Base System Upgrade Planning/?'s

[cypressd]

Hey Y'all. I'm about to upgrade my base system with everything I've read and learned on here. I truly appreciate everyone's contributions!

So I wanted to get everyone's thoughts and ask a few questions before I start. Thanks in advance for any replies/guidance...

-2022 Ram 1500 5.7 E-Torque with Start/Stop (disabled) Crew Cab w/base 6 speaker, 8.4 UConnect system with ANC

Purchased Components I'm Using:
-Factory Head Unit
-Infinity Reference REF307f 3.5" 2-way's in the dash
-Infinity Reference REF697F 6x9 2-way's in the front doors
-Infinity Primus 693M 6x9 3-way's in the rear doors (extra set of Infinity Reference REF697F 6x9 2-way's also available as an option)
-Kicker Hideaway 51HS10 10" powered sub under the rear bench
-Kicker Key 200.4 amp

Setup:
I'm splitting the front dash and doors and running them through the Kicker Key in bi-amp mode and running the rear doors off the stock head unit for fill. Net Audio is making a harness to bypass the ANC and wire to the amp as well and including the wiring to split the front doors and dash for the bi-amp. I'll be tapping the rear door speakers for the sub signal.


Questions:

1. Do I still need to install capacitors or bass blockers on the front dash speakers to get them back to 8 ohms and protect them from lower frequencies, considering they will be powered by the Kicker Key with built-in DSP? Or will the Key figure all that out for me?
2. The rear door speakers are currently Infinity Primus 3-way 6x9's rated at 60w RMS. I also have an extra pair of Infinity Reference 2-way 6x9's rated at 100w RMS that I could use for the rear doors as well. Considering I'm running them off the factory radio with a full signal but lower power output, which do you think would be the way to go: Use the Primus 3-way 60w or the Reference 2-way at 100w? Will the Primus 60w power rating be a better match for the factory radio? I realize it's just fill and might not even matter, but I figure that since I have both, I might as well go with the better choice.
3. For the Kicker Key install, I can just grab the power and ground from the ANC bypass harness, correct? I don't need to run a seperate power line to the battery or anything?
4. For the Kicker Hideaway sub, I wasn't planning on using a LOC or any DSP. By tapping into the rear speakers for signal it will be getting a full signal from the factory radio. Does the factory radio have any built-in tuning or bass attuning in it that would mess with the sub to where I'll need a LOC with DSP or anything?
5. Is there anything else you can think of that I should be aware of or be taking into consideration?

 

[MxChris]

Yes use the bass blockers on your tweeters, active or not you should protect them.

I know everyone raves about those Infinity 6x9 speakers but I thought they were just OK, uninstalled them and used JL audio and a proper tune. The 3.5's were a huge upgrade though. I'd still use those Infinity out of the two.

You need to run a proper power and ground made of OFC or you will cause a fire. No shortcuts here.

You need a LOC/DSP.

While the doors are apart do some sound deadening, these doors will give up no midbass unless you do a lot of sound deadening with different products. You're wasting your time and money putting in better speakers if you dont. CLD the door skins with 80mil or better, use a foam like resonix or similar between the door panel and door card.

 

[rotwiler]

I have a 21 bighorn non e-tq 8.4, base audio. The 8 ohm in dash is for stock, your key 200.4 is 4ohm. I bought a pac ch01 anc bypass, wired the key 200.4 to it, nothing else was needed. The anc uses 30A fuse, the key 200.4 is 25A. Of course you could run a wire to battery, but I checked all wires and none get hot. Eventually I may run a 8g to battery. The ch01 harness you cut the harness, then wire the speaker wires coming from ch01 to the speaker input of the 200.4, wire the harness you cut to the output on 200.4. Even the speaker wire and ch01 harness are same color. I wired mine up, went out and plugged in, can remove in 2 seconds and back to stock, no stock wires cut, super easy and $25 for harness. I installed jbl 6x9 in rear doors and kenwood component 6x9+3.5 in dash, but wasn't crazy about dash, so replaced with shca 3.5 neodyme speakers and they get louder and I like them, crossover point was same as kenwoods 3.5s. I may bi am fronts eventually, but sounds great. Bass was pretty good too. But I installed a 1300watt rms d4s jp13 amp running it at 2ohms and 2 audiocontrol spike 10s in a fox ported box for my quad cab. Happy with sound quality now. Adding 2 way 6x9 to door and 3.5 in dash I haven't tried, both my Rams the doors I only used for mid bass. I did add a little butyl sound deadening and self stick high density foam in areas, no rattles so far.