Kicker upgrade

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liljohn30

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So I install the kicker upgrade in my rear doors I haven’t done the front and the dash yet I’m amazed at the lack of base at all from the 6 x 9‘s and when I turn the radio up I get a popping out of them especially on heavier bass songs. I would think that they’re out of phase but I purchased the wiring pieces to clip into the factory wiring... anyone ever run into this issue I wonder if my wiring harness is that I purchased from Crutchfield is wrong
 
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dwhutch

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So I install the kicker upgrade in my rear doors I haven’t done the front and the dash yet I’m amazed at the lack of base at all from the 6 x 9‘s and when I turn the radio up I get a popping out of them especially on heavier bass songs. I would think that they’re out of phase but I purchased the wiring pieces to clip into the factory wiring... anyone ever run into this issue I wonder if my wiring harness is that I purchased from Crutchfield is wrong
I have a 19 classic regular cab and bought speakers from Crutchfield. I checked the polarity of the factory speakers with a battery as they weren't marked. Crutchfield sold me different part number adapters for front and rear 6×9s. I know one of them was wrong, pretty sure it was the back so I reversed the leads.

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liljohn30

liljohn30

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This is what I was thinking .I’ll check everything nthis weekend ..Wish I had a wiring diagram as to what was the positive and negative for the door speakers
 

Ramm5.7

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This is what I was thinking .I’ll check everything nthis weekend ..Wish I had a wiring diagram as to what was the positive and negative for the door speakers

I had to search for this screenshot I saved from a members post.
Also try these pdf from their site

Screenshot_20210126-182657_Photos.jpg

Screenshot_20210126-182550_Photos.jpg
 

dwhutch

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This is what I was thinking .I’ll check everything nthis weekend ..Wish I had a wiring diagram as to what was the positive and negative for the door speakers
Easy to check, take a double a battery and a couple pieces of wire and connect to the speaker, it's going to move the cone in or out based on which way the battery is connected. When it moves out you have the positive end of the battery connected to the positive speaker terminal. Look at which wire on the factory harness goes to that terminal and mark it +.

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liljohn30

liljohn30

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I did that to factory speakers n they didn’t move much,I might need new battery
 
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liljohn30

liljohn30

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I’m gonna do the 900/5 jl audio amp I have ... going to use it to power the kicker speakers I was going to install them in the meantime before I buy the harness and stuff to wire up the amp
 

dwhutch

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I did that to factory speakers n they didn’t move much,I might need new battery
Yea, try a fresh battery, speaker should be disconnected from the truck. Speaker should make a pop or thump noise an the movement should be noticeable.

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regal81455

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I've always used a 9v battery to test, never heard anyone suggest a AA before. Wouldn't seem like it would have a enough oompf to really move the speaker much, it's what 1.5v??
 

Mleads310

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I've used a AA , didn't have a 9v around, recently and it actually worked. Unfortunately in my truck, maybe applies to others, when tracing the pos/neg back to the head unit, and using diagrams, a few of them were reversed from the get go. Assuming it had something to do with the processing etc of the factory system.
 
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liljohn30

liljohn30

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I gave up.LOL I just gonna bring it to get done. I have jl audio amp 900/5 and 600/4
12w6v3 sub and 2 set Boston pro 6.53x I had in storage audio control dm-608
 
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dwhutch

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I've always used a 9v battery to test, never heard anyone suggest a AA before. Wouldn't seem like it would have a enough oompf to really move the speaker much, it's what 1.5v??
I'm cheap!

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