No crank no start

[Lui_5793]

TIPM is fuse box, the weakness with the TIPM is the solder joints you cant see under fuse. But regardless, you can use it in this case to bypass ignition to diagnose. All you need is those two wires, one with a start button and one wire. Then the start button becomes your ignition, the circuit is open with the cig lighter hot. Many folks have done that on ram forum. If it works, your win module is the issue, if not probably a short somewhere.

I've seen some where they remove the WIN module and clean it with either compressed air or electronic cleaner. Think I will try first then see where that takes me

 

[Burla]

You will need a solder sucker and a solder gun for that, you have those?

 

[1 MEAN66]

I did not read everything has I have to go but glanced thru. Will check back later, BUT usually when you go to the crank position (whether key or keyless) and you get a Single loud click (loud enough to hear inside the vehicle) it is power going to the starter solenoid. However internal in the starter that electricity is NOT going to the starter windings. Get a 20 oz. or larger ball-pein hammer, lay under the truck and strike the starter itself - with a good blow- NOT the Solenoid the starter, sometimes the brushes are stuck on the armature. they will bounce of and it will crank. You can even do this while someone else is trying to Crank the engine Crank comes first, no crank no vroom! Hopefully I read enough to help, if not OPPS!

 

[ak rider]

I recently had an intermittant no-crank issue with my 2017 2500 with the 6.4L. I would drive it to work in the morning, and at lunch it wouldn't crank, then a week or two later it would randomly not start in the morning... that kind of thing. Attempting to jump start proved fruitless. Would just have to keep trying, and wait until it finally cranked. And when it did, it wasn't sluggish at all... It cranked over strong and fired right up. However, the battery voltage would show a bit low on a multi-meter at times, so I put it on a charger to make sure that wasn't an issue. As my frustration with the problem got more intense, I did finally end up swapping in a new battery anyway, as it was still the 6-year-old factory original. ... no change, and the no-crank events were getting more frequent - now doing it up to 3 times in a week.

Finally, after going down a bunch of internet rabbit holes, I crawled under the truck and pulled the starter. Then I took some 600-grit sandpaper to all the electrical connections on the starter: every terminal, post, washer, and nut flange on the starter itself and its wires, including the ground strap from the solenoid to the starter motor. Then I cleaned everything up with some brake cleaner sprayed on a rag and smeared a very thin coating of dielectric grease on everything that I had sanded, and put it all back together.

I haven't had a single no-crank event in the 4-ish weeks since. Who knows, maybe it was all coincidental. Maybe not. But if it doesn't help the OP, maybe it'll help someone else.

 

[Marshall]

sounds like battery, poor jumper cables can show 13 v with no load, but hit the starter and not good enough connection and no start. If you have real HD clamps then I could see other problems.

 

[BillyNC]

I see you've replaced the starter once, but with a reman. I suggest another brand name starter. But first, instead of using a screwdriver to short the terminals, you can by a push button switch from a part store you can clamp to the starter to rule out ignition problems. It's safe because you don't have to be under the truck, and you'll be closer to the ignition switch.

 

[Lui_5793]

Sorry for not being present for the last few days. I ended up taking my truck to a trusted mechanic on Tuesday and was just now told that it's one of two things: Key fob or ignition switch. Will find out more later today but everything else seems to be working fine and getting the proper connectivity needed.

 

[Mister Luck]

Sorry for not being present for the last few days. I ended up taking my truck to a trusted mechanic on Tuesday and was just now told that it's one of two things: Key fob or ignition switch. Will find out more later today but everything else seems to be working fine and getting the proper connectivity needed.

Unexpected no start

I was driving my 2005 2500 149K miles 5.7 Hemi today after a two month layup inside storage building....drove about 60 miles to make a delivery....filled it with fuel and headed home...Check engine orange light came on about 20 miles after fuel but truck ran fine....got home for about an hour...

www.ramforum.com

 

[Marshall]

I have a 14 sport with pushbutton start and touchless doors., so fob just stays in the pocket.
2 times it has locked me out, no unlock, no lights coming on, ie everything dead,
Last time it happened I was up town at night, and I did not have the door key as I had left the key ring out at home, So I bought new battery for the fob, no help.
Phoned wife, in bed ,So you know how that went, almost better to walk home.
She brought up her fob, still would not work, but I could unlock the door and use the fob to push the start button and the truck started.
Make sure to keep the door key with you , so you can open the door.

This happened one other time, and it would start with the fob pushing the button, as it tells you in the book.
After wards it always has worked fine, last time was about 3 yrs ago , and the time before was afew yrs as well.

May not help you , but I don't think it is a fob problem if some stuff works. a fob works or it don't, if you have pushbutton start and lights come on then you have a signal.
Have you put a meter on the battery and seen what battery volt is while you try to start?
It should be close to 12v, thou I have never check on this truck to see what crank voltage is.

I still have the factory battery in this , it sits in the garage , about 82,000KM's now as O have been retired for 14 ys, and don't pull trailer around.

Happy New year to you all , sorry about the long post

 

[Lui_5793]

So, I took it to a mechanic my dad has but he wasn’t able to pin point what it could be. I already called another shop that said they have the equipment to diagnose the issue but can’t fit me in until this coming Thursday. So here’s what I did so far: took truck back home, got a remote starter switch, removed exciter wire to starter and used alligator clamp on terminal and other clip to battery positive, engine turns over fine when in the run position but doesn’t want to start. Am I missing something to bypass the ignition or something else bad?

 

[turkeybird56]

No fuel? Fuel relay??? Not sure how coil packs are energized to hit in sequence, need a better mechanic person than me. But just grabbing at straws. Turning over, not start I think fuel and/or spark.

 

[Mister Luck]

So, I took it to a mechanic my dad has but he wasn’t able to pin point what it could be. I already called another shop that said they have the equipment to diagnose the issue but can’t fit me in until this coming Thursday. So here’s what I did so far: took truck back home, got a remote starter switch, removed exciter wire to starter and used alligator clamp on terminal and other clip to battery positive, engine turns over fine when in the run position but doesn’t want to start. Am I missing something to bypass the ignition or something else bad?

Air temp, crank position, cam position and coolant temp have to be within default tolerances

 

[Lui_5793]

well I have my basic obd2 scanner here now and it shows that I have a P0073 and P0123 currently. And also a P0562 for system voltage low. Currently have the 1500 being jumped by my 3500 due to battery running low. For some reason, when we tried to pull the truck to the first mechanic, we couldn’t get the key fob out of the ignition once we put the truck in neutral so battery died on the way there due to system being on the entire way. Took about 30 minutes to get to the mechanic.

 

[Mister Luck]

It might be the drive by wire adjustment on the floor pedal ? ( APP sensor)

 

[Lui_5793]

Everything is connect where it should be. I hear the fuel pump run, once I let off the remote switch, I hear something from the injectors, possible the coils de-energizing. No idea what else could be preventing the vehicle from starting.

 

[Lui_5793]

I got my spark tester (bulb) and removed the lower spark plug boot off of cylinder 1 (it was the easiest to get to without having to remove the coil pack on top of the top row spark plugs) and remote started but see no spark.