Jba longtubes

[Needaram]

Anyone have experience with these? Can you bolt up your factory y pipe? I would love to purchase ARH but that's a big price difference

 

[Feli]

I think you have to buy there y pipe

 

[Hemi450hp]

The stock Y-pipe will not work with any longtube headers. You will either need to get the JBA Y-pipe to go with it, or have a local shop build a new set of mid pipes for you.

 

[Needaram]

1 7/8 primaries are probably too big for a stock engine right?

 

[DILLIGAF]

Yeah you want 1 3/4, I was in the same boat a couple weeks ago trying to figure all of it out.

I ended up with BBK ceramic coated headers, ( thats all that was available in Canada that fit into my Budget ) + Stage 8 bolts and Remflex Gasket and it bolts right up to factory exhaust.

from my research I also ended up ordering a Magnaflow Y pipe to help with flow.

 

[Paluby]

1 7/8 primaries are probably too big for a stock engine right?

Lots of guys are running 1-7/8" on the Gen IV and producing very respectable numbers on the quarter mile.

 

[Gamester]

Yea, 7/8 JBA long tubes are what people have recommended to me on here as well so I assume they fit fine.

So, if one were to buy the 7/8 JBAs and their Y-pipe, would everything just bolt up fine without having to weld or modify anything? It would be great to actually be able install these in the garage instead of having a shop do it.

 

[Wild one]

Yea, 7/8 JBA long tubes are what people have recommended to me on here as well so I assume they fit fine.

So, if one were to buy the 7/8 JBAs and their Y-pipe, would everything just bolt up fine without having to weld or modify anything? It would great to actually be able install these in the garage instead of having a shop do it.

Are you 4X4 or 2X4.I put JBA long tubes on my 2014 4X4 and would never buy another set.Nothing wrong with their quality,but their fitment leaves a lot to be desired.Factor in wrapping them with header wrap, even if they're ceramic coated,they damn near rub the brake lines on the drivers side frame rail,also a good chance if your truck is a 4X4 you'll have to bash the front drivers side tube for steering shaft clearance.JBA's catless midpipe might need some re-working to fit around the 8 speed,i cheaped out and bought JBA's,but would never buy another set,bite the bullet and buy ARH's they fit way better.

 

[Gamester]

Hmm, yea it's a 4X4 and that's intresting as I haven't heard that feedback on JBAs on here before. Guess I will take a look at ARH again in that case.

I, along with the original poster, would like to hear any more experiences on the best long tube headers to get for the 5.7.

 

[Paluby]

That's the first person I've heard of having any fitment issues actually.

 

[jwheeler]

I don't think I have seen many fitment issues with the jba headers. Mine went in without issue. I have the ceramic coated long tubes with the jba y-pipe. Header wrap is not needed. That could be a problem with getting them installed. I really like mine.


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[Wild one]

That's the first person I've heard of having any fitment issues actually.

I'm not the only one,i know a girl with a 2012 4X4 that had the same clearance issues around the steering shaft,and the shop that installed hers had to flatten the front tube on hers to,but the midpipe fit around her 6 speed far nicer.On my 4X4 we trimmed the ear on the drivers side motor mount a bit to,as the header tubes ran into the mount.I do know of a 2015 that also had the same issues with the midpipe on his 8 speed.Maybe on the 2 wheel drive trucks they fit,but I know on my 4X4 they didn't fit all that great,maybe other guys haven't had any fitment issues,i'm not gonna argue points all i'm doing is stating what issues we had on my truck.
Charonblk has looked at my truck on the lift and seen how close the headers run to the brake lines,and my recommendation is wrap them,boiling the brake fluid takes the fun out of your day in a hurry

 

[Paluby]

You're the first person I've heard of having fitment issues. Good to know.

 

[jwheeler]

Many of those that don't know they have fitment issues have more false knock issues then you can shake a stick at.

Later finding the issue they had no clue was there after I tell them to check...

How do you know if you have false knock and what should be checked for?

 

[jwheeler]

I'll check. Thanks.


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[Fatboy57]

I know this is an old post but I didn't wanna start a new thread for a few questions. I purchased the jba long tubes and ypipe for my 13 4x4.

Anyone know the torque specs for the headers? Also should I use the bolts and gaskets that come with them? If not which brand is the best? Any tips or tricks besides the oil dip stick needing to be bent?

Finally breaking some good weather in the north east and I can finally install them. It's been crappy staring at them over the past two months and not having installed on the truck.

Thanks!

 

[Wild one]

I know this is an old post but I didn't wanna start a new thread for a few questions. I purchased the jba long tubes and ypipe for my 13 4x4.

Anyone know the torque specs for the headers? Also should I use the bolts and gaskets that come with them? If not which brand is the best? Any tips or tricks besides the oil dip stick needing to be bent?

Finally breaking some good weather in the north east and I can finally install them. It's been crappy staring at them over the past two months and not having installed on the truck.

Thanks!

Good-n-tight,lol. Odds are you won't get a socket on a few of them anyways. Gear wrenches make the job a little nicer. Make sure you re-install the dipstick before you bolt the drivers side header in tight. The bottom dipstick bolt can be a pain to get at and remove.Use the OEM gaskets from the dealer or Remflex gaskets. Good chance you'll end up denting the driver side header to clear the steering shaft,trial fit the header then dent it where it's closest to the knuckle. The motor mounts are soft on these trucks and allow a fair bit of engine movement,so even if it looks like you've got clearance,i'd still dent the one tube ,as they aren't the easiest thing to get at when installed. Buy beer it'll help,lol.

 

[Fatboy57]

Good-n-tight,lol. Odds are you won't get a socket on a few of them anyways. Gear wrenches make the job a little nicer. Make sure you re-install the dipstick before you bolt the drivers side header in tight. The bottom dipstick bolt can be a pain to get at and remove.Use the OEM gaskets from the dealer or Remflex gaskets. Good chance you'll end up denting the driver side header to clear the steering shaft,trial fit the header then dent it where it's closest to the knuckle. The motor mounts are soft on these trucks and allow a fair bit of engine movement,so even if it looks like you've got clearance,i'd still dent the one tube ,as they aren't the easiest thing to get at when installed. Buy beer it'll help,lol.

Thanks for the tips, got my gear wrenches ready lol. So I purchased the OEM gaskets along with the studs and bolts but the new bolts are much longer. Not sure what's going to work best for these headers. The stainless bolts from JBA actually appear more sturdy than the OEM. The OEM gaskets tho look way better imo. Can't wait, excitement finally!

 

[Wild one]

Most guys step up and buy Stage 8 locking fasteners,but there's nothing wrong with the JBA header bolts,and you have them.The Stage 8's aren't cheap,and there's a good chance you won't be able to get all the locking clips on them anyways,i'd use the JBA header bolts as you have them. Just tighten them in good and tight,and in about a week,go back and re-tighten them,and you should be good. The bottom bolt on the dipstick might give you some headaches,alot of guys cut the tab on the dipstick tube off,i did it the hard way and jacked the motor off the motor mount to get enough clearance to get it out,and then there's the odd truck that you can actually get the bolt out on with no issues. The biggest issue is getting the dipstick back in the hole,if you leave the header loose you should be able to get the tube back in place,you'll have to tweak it a bit though.