No crank no start

[Lui_5793]

Hello, I have my 2013 Ram 1500 4.7l have a no crank no start issue. So, backstory, I do landscaping on the side and have three yards on one street, two of which are next-door neighbors, but the houses are just about 2-3 blocks away from each other. Drove up to my first yard, did leaf clean up then went to my other two yards. Got to my two other yards and left my hazards on (busy street) and after 2 hours, I tried to start my truck, but nothing worked. Swiped thru cluster menu and saw that battery was at 9v. Had my wife come to my location with jumpers and jumped the truck. Saw that truck was getting 13v, tried to start again, nothing. What would happen is that I can hear the starter solenoid click once but after it did, the stereo would shut off. I also have a Bluetooth transmitter that is connected to the cigarette lighter port on the driver side and noticed it would shut off as well but after a few seconds, they would both come back on. Dome light, cluster, horn, signal lights,etc. all still work. Took truck back home and did the following: Removed battery and took to AutoZone, they say it tests good, Removed Starter and had Oreilleys test it, said its good but pop up gear would not extend, so got reman starter and installed but still nothing. I have no codes (have a basic obd2 code reader) but sometimes the cluster would light up like a Christmas tree and instead of menu showing up, it would show the software, IM, IM date, CAN and CFG. Battery positive post did have corrosion but got a terminal brush and cleaned up both battery posts and clamps but nothing worked. Tried to swap solenoids but solenoid is different compared to others in the fuse block. Checked fuses with Continuity checker and all are okay. Couldn't check the bigger fuses mainly because I don't know how to, I just checked to see if the links are still okay and not blown and all look okay. Haven't checked voltage to starter mainly because I don't know how to either. I did have some help with trying to jump the truck initially. Had a neighbor tell me to remove the positive cable off battery and connect jumper positive to it and negative to battery negative and route them to the donor truck. Tried this and nothing happened. Sorry if it is alot but wanted to give all the details as to what has happened so far. Thanks!

 

[Burla]

Ignition, but if the battery is more then 3 years old you should have just replaced it. Their tests don't mean a lot.

 

[turkeybird56]

BATTERY. OP, your Avatar shows a Diesel. But you are talking about an older Magnum with single battery. EVERYTHING you are relating sounds like a battery with a bad cell. Will show a decent charge, but under load, a no go. Battery is 1st thing U should replace, everything else 2nd. Bawaaaa on their tests. All this is IMHO only. I am no mechanic.

@Burla Did the 13's have the IBS sensor?

 

[Lui_5793]

BATTERY. OP, your Avatar shows a Diesel. But you are talking about an older Magnum with single battery. EVERYTHING you are relating sounds like a battery with a bad cell. Will show a decent charge, but under load, a no go. Battery is 1st thing U should replace, everything else 2nd. Bawaaaa on their tests. All this is IMHO only. I am no mechanic.

@Burla Did the 13's have the IBS sensor?

I also have a '14 3500. I apologize if that is what is confusing this situation. I did have a load test done at AutoZone and they said its good but like you said, tests probably aren't any good. Did check battery to see if there was a date sticker on it but couldn't find one.

 

[turkeybird56]

I also have a '14 3500. I apologize if that is what is confusing this situation. I did have a load test done at AutoZone and they said its good but like you said, tests probably aren't any good. Did check battery to see if there was a date sticker on it but couldn't find one.

DOES not confuse the issue. I was gonna ask if U had 2 batteries, but since U talking a 1500, when I read post and forgot about your Avatar, disregard. Forget about the age BS, all the symptoms are of a failing battery, but that is just my skerry thoughts. OH, and the pull off the cable off another vehicle and marry up cables, U may wanna rethink dat stuff, especially with advanced electronics on both vehicles, unless U jumping from say a 68 Chevy, but still bad for your electronics.

You could also trace all cable connections, and make sure they are good and ground points also. Especially if the truck was not originally in a warm climate. BUT I still stand by my info in post # 3 BATTERY. I had a 4 month Duralast AGM that went bad in MY 19, there is no QC anymore on these things, but not just batteries.

