Intermittently Won't Start - Single Click, No Crank

[Learylax3r]

I've been having an issue lately with my truck starting, or rather not starting, intermittently and I'm looking for some advice on what to try.

The truck is a 17 1500 big horn 5.7. Original battery, not push to start, does have remote start.

About a month ago, I replaced the head. When restarting the truck after the job, I pulled the fuel pump fuse, to get some oil moving through before full start. Cranked it a few times, oil moved well, started and ran fine. The next couple days, I had an intermittent start issue where I would get a single click with no crank on the first start attempt, but the truck would start and run fine on either the second or third attempt. After a couple days, the truck started and ran as normal, started on the first key turn every time.

Fast forward to this week, and the intermittent start issue is back. Sometimes the truck starts on the first key turn, sometimes it starts on the 4th or 5th. Never cranks, just clicks once. Then this morning it just didn't start. Clicked once each key turn for about 10 cycles. Battery gauge was just under the mid line, which I assume is 12v. Asked a friend for a jump, truck started on the first turn of the key while being jumped.

I plan to go to the auto parts store and have the battery tested today, and will likely be either replacing that, or getting a new starter relay and trying that.

My questions are:
Why would a low battery cause a single click several start attempts, but start fine several attempts later without seeming sluggish or dimming lights while trying to start?

If it was the relay, why would it start right up the first try while jumping the truck?

Does anyone have any other ideas of what else this could be?

 

[huntergreen]

Check battery connections including both ends.

 

[Midnight Storm]

It wouldn’t be a dead battery issue as it wouldn’t magically get better by the 2nd or 3rd turn of the key. As mentioned it’s likely a battery connection issue.

 

[smithwessn]

I've replaced countless starters in Subarus for the same problem. Turn the key and get a single click. Turn the key a few more times and get more single clicks. Turn the key again and the car fires right up. The solenoid in the starter has power and ground but it sticks. After a few turns on the key it frees up and engages the starter motor.

I'm not say that's definitely your problem, but it's a possibility I guess.

 

[RedSRT4Me]

Replace the battery and be done with it

 

[burner71]

its not the battery and its not the starter. Its corrosion on the ground lead to the battery. Been there done that. Cut it back and put a new collar on.

 

[Irishthreeper]

Check battery connections including both ends.

What he said

 

[Elvira]

It does sound like a connection problem, possibly an engine ground you removed when doing the head ? The battery is probably still good, unless it is 5 yrs or older...rule of thumb i have always used is replace at 5 yrs. Intermittent problems can always be a puzzle at times.

 

[Daw14]

Check ground connections at both heads , clean terminals at battery,have battery LOAD TESTED . These batteries can last one year or eight years ,just luck of the draw .

 

[turkeybird56]

What he said

YUP, cables-connections as long as battery good. That be first guess.

 

[Robert Mc]

You can't look at a battery cable to know if it's good. They often corrode just under the plastic cover. Either trim back the battery cables at the battery, if you have enough extra lead, or get a new set of cables. If you have an extra vehicle take out the battery and take it with you when you go buy the new cables. You can have them double check the battery's condition while you're there. If the battery is bad get a new one. If it's good just get new cables. I would also check the condition of the grounding strap to the frame to make sure it is good also. Unfortunately i don't know where it is on your truck.

My daughter had a similar issue with her Jeep Grand Cherokee and it was just the battery. The only difference with hers is it wouldn't start and the code for the coolant level being too hot would stay lit in the dash cluster. You could jump start it but it wouldn't hold the charge. The coolant level warning is what through me off.

 

[radiack]

Replace the battery and be done with it

2017 Laramie 1500, same issue. Battery is grounding out internally. Had mine tested and was fine. Didn't know this till a friend told me about the battery issue. Replaced batt and been good ever since.

 

[Learylax3r]

Thanks all for the replies. Just a quick update, I took the cables off, cleaned the terminals and connections and re-connected the battery. It hasn't had a problem since then. I'll give it some time and if it happens again, I'll buy a new battery and see what happens then.

 

[Treburkulosis]

Check battery connections including both ends.

I second this. Mine did this a while back.

 

[2012RAM1500RT]

I have a 2012 2500 that will do it maybe once a month if that often. When it does it I put it in neutral and it starts every time. Been doing it for 2 years or more, mine has to do with the neutral safety switch. I'll of course change it when it strands me! LOL

 

[Canadian-Hemi]

I had an aftermarket remote, and it would fail periodically cause the one plug wouldn't always stay fully engaged. The plug that went to the head light switch if memory serves me.

 

[Elkman]

Your truck has an short or improper connection and I would first check the ground lead to the frame. A failing coil can also cause this sort of problem.

Time to invest in a $20 Ohm meter and check continuity. You can also check actual voltage to the relay for the starter motor and rule out the battery. The Ohm meter is a good way to check the coil and also plug wires for abnormal resistance.

Only idiots start replacing parts one by one without bothering to do any diagnostics.

 

[GTyankee]

Another possibility is the ignition switch

Hopefully your problem is the Battery, easy to fix normally, just buy a new one

If it turns out to be an WIN Module, ( ignition switch ),
$$$$$ & Flashing, programming $$$$

One of the signs of the WIN Module going bad is that at first it takes 2 to 5 tries to start the truck, with time it can take 10 or more turns of the FOB

 

[Keith C]

I've been having an issue lately with my truck starting, or rather not starting, intermittently and I'm looking for some advice on what to try.

The truck is a 17 1500 big horn 5.7. Original battery, not push to start, does have remote start.

About a month ago, I replaced the head. When restarting the truck after the job, I pulled the fuel pump fuse, to get some oil moving through before full start. Cranked it a few times, oil moved well, started and ran fine. The next couple days, I had an intermittent start issue where I would get a single click with no crank on the first start attempt, but the truck would start and run fine on either the second or third attempt. After a couple days, the truck started and ran as normal, started on the first key turn every time.

Fast forward to this week, and the intermittent start issue is back. Sometimes the truck starts on the first key turn, sometimes it starts on the 4th or 5th. Never cranks, just clicks once. Then this morning it just didn't start. Clicked once each key turn for about 10 cycles. Battery gauge was just under the mid line, which I assume is 12v. Asked a friend for a jump, truck started on the first turn of the key while being jumped.

I plan to go to the auto parts store and have the battery tested today, and will likely be either replacing that, or getting a new starter relay and trying that.

My questions are:
Why would a low battery cause a single click several start attempts, but start fine several attempts later without seeming sluggish or dimming lights while trying to start?

If it was the relay, why would it start right up the first try while jumping the truck?

Does anyone have any other ideas of what else this could be?

I had a similar problem and it ended up being a flywheel position sensor. I don't know how to check that. I took it to repair shop and they figured it out and replaced.

 

[2012RAM1500RT]

I have a 2012 2500 that will do it maybe once a month if that often. When it does it I put it in neutral and it starts every time. Been doing it for 2 years or more, mine has to do with the neutral safety switch. I'll of course change it when it strands me! LOL

It doesn't a dime to put it in neutral to see if it starts that way or not!