Interestion results

[Hagar1]

For $h!ts and giggles why don't you try another throttle body.Did you try the old spray bomb starting fluid trick to see if you have any vacumm leaks

Already tried a few, no difference. I have gone over the entire intake system with propane. No change. I really don't want to take it to a dealer but, that might be my only option. In my 60 plus years of driving, I have never paid any shop or dealership for any repair other than oil changes when I couldn't do them myself. I have always done my own repairs but this one has me beat.
Now, yesterday when I was trying some things, I dropped it down into 4th and I noticed that vacuum came up, MAP voltage went down and things for a moment almost looked normal. I understand that a slightly higher RPM will have an effect on vacuum. It is like the vehicle is under heavy load. I have even checked for a dragging brake.

 

[20IndyRam]

The idle is OK, with 20 "hg and steady. The MAP reading at idle is where it should be ... less than 1 volt. When cold, just after start it is totally gutless at pretty much anything other than wide open throttle. This resolves as it warms. The other thing I noticed recently is that I think I hear a pop, pop like we would hear in a carbureted engine that was running lean. This only has happened while cold.
I'm sort of leaning to some yet to be discovered mechanical problem. The other interesting thing is that the change from good to bad literally happened over night.
One
Compression last spring was all around 135.
I used the old propane enrichment tool to look for vacuum leaks, none showed up.
MAP, CAM and Crank were all recently replaced. I verified that the cam phased was working (my diagnostic tool can check it)
I'm heading out to do more testing.
Thanks!

You've checked/replaced things on the intake side. How about the exhaust?

Any chance you have a partially plugged CAT or collapsed/restricted exhaust? I would think you would get O2 codes, but maybe not depending on how restricted things are.

 

[Hagar1]

So, if I read your commentary correctly, the values in photo 3 are within a couple of minutes of photo 2. Correct? If so that is likely normal to get a feedback long term trim value. Now how long did you run the engine after photo 3 and did the short term values remain steady during that time? If so, the long term values should remain relatively low.

I've never seen short term values so low in actual practice. Do these vary at all your a multi-minute runtime?

Also, I'm not sure what this means, but between the various screens the ADAP Cell number changes.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 139355 miles.

I tried the Launch 123 last night and it gave me what I think might be more accurate readings on short and long term. Long term on bank 1 was hovering around -11

You've checked/replaced things on the intake side. How about the exhaust?

Any chance you have a partially plugged CAT or collapsed/restricted exhaust? I would think you would get O2 codes, but maybe not depending on how restricted things are.

I considered restricted exhaust but if I go full throttle from a stop up to 70 mph, it doesn't show any sign. Generally a restricted exhaust will show up on hard acceleration. Used to see restricted exhaust on the early converters when leaded gas was still available. Also seen it on some GMs with the double wall pipe exhaust

 

[Wild one]

I tried the Launch 123 last night and it gave me what I think might be more accurate readings on short and long term. Long term on bank 1 was hovering around -11

I considered restricted exhaust but if I go full throttle from a stop up to 70 mph, it doesn't show any sign. Generally a restricted exhaust will show up on hard acceleration. Used to see restricted exhaust on the early converters when leaded gas was still available. Also seen it on some GMs with the double wall pipe exhaust

This is a real out there idea,but try pulling the vacumn hose off the brake booster and plug it with a bolt,and go for a drive,just remember the brakes will be real hard.

 

[Hagar1]

This is a real out there idea,but try pulling the vacumn hose off the brake booster and plug it with a bolt,and go for a drive,just remember the brakes will be real hard.

I had my steam powered snap on vacuum guage T'd into that line to cross check against my diagnostic boxes. Still though, I'll give it a try. I'll do that this afternoon.
I had a dodge caravan that suffered from an internal leak and when I pinched the line off, the mileage went up.

