Issue with trailer running lights

[bobbarkee]

So i have a 2010 ram 3500. I recently repaired my trailer lights because the plug had a bad ground. After the ground was fixed everything worked except the trailer running lights. I traced everything and had no issues in the wiring. So I ended up taking to a stealership and they said I need a new TIPM and quoted me almost $2000. I can't afford this. So is there any other options to get these lights working? Can I tap into my tail lights running lights? Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Ken226]

Maybe something like this:

Ram 3500 TIPM Engine Control Computers

Ram 3500 TIPM Engine Control Computers. Diesel ECM Exchange offers ECM, TCM, and PCM auto computer control units for Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, and Plymouth vehicles.

dieselecmexchange.com

 

[bobbarkee]

Maybe something like this:

Ram 3500 TIPM Engine Control Computers

Ram 3500 TIPM Engine Control Computers. Diesel ECM Exchange offers ECM, TCM, and PCM auto computer control units for Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, and Plymouth vehicles.

dieselecmexchange.com

They dont ship to Canada.

 

[Ken226]

Bummer.

There are a few other places around that can repair or replace TIPM's. Maybe one of our members from up in Canukistan will spot this thread and chime in with a recommendation.

 

[turkeybird56]

Gonna state obvious. On my 2019 the trailer lights are run by a blue cartridge fuse and I cannot plug in 7 pin if any power to pin will blow fuse. Checked the trailer lights fuse? In other words truck has to be off and no lights on. Gotta be a ground issue somewhere on my trailer I just too lazy to find just use work a round.

Trailer running lights different fuse than brake lights.

Added: my neighbor has an older trailer hooks up with 4 pin. He just went to Wally World and bought the portable set that are magnetic that runs off of 4 pin instead of trying to screw with wiring. A way you could use your trailer in a pinch. He has the problem with running lights and all fuses good.

 

[bobbarkee]

Gonna state obvious. On my 2019 the trailer lights are run by a blue cartridge fuse and I cannot plug in 7 pin if any power to pin will blow fuse. Checked the trailer lights fuse? In other words truck has to be off and no lights on. Gotta be a ground issue somewhere on my trailer I just too lazy to find just use work a round.

Trailer running lights different fuse than brake lights.

Added: my neighbor has an older trailer hooks up with 4 pin. He just went to Wally World and bought the portable set that are magnetic that runs off of 4 pin instead of trying to screw with wiring. A way you could use your trailer in a pinch. He has the problem with running lights and all fuses good.

I bought a brand new 20k capacity trailer. So I definitely need to use the 7 pin for brakes. Also I've tested end for end amd dodge did as well so its for sure the tipm.

 

[turkeybird56]

Well, are the lights inop on the 7 pin, but do the trailer brakes still work when plugged in? If the brakes still work and U are able to set with TT, you could still use the temp lights with magnets to give you lighting to use the trailer.

Just trying to come up with a way so you can use trailer if really needed, so you will have lighting on the trailer. Only work a round I can think of besides the monster expense of TIPM.

Best I can think of besides a whole new TIPM> Good Luck with your issues.

ADDED:
As far as tapping in, well that is the way used to do with U Haul for years, just not know if the Canbus will handle the added draw, which is why I suggest using the temp lights as long as U have trailer brakes through the 7 pin.

 

[bobbarkee]

Well, are the lights inop on the 7 pin, but do the trailer brakes still work when plugged in? If the brakes still work and U are able to set with TT, you could still use the temp lights with magnets to give you lighting to use the trailer.

Just trying to come up with a way so you can use trailer if really needed, so you will have lighting on the trailer. Only work a round I can think of besides the monster expense of TIPM.

Best I can think of besides a whole new TIPM> Good Luck with your issues.

ADDED:
As far as tapping in, well that is the way used to do with U Haul for years, just not know if the Canbus will handle the added draw, which is why I suggest using the temp lights as long as U have trailer brakes through the 7 pin.

Everything works through the 7 pin besides the running lights. I have no power from the tipm to the trailer running lights. But every single other thing on the entire truck and trailer work.

 

[turkeybird56]

WELL heck, buy a set of Magnetic Lighting and carry on. Get you where you need to go, have lighting too. At least a way you could use your trailer till you finally get a resolution to the issue. All I got for you. Other than maybe to tap into the existing rear lighting on truck, but not sure you would draw enough current to run lighting that way without throwing a code, I would be real apprehensive on that, but your ride.

 

[LouM]

Do you have power to the fuse for the running lights?
If so if you check on the underside of the tipm are the wires connected properly.
I have seen wires get pushed out of position on a few fuse blocks.
From what I can see all that the tipm block is, is relays and fuses.
Checking for actual input signals and the wiring connections on fuses and relays should clear up the issues.
If that fails.
With power at the a fuse with the truck lights on, a fuse tap and a new wire run to the 7 pin should have you back up.

 

[markabby]

does your truck have all lights working? kinda strange the trailer lights won't work. I'll presume you checked voltage at the truck plug, and the fuse voltage as well?

maybe this will help....

RAM 1500 fuse box diagrams for all years - StartMyCar

www.startmycar.com

 

[Racer9]

If you tap into the truck running lights use a relay so you don't overload that circuit.

