JL audio C2 3.5 dash VS Infinity Kappa dash speakers

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Witch

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Man, I wish I could tell, since I started this audio deal on my truck I have been trying to read everything i can to try to get the most out of the choices I made.
here is the definition, it is not frequency range or cross over cut off

FS= This parameter is the free-air resonant frequency of a speaker. Simply stated, it is the point at which the weight of the moving parts of the speaker becomes balanced with the force of the speaker suspension when in motion. If you’ve ever seen a piece of string start humming uncontrollably in the wind, you have seen the effect of reaching a resonant frequency. It is important to know this information so that you can prevent your enclosure from ‘ringing’. With a loudspeaker, the mass of the moving parts, and the stiffness of the suspension (surround and spider) are the key elements that affect the resonant frequency. As a general rule of thumb, a lower Fs indicates a woofer that would be better for low-frequency reproduction than a woofer with a higher Fs. This is not always the case though, because other parameters affect the ultimate performance as well.

Not sure what all drivers you have, but you should be able to get the FS value off the manufacture.
For example mine it looks like this

upload_2018-6-13_3-37-30.png

upload_2018-6-13_3-37-47.jpeg

upload_2018-6-13_3-38-15.png

Sub has to cover up to the the roll on of the mid bass so low pass would be set to 132 hz

Mid Bass FS = 66 x2 = High pass set to roll on at 132 Hz

Midrange FS = 200 x2 = High pass set to roll on at 400 Hz , so mid bass rolls off at 400

Tweeter FS = 1370 x2 = High pass set to roll on at 2742 Hz , so midrange would roll off at 2742

it goes on to say slopes is why you the value is x2 to cover the slope from top to bottom to protect the speaker

Seems to me if you have a steeper slope you could decrease the times value on ther FS, say x 1.75 or 1.5 on a very drastic drop off ?

That is total speculation though ???

Just throwing this out there

To be honest I am not so sure this even makes sense, just some stuff I was reading , like I said, better to listen to someone who knows what they are doing
 

adrianp89

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Yeah after seeing your example - those rules suck lol. Midbass at 133? No thanks... 66 would be much closer to ideal. Midrange is in the ballpark. Tweeter could be in the ballpark but I would most careful with that one, still seems a bit low.
 

autokraftgt

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The biggest thing is in the second to last photo. Change the HPF to 80 and slope as high as it goes (prob 18 or 24). Repeat this for the Rear HPF as well.

Also a contributing factor is you are significantly boosting 63hz. I would dial that back a bit. I know you are after volume, but some of the best advice I have received is never boost but to cut around a peak.

This! 80hz HPF will make your sub work a bit longer in the FR...it should do fine too. It will take some responsibilities off your midbass and not work them too hard. If you like loud, I don't think asking a 6.5" speaker to play down to 60hz is a reasonable idea. And yes, increase your slope 8db/oct is not much at all....you don't want speakers "hanging on too long"
Be careful with FS values...they are baselines only...the manufacturer has no idea what type of vehicle the speakers are going into. The truck cabin is your enclosure and it is the worst environment to reproduce music period....audiophiles laugh at us trying to develop sq in a vehicle lol. But that's what an RTA is for..to see what is really going on with the FR.
Adrian is correct....never boost a frequency...cut....and make it up through volume increases. Always cut peaks,,,,,never boost valleys
 

Witch

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Yeah after seeing your example - those rules suck lol. Midbass at 133? No thanks... 66 would be much closer to ideal. Midrange is in the ballpark. Tweeter could be in the ballpark but I would most careful with that one, still seems a bit low.
Lol
Like I said I am just learning
Guess that guy was in left field
 

BWL

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Looking at the data on my midbass the roll off gets pretty big naturally below 100hz. Guess that's why the 90 my subs are set at seems to sound best.15289000391111154987705.jpg
 

Witch

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This tuning deal seems like a lot of work to get everything just right :emotions122:
 

BWL

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Man, I wish I could tell, since I started this audio deal on my truck I have been trying to read everything i can to try to get the most out of the choices I made.
here is the definition, it is not frequency range or cross over cut off

FS= This parameter is the free-air resonant frequency of a speaker. Simply stated, it is the point at which the weight of the moving parts of the speaker becomes balanced with the force of the speaker suspension when in motion. If you’ve ever seen a piece of string start humming uncontrollably in the wind, you have seen the effect of reaching a resonant frequency. It is important to know this information so that you can prevent your enclosure from ‘ringing’. With a loudspeaker, the mass of the moving parts, and the stiffness of the suspension (surround and spider) are the key elements that affect the resonant frequency. As a general rule of thumb, a lower Fs indicates a woofer that would be better for low-frequency reproduction than a woofer with a higher Fs. This is not always the case though, because other parameters affect the ultimate performance as well.

