP for the truck.
 

dexter

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I currently drive a 2017 Ram 1500, with the 3.6 and a 3.21 axle ratio. It is a four-wheel drive. My truck has a towing capacity of only 4,210 lbs. According to Ram tow guides, the same truck with a 3.55 and 3.92 axler have a towing capacity of 7, 210 lbs. Has anyone ever upgraded an axle ratio in order to increase towing capacity? Would anything else help? Looking to upgrade my camper without purchasing a new truck.

What is your payload??????

That is a limiting factor. Changing the gears will not increase that.
 

McBroom

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I currently drive a 2017 Ram 1500, with the 3.6 and a 3.21 axle ratio. It is a four-wheel drive. My truck has a towing capacity of only 4,210 lbs. According to Ram tow guides, the same truck with a 3.55 and 3.92 axler have a towing capacity of 7, 210 lbs. Has anyone ever upgraded an axle ratio in order to increase towing capacity? Would anything else help? Looking to upgrade my camper without purchasing a new truck.
It's the engine that holds the tow capacity back not the gears or other suspension items

Blue Mule
 

runamuck

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Changing out the gears for 3.92 ones is the best way to go. No idea why someone would be so stupid as to recommend buying a new truck and spending far more on just the DMV fees and sales tax than the cost of swapping out the gears of the truck.

Towing capacity with these light trucks is primarly governed by the gears and the engine. The 3.21 gears screw the buyer with tall gearing that only improves fuel economy on the test sled at the EPA and helps Ram get a better CAFE score.

A tow package on these trucks should automatically provide the 3.92 gears and the 33-gallon fuel tank but it does not. I have to special order my new truck to get these "options". Actually the 33-gallon tank adds $2100 to the purchase price for the truck with is a rip-off. Not as bad as the new multifunction tailgate that adds $3500 to the MSRP for the truck.

33 gal tank option was 445$ on my '19 ram. a buddy test drove one with the new tailgate and said it was 995$ upgrade. changing out the gears on a 4wd truck doubles the cost but still would be worth the money if you want to tow better and keep the same truck. wouldnt make sense to go 3.55, costs the same to go 3.92 and would pull much better.
 

tron67j

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33 gal tank option was 445$ on my '19 ram. a buddy test drove one with the new tailgate and said it was 995$ upgrade. changing out the gears on a 4wd truck doubles the cost but still would be worth the money if you want to tow better and keep the same truck. wouldnt make sense to go 3.55, costs the same to go 3.92 and would pull much better.
I quoted wrong post, sorry. But this post quoted correct one. would not call somebody stupid for suggesting the purchase of a new vehicle, the purpose of these forms is to help each other out and provide what we have found from our own experiences. in the case of wanting to tow more there are a lot of things that go into setting up a vehicle for towing. For example, does the intended truck have a transmission oil cooler. Does the truck have too much usage of the electrical system already with sound and other equipment that adding a trailer and all of its electrical requirements might over tax your truck? There are a lot of things that go into ensuring a tow vehicle can properly tow the trailer that you are buying. I am sure all that other person meant about looking to buy a new truck was if you found the cost for upgrading yours was so exorbitant that it made more sense to just buy a vehicle that was ready to go. Of course there are cost for DMV fees and everything else that goes into it, but it could be a lot less than what you might spend for select upgrades. And, upgrading a current truck could possibly just shorten it's useable life and maybe still ending up broken down on the side of the road if it didn't have the right setup after all of the upgrade expense.

Some other things to consider when towing, if you have a fifth wheel travel trailer you need to be concerned with the bed and hitch. You will need a slide hitch with a shortbed truck to ensure that you can turn the vehicle in tight spaces such as when getting gas. If you use a fixed hitch or forget to move the slide hitch and turn too tight you'll pop the windows out of the back of the cab. If you are going past the capacity of the truck as it is set up you may have to install new rear springs and possibly even the shock absorbers. We all find out that it is expensive to tow correctly, but buying a truck for towing is just like buying a tool for a job, you wouldn't buy a lightweight cordless drill when you need a heavy duty corded drill for repetitive concrete work.
 
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MrTire Expert

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Thank all members so much for sharing this. This is just definitely what I needed.
 

Quyonmob

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I have the same truck. Don’t even consider a 6klb trailer.

This is about 4000lb loaded. Pulls great but aero drag combine with weight holds me in 5-6 gear at 65mpg.

11BC9788-27A0-4F85-9449-63D0E1630163.jpeg
 
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