But I could be 100% wrong, cause BOIRDS not known as being perfect, lol.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BELOW: FYI ONLY (not apply to your situation currently, future stuff)

See URL below: One of these old style a lot better than the new Digital stuff, just my opinion, but I's a Boird. Used as a reference, not sure if I would get HF or not, as I have a digital tester, lmao but my Battery charger is like 30 years old, hee hee. And I would use a multi meter to check battery accurately.

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[Lui_5793]

DOES not confuse the issue. I was gonna ask if U had 2 batteries, but since U talking a 1500, when I read post and forgot about your Avatar, disregard. Forget about the age BS, all the symptoms are of a failing battery, but that is just my skerry thoughts. OH, and the pull off the cable off another vehicle and marry up cables, U may wanna rethink dat stuff, especially with advanced electronics on both vehicles, unless U jumping from say a 68 Chevy, but still bad for your electronics.

You could also trace all cable connections, and make sure they are good and ground points also. Especially if the truck was not originally in a warm climate. BUT I still stand by my info in post # 3 BATTERY. I had a 4 month Duralast AGM that went bad in MY 19, there is no QC anymore on these things, but not just batteries.

But I could be 100% wrong, cause BOIRDS not known as being perfect, lol.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BELOW: FYI ONLY (not apply to your situation currently, future stuff)

See URL below: One of these old style a lot better than the new Digital stuff, just my opinion, but I's a Boird. Used as a reference, not sure if I would get HF or not, as I have a digital tester, lmao but my Battery charger is like 30 years old, hee hee. And I would use a multi meter to check battery accurately.

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

I did put a multimeter on battery with key off and showed 12v but who knows what it would look like with key on. Everything else, I have been going off of what the display says.

 

[Lui_5793]

update: just got home and swapped the driver side battery from my 3500 to the 1500 and does the same thing

 

[turkeybird56]

OP, so hard ref Internet Guessnosis. If U got the same thing: than something in the Ignition Circuit. DO U have power to all just no start? Do you have headlights that turn on? If so, turn on headlights and turn ignition switch: Do headlights still stay bright or do they go dim or out? Your ignition switch/win module in vehicle may be bad too.


@Burla
@Wild one

Any thoughts. Possibility ignition switch? IBS sensor shorted out if the 13's have one? WILD: Would a shorted out IBS cause OP's issues?
_________________________________________________________________________________
JUST to show you location of IBS.

see URL: Do U have this part on negative cable? Just hit the link, do not worry what it says..

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

_________________________________________________________________________________

U have done way beyond stuff I would have thought. Have U put a voltmeter, DC checker on starter where cable carrying power to the starter to see if U EVEN have power at the starter?

OP, U just might have to find your favorite good local mechanic and get it into them. U have fired the Parts Cannon at it so much. Honestly, just reading on Internet?
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
This is Just me thinking out loud: Old trick, use insulated screwdriver and with ignition switch on, jump the posts on the solenoid on starter (E brake on, wheels chocked) (If it turns over, then something bad in ignition circuit somewhere). NOW, I say do not do this, get truck into a mechanic and pay the $$$$. There is something screwy in your ignition system and gonna take somebody there and versed to assist U.

 

[Burla]

I have a hard time deciphering the backstory, I would look at ignition. It is common no codes to be ignition, but granted some of the other stuff appears not to be, hard to tell.

 

[Lui_5793]

I have a hard time deciphering the backstory, I would look at ignition. It is common no codes to be ignition, but granted some of the other stuff appears not to be, hard to tell.

I understand that the backstory is confusing in a way but essentially it was this: Started truck no problem in the morning, went to go and do some leaf clean up on some yards I have that are on the same road but 2-3 blocks away from each other. Cleaned up one yard and drove to my next two, left hazard lights on, returned to truck after nearly two hours of working on yard, tried to start truck, truck would not start at all afterwards. Noticed volage was reading 9v (went off of display reading), had wife come with jumper cables to jump truck, truck read 13v, still nothing. I used a different key fob but that did nothing. Its not starter or battery, don't know what could've happened with me just driving down the road a few blocks. Last time it started it had no issue whatsoever.