 

[Wild one]

I had my steam powered snap on vacuum guage T'd into that line to cross check against my diagnostic boxes. Still though, I'll give it a try. I'll do that this afternoon.
I had a dodge caravan that suffered from an internal leak and when I pinched the line off, the mileage went up.

If you have something to pinch the line off,that's definitely easir then plugging it. It's just an off the wall idea i'm throwing at you.

 

[Hagar1]

If you have something to pinch the line off,that's definitely easir then plugging it. It's just an off the wall idea i'm throwing at you.

Not off the wall at all. There are plenty of problems that don't fit in a mould.
I usually apply my needle nose vice grips to that task.

 

[Hagar1]

I think I'm going to ditch the ancel and the launch diagnostic boxes and go to the ALFAOBD. Hoping that it has more capability but I know nothing about it, other than what I've read here.
Where does it stand compared to factory test equipment? Should I have a Windows laptop strictly dedicated or should I have a google tablet.
I've found too many discrepancies between the tools that I currently own. I also have a paid Torque engine setup for my Android phone but it wiped out during an update.
I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks

 

[Hagar1]

Not off the wall at all. There are plenty of problems that don't fit in a mould.
I usually apply my needle nose vice grips to that task.

Well, I went out and gave it a try with the brake vacuum line pinched off. No difference. I'm at a loss as to what is wrong. Hoping that the alphaobd when I get it will help.

 

[04fxdwgi]

So many places to look. PCV valve, VVT sprocket (is the control valve screen plugged?), timing, bad sensor, etc.

A good scantool with real time data logging manifold vacuum, timing and such while operating MAY lead in the right direction. Heck, even a bad temp sensor can make things go bonkers. Even my crap Diablo Trinity EX can be set to record certain real time data streams

 

[Hagar1]

So many places to look. PCV valve, VVT sprocket (is the control valve screen plugged?), timing, bad sensor, etc.

A good scantool with real time data logging manifold vacuum, timing add such while operating MAY lead in the right direction. Heck, even a bad temp sensor can make things go bonkers. Even my crap Diablo Trinity EX can be set to record certain real time data streams

Manifold vacuum at idle is 20"hg and steady. I determined that my scan tool was lying to me about some things. Things like the VVT are working properly. I checked. Vacuum on my diagnostic box agrees with the reading on the steam powered old style vacuum guage. I've monitored the coolant temp and it stays linear.
Hopefully something will show up once I dig in with AlfaOBD.

 

[hemihustlin]

at this point I would be taking the valve covers off and turning the motor over to see if everything is moving nicely. it seems like you have covered all the basics. how long have you had the hemi tick, like you mentioned earlier?

 

[Hagar1]

at this point I would be taking the valve covers off and turning the motor over to see if everything is moving nicely. it seems like you have covered all the basics. how long have you had the hemi tick, like you mentioned earlier?

Hemi tick has been around for at least 2 or maybe 3 years.
Going one step further, pulling the engine and replacing with an overhauled engine.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Completely random,

Fuel trims usually indicates fuel related issues. Do you have an injector problem? You have checked a bunch of stuff, but it does not appear you have checked injector flow, or for leaking injectors. Unless I mis read the post

 

[Daw14]

Completely random,

Fuel trims usually indicates fuel related issues. Do you have an injector problem? You have checked a bunch of stuff, but it does not appear you have checked injector flow, or for leaking injectors. Unless I mis read the post

Completely random.
Congratulations on your retirement , relax now and have fun.

 

[Hagar1]

Completely random.
Congratulations on your retirement , relax now and have fun.

A lot hinges on engine vacuum. Low / no vacuum at low cruise is an important clue. Unless you go W.O.T. everytime you move from a stop, your vacuum should not drop to zero. When you are cruising in top gear at 60 mph, you should still see some vacuum. An absence of readable vacuum at cruise would cause the map sensor voltage to go up and as a consequence the pcm will call for more fuel. Remember that thse engines operate on speed / density. There is no airflow sensor. The system operates on what the engineers call engine mapping.