 

[Dean2]

Do you have power to the fuse for the running lights?
If so if you check on the underside of the tipm are the wires connected properly.
I have seen wires get pushed out of position on a few fuse blocks.
From what I can see all that the tipm block is, is relays and fuses.
Checking for actual input signals and the wiring connections on fuses and relays should clear up the issues.
If that fails.
With power at the a fuse with the truck lights on, a fuse tap and a new wire run to the 7 pin should have you back up.

This. No way should you need a completely rebuilt TIPM to fix a small problem like this. If there is power to the incoming side, pretty easy to fix outgoing. If there is no power to the incoming side, then the problem isn't the TIPM, unless the incoming wire is not plugged into the block..

 

[bobbarkee]

Do you have power to the fuse for the running lights?
If so if you check on the underside of the tipm are the wires connected properly.
I have seen wires get pushed out of position on a few fuse blocks.
From what I can see all that the tipm block is, is relays and fuses.
Checking for actual input signals and the wiring connections on fuses and relays should clear up the issues.
If that fails.
With power at the a fuse with the truck lights on, a fuse tap and a new wire run to the 7 pin should have you back up.

The fuse for the lights isn't blown and has no power on either side of it with the running lights on. Ill try to pull out the tipm and see what the wires look like.

 

[62Blazer]

When you pull the TIPM I would double check to see if you output power right at the TIPM to the trailer running light circuit (not at the wire leaving the TIPM, but where the wire actually connects). That would just verify where the power is cut off.
Otherwise I would think it would be simple make a splice to get power. I would run a separate power wire (like fused from the battery or other power supply) through a relay, with the relay being controlled by a running light power source.

 

[LouM]

That would lead me to believe that there is a relay someplace that should be energizing when the truck running/parking lights are on which would feed through and too that fuse holder.
Without a wiring schematic for that truck you are kind of peeing into the wind.

 

[04fxdwgi]

That would lead me to believe that there is a relay someplace that should be energizing when the truck running/parking lights are on which would feed through and too that fuse holder.
Without a wiring schematic for that truck you are kind of peeing into the wind.

Relay is probably on the TIPM board itself. Don't have a drawing for the '10, so can't verify.

 

[FIRE UP]

Well Gang,
This kind of scenario where simple running lights get sooooooooooooo dam... complicated because they're tied in with the TIPM. And when a $1.25 diode or resistor fails, or, even say a $100 micro processor fails in that TIPM, you, as the end user, get to pay whatever a dealer wants to charge, in this case a $1,000 JUST to get the simply running lights working again and power up the trailer running lights. It was soooooooooooo simple in the old days. EVERYTHING WORKED, and it worked EVERY SINGLE TIME, unless there was a bad ground or a blown bulb.

The OP, and anyone else that has a 7-pin plug installed from the factory, should be able to use those without fail. As for plugging in the 7-pin plug from a trailer to the 7-pin receptacle on the truck WHILE the truck is running or ignition is ON, well, we have a new-to-us '21 Ram 1500 Crew Cab Laramie 4x4 Ecodiesel and I've plugged the boat trailer into that 7-pin receptacle on the truck while the truck is running, several times and absolutely nothing has happened to the trucks electrical system or the TIPM. Each time, the trailers running lights immediately light up when the plug is inserted. Those systems, TIPM and anything else involved should, I say SHOULD be able to take a jolt of a load, such as plugging in a trailer WITHOUT doing any damage to any portion of th electrical system.

Ram can't even possibly think that every single truck owner, for every single truck they sell, will MAKE SURE that the truck is COMPLETELY OFF BEFORE plugging in any trailer(s). If damage to the TIPM would take place every single time a Ram owner plugged in a 7-pin connector to the trucks plug while it was running or ON, all Ram chassis RV's, trucks, commercial trucks, towing trucks all over the planet would be blowing the TIPM and Ram would be inundated with phone calls/complaints by the hundreds of thousands.

Not that this would help the OP at present, or anyone else, I finally built my new little toy/tool that really helps with both the new wiring of a trailer/toad (vehicle towed behind an RV) and the occasional testing of existing wiring of all trailers and toads with a 7-pin connector. It's simply a box with a 12V battery in it and it's wired through a set of toggle switches to the 7-pin female (truck/RV side) female connector. When I want to check either of the vehicles we tow, the Ram or, our '15 Jeep JKUR Rubicon, or, our Bennington Tri-toon boat trailer's lights, I simply carry the box, which is nothing but a small Harbor Freight Ammo box, over to the receptacle for any of those three and plug in the box to it. Then, I begin flipping the switches, one by one, to send power to what ever circuit I want to test, running, right turn, left turn, Brakes and even 12V power if it's equipped. It just makes insuring that all trailer/toad lights are working correctly WITHOUT using any of the vehicles as power to test the systems.
Scott

 

[Guitar Guy]

I have wired several trailers and they all work fine when plugged into my Ram's 7-way. But then I have never used the aux pin. Is that the issue?

FIREUP, your test box is genius if you do a lot of trailer wiring work.

 

[FIRE UP]

Guitar Guy,
I thank you for the nice comment. I don't do a "lot" of trailer work, just some once in a while. I had that 12V battery hanging around for testing LED's and stuff that I have a hobby in. I figured, heck, why not use that battery and get a little box from H/F and see if I can build one of those testers. it took me about a day to build and it was a fun project. I've since installed an SAE (2-pin plug) on it for when I want to acquire power for my testing of my LED projects.
Scott