 

[turkeybird56]

I understand that the backstory is confusing in a way but essentially it was this: Started truck no problem in the morning, went to go and do some leaf clean up on some yards I have that are on the same road but 2-3 blocks away from each other. Cleaned up one yard and drove to my next two, left hazard lights on, returned to truck after nearly two hours of working on yard, tried to start truck, truck would not start at all afterwards. Noticed volage was reading 9v (went off of display reading), had wife come with jumper cables to jump truck, truck read 13v, still nothing. I used a different key fob but that did nothing. Its not starter or battery, don't know what could've happened with me just driving down the road a few blocks. Last time it started it had no issue whatsoever.

BURLA and WILD ONE are way better versed than me. U have done all and way more than I can think of. OP, just putting this link here as a reference:

WIN Module Bypassing??

Hello, first I may be posting in the wrong place,, wasn’t 100% sure where this should go. I have a 2014 dodge ram 1500 with the 5.7 at the mill where I work. We are having trouble with the WIN module/ key fob starting the truck. You have to hold pressure on the fob and turn off and on multiple...

www.ramforum.com

U really have done so much, time for your local favorite mechanic, IMHO.

 

[Lui_5793]

OP, so hard ref Internet Guessnosis. If U got the same thing: than something in the Ignition Circuit. DO U have power to all just no start? Do you have headlights that turn on? If so, turn on headlights and turn ignition switch: Do headlights still stay bright or do they go dim or out? Your ignition switch/win module in vehicle may be bad too.


@Burla
@Wild one

Any thoughts. Possibility ignition switch? IBS sensor shorted out if the 13's have one? WILD: Would a shorted out IBS cause OP's issues?
_________________________________________________________________________________
JUST to show you location of IBS.

see URL: Do U have this part on negative cable? Just hit the link, do not worry what it says..

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

_________________________________________________________________________________

U have done way beyond stuff I would have thought. Have U put a voltmeter, DC checker on starter where cable carrying power to the starter to see if U EVEN have power at the starter?

OP, U just might have to find your favorite good local mechanic and get it into them. U have fired the Parts Cannon at it so much. Honestly, just reading on Internet?
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
This is Just me thinking out loud: Old trick, use insulated screwdriver and with ignition switch on, jump the posts on the solenoid on starter (E brake on, wheels chocked) (If it turns over, then something bad in ignition circuit somewhere). NOW, I say do not do this, get truck into a mechanic and pay the $$$$. There is something screwy in your ignition system and gonna take somebody there and versed to assist U.

Headlights, high beam, turn signals, cab lights, brake lights, etc. all work. And my truck does have that sensor on the negative cable.

 

[turkeybird56]

Headlights, high beam, turn signals, cab lights, brake lights, etc. all work. And my truck does have that sensor on the negative cable.

When U turn key, with lights on, do they dim, or just stay bright and no crank? Also, confirm U have power at starter solenoid. After all this, dunno, local mechanic U trust.

 

[Lui_5793]

When U turn key, with lights on, do they dim, or just stay bright and no crank?

They stay on for a little while until the system, i assume, tells the lights to turn off (I have headlights on auto). They don't dim at all from what I saw but I can double check when I get home tonight. When I do turn the key to 'run' the lights continue to stay on but don't dim from what I remember, just stereo and whatever I have in the cigarette lighter turn off and come back on. Its kind of like the truck is registering the truck starting and all systems turn off for a sec then boot up when the truck actually runs, that's what it is doing from what it looks like.