Not sure what all drivers you have, but you should be able to get the FS value off the manufacture.
For example mine it looks like this

View attachment 130815

View attachment 130816

View attachment 130817

Sub has to cover up to the the roll on of the mid bass so low pass would be set to 132 hz

Mid Bass FS = 66 x2 = High pass set to roll on at 132 Hz

Midrange FS = 200 x2 = High pass set to roll on at 400 Hz , so mid bass rolls off at 400

Tweeter FS = 1370 x2 = High pass set to roll on at 2742 Hz , so midrange would roll off at 2742

it goes on to say slopes is why you the value is x2 to cover the slope from top to bottom to protect the speaker

Seems to me if you have a steeper slope you could decrease the times value on ther FS, say x 1.75 or 1.5 on a very drastic drop off ?

That is total speculation though ???

Just throwing this out there

To be honest I am not so sure this even makes sense, just some stuff I was reading , like I said, better to listen to someone who knows what they are doing
All I can say is the look of those speakers would go really well with the woodgrain in a longhorn trimmed truck. I'm sure you'll get it figured out. With the mids there's no need to even try to run the tweeters below 3k though.
 

Witch

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LMAO............ they are all covered up by the grills

yep, will get if figured out, just may take a while, have contemplated just getting a pro to tune it, but they want big bucks to do it
 

BWL

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LMAO............ they are all covered up by the grills

yep, will get if figured out, just may take a while, have contemplated just getting a pro to tune it, but they want big bucks to do it
It's just because it eats up a lot of time tuning it. Seems like you're getting all learner up on the dsp so you'll probably end up making adjustments even after a pro tune. Those speakers are too pretty to hide. Mine are still visible through the grills.15289023675911753786323.jpg
 

Witch

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yea he estimated 5 to 6 hours ? and they want $ 72.00 an hour

Seems a bit excessive, you can see them through the grill
 

TomT

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yea he estimated 5 to 6 hours ? and they want $ 72.00 an hour. Seems a bit excessive.

That's actually not too bad, $100/hr is normal in this area. I'm lucky in that I've been going to the same shop for a loooong time and they've done like 5 systems for me over the years (not including my "I bought this used piece and think it will be better" changes. LOL).

The owner has a very good ear and gives me a nice "base" tune that I can then mess with myself. I always keep his tune on preset 4. That way when I **** things up too much I can always get back to where I started.
 

BWL

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I got all my gear from the same place. I paid a bit extra for the equipment vs online, but they set up a tune for it no charge so I think I came out ahead. I left the truck there a week though and they fiddled with it instead of sweeping the clean floor when there was slow time.
 

autokraftgt

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That's actually not too bad, $100/hr is normal in this area. I'm lucky in that I've been going to the same shop for a loooong time and they've done like 5 systems for me over the years (not including my "I bought this used piece and think it will be better" changes. LOL).

The owner has a very good ear and gives me a nice "base" tune that I can then mess with myself. I always keep his tune on preset 4. That way when I **** things up too much I can always get back to where I started.

Thats a smart idea..keeping the base tune saved. I know a guy local to me who found a tuner off diyma and drove to Chicago to have his truck tuned. The guy tuned it in one day (bad idea) and when the guy I know picked it up he told the guy that it sounded like ****. "I think it sounds sweet" So be careful on who tunes....cause the outcome can be subjective too.
I always follow Whitledge's RTA curve which is actually pretty bass heavy. I firmly believe tuning sessions shouldn't last more than an hour...listening fatigue is a real thing. I fiddle with mine for months and months
 

Witch

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I agree, When I was shopping for speakers even listening from one set to another the sales man said to take a one minute break between sets

he demoed like 4 in a row then listened to them separately

World of difference and helps hear the nuances of each set

I would hope if you get the system tuned by a pro they would use and RTA , have been contemplating grabbing the Audio Frog RTA

https://testgear.audiofrog.com/product/audiofrog-umi-1/

Rafa has one if any of you watch Soundman


 

autokraftgt

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^^That's a cool RTA and the price is awesome
 

88ROOK

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in tuning every music genre is going to be different, so theres no perfect tune and should be ones personal preference. my personal preference in music tuning is using audioslave or tool (bands)recordings just for the reason i think they were recorded to perfection. bass and drums on tool are phenomanal and the guitar and voice on audioslave is second to none
 
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2010 Infantry Vet

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I didnt get around to adjusting my frequencies today, gonna give it a ahot tomorrow. I did end up running a wire to the dash center channel hole from my alpine radio. Installed one of my JL 3.5’s there. It honestly brightened up the sound with the infinity midranges on each side. The JL 3.5 has a pretty decent silk done tweeter.
 
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Witch

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That's great, glad it worked out man, looked like a **** ton of work ripping the dash apart.

Now I am kicking around grabbing that Audio Frog RTA ........... lol
 

autokraftgt

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in tuning every music genre is going to be different, so theres no perfect tune and should be ones personal preference. my personal preference in music tuning is using audioslave or tool (bands)recordings just for the reason i think they were recorded to perfection. bass and drums on tool are phenomanal and the guitar and voice on audioslave is second to none

You are correct sir...there is no perfect tune...I shoot for a happy medium for my entire music catalog which is probably why Iam tweaking for months lol
Tool is always recorded great! I like to tune to them, Michael Jackson, Pink Floyd, Eva Cassidy (to remove symblance ssssss) Paul Simon LIVE, Metallica ***
and I have a few Focal SQ CD's that are really nice. There are many others I am missing....basically my entire catalog lol
 

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