No Crank, No Start

[Apcross]

I’m in need of some advice from you guys on what I should look at first for this no crank situation. Trucks been running just fine other than having an issue with “shift solenoid A electrical”. Anyways, the truck ran just fine up until this morning when I was about to leave for work. I turned the key to start it, nothing. I turned the key back off and back on again, it cranked but no start. Now it won’t even crank at all. I hit the starter a few times with a hammer and nothing. My radio went out a few weeks ago and passenger window only works intermittently, so I’m kind of leaning towards ignition switch issue. Anybody else have this same issue in the past? Thank you.

Forgot to mention that my battery is all good

 

[Hemit]

Lotsa possible causes but check Thing Number 1A First -

Get a $20 DVM/DMM and measure the resistance from Battery Negative(-) Lead Post to block in Ohms. Notice- Battery Negative Lead Post, not the terminal, connector, wire, nut, screw, or any other point. You should see less than One (1) ohm resistance. Also measure resistance from Battery Postive(+) Lead Post to any hot point like starter. You should see less than One (1) ohm resistance. Note- Visual inspection is not enough, you gotta measure.

My 08 Hemi 2500 6spd failed with no crank / no start / no dash. Jump started fine off RUNNING vehicle. Would not crank when jumping off reg battery voltage (12.7). No dash, no lites, nothing. But everything worked when jumped off RUNNING vehicle with alt output at 14.7, even with 1V drop across jumper cables. After starting, truck ran fine on disconnected jumper & disconnected battery. Obviously... bad battery, right? So I replaced it on warranty (thx NTB). No Luck.

Inspected all fuses & tested power on both sides of each. A couple light circuts came out ~10V+ but starter & control circuits were 12.7V. Considered a short to ground (obv) but zero DC current with/without key. Tried alternate smart key in case my main key somehow was a problem. Considered bad power wire to controller somewhere in harness but.... decided to check Thing Number 1A First.

Found 3K-4K ohm resistance from Battery Negative Lead Post to block. Traced back to..... battery ground terminal and wire connect to frame. Frame to block resistance was 0.4 ohm. Control circuits were not getting full battery power unless I raised input voltage to overcome ground resistance by jumping off -running- alternator at 14.5+ volts.

Replaced terminals with new (scrape off powder coat at connect points), steel brushed & flat filed all connectors & frame screw / washer / mount point. Re-measured resistance from battery Neg Lead Post to block at 0.4 ohms.

Dash came back & truck started fine on its own battery.