 

[turkeybird56]

They stay on for a little while until the system, i assume, tells the lights to turn off (I have headlights on auto). They don't dim at all from what I saw but I can double check when I get home tonight. When I do turn the key to 'run' the lights continue to stay on but don't dim from what I remember, just stereo and whatever I have in the cigarette lighter turn off and come back on. Its kind of like the truck is registering the truck starting and all systems turn off for a sec then boot up when the truck actually runs, that's what it is doing from what it looks like.

Honestly, U have done so much. Wild one and Burla the guys. Me thinks just needs to go to someone versed. Give him entire list of what you have done. My only thoughts, skeery, something in the ignition system: maybe bad switch, U R beyond my knowledge of common sense stuff to check which is why I say Wild One or Burla. Best of luck. Whateva it turns out to be, pls report back.

Got critters to feed, G/L on all this.

 

[Burla]

Maybe work on condensed versions for the masses. So the question would be you went from 8 volts to 13v according to evic? So the issue with it being the ignition would be why is the evic hot? Other then that, I'd say ignition, look up on cleaning win module. Just like the starter, the ignition has a similar setup on the inside, it has a rotational piece that can need cleaning so it can make proper contact when it spins.

If the cig comes off, that can be ignition for sure because that is only hot with ignition. Good info there.

If still really sounds like battery though, I guess not with your work so far, but sounds wonky. Stuff isnt adding up for it to be ignition, but I would still invertisgate that.

 

[Lui_5793]

Maybe work on condensed versions for the masses. So the question would be you went from 8 volts to 13v according to evic? So the issue with it being the ignition would be why is the evic hot? Other then that, I'd say ignition, look up on cleaning win module. Just like the starter, the ignition has a similar setup on the inside, it has a rotational piece that can need cleaning so it can make proper contact when it spins.

If the cig comes off, that can be ignition for sure because that is only hot with ignition. Good info there.

If still really sounds like battery though, I guess not with your work so far, but sounds wonky. Stuff isnt adding up for it to be ignition, but I would still invertisgate that.

Battery to me seems like it is fine but like I said, I did have hazards on for nearly 2 hours which is what leads me to believe the battery has lost charge and reached the 9v.
After swapping with a known good battery from my Ram 3500, it still had the same symptoms.
Again, I apologize for the long story but there is no easy way to recreate all that happened through text and I wanted to include all information as possible to aid in coming to a conclusion.
But as I said, when I do turn the key to 'start' (I know I said 'run' position but it's actually the 'start' position) stereo and any accessories shut off then reboot as if the truck was starting up. Maybe this is another clue to the gremlin of a possible electrical problem.

 

[Burla]

Usually that would mean short somewhere, maybe possible, but same as ignition why would other items come on. That is the hard thing to figure other then battery. Gremlin for sure. You have a TIPM? If you have a TIPM you can bypass ignition to cig lighter to diagnose. I think TIPM uo to year 2016.

If you have a TIPM and this works, you will know it was win module, need a wire and start button...

Dodge Ram WIN module cheap fix (won’t start)

Instead of replacing WIN module just bypass the start function of it by using a push button switch wired into the start relay

youtu.be

 

[Lui_5793]

Usually that would mean short somewhere, maybe possible, but same as ignition why would other items come on. That is the hard thing to figure other then battery. Gremlin for sure. You have a TIPM? If you have a TIPM you can bypass ignition to cig lighter to diagnose. I think TIPM uo to year 2016.

If you have a TIPM and this works, you will know it was win module, need a wire and start button...

Dodge Ram WIN module cheap fix (won’t start)

Instead of replacing WIN module just bypass the start function of it by using a push button switch wired into the start relay

youtu.be

TIPM is the fuse box, correct? Where there is a separate circuit board in fuse box ?

 

[Burla]

TIPM is fuse box, the weakness with the TIPM is the solder joints you cant see under fuse. But regardless, you can use it in this case to bypass ignition to diagnose. All you need is those two wires, one with a start button and one wire. Then the start button becomes your ignition, the circuit is open with the cig lighter hot. Many folks have done that on ram forum. If it works, your win module is the issue, if not probably a short somewhere.