Leveled, wanting to lift questions

[MissBehavior]

Hey guys so I have a 2.5 level kit on my 2011 4x4 and its still raking. If I win this contest, then I'll be able to get a lift kit off their site with the $2k prize.
Anyway, what size back lift should I get? They have a 3 inch lift and a 5 inch lift. I want a 6 inch lift for the front... and a friend recommended using my level kit on top of the suspension lift for added lift. Is that safe? I would much rather "cali lean" than rake..


And heres the 6 inchsuspension lift I want, yes I have decided I want this lift kit so please don't try to talk me out of it! https://www.realtruck.com/zone-off-road-suspension-lift-kits/R183303P2011Y2712MA.html

 

[JDW123]

So you would rather look like a squat ******* dog than be level? Just go with the 6" all the way around and run some 37s.

 

[brandonjansen]

The rear lift setup you want to run depends on how exactly you want the truck to sit and what you want to do on the front end. If you install just the 6" kit with nothing else up front then you'll want the 3" rear springs. However that's not going to give you what you want as you will likely still have some rake. The better setup for you will be the 5" rear springs and getting a set of Bilstein 5100's to lift the front end more and get the truck sitting level or slightly nose high (if desired). This can only be done with Bilstein 5100's or equivalent (such as Fox coilovers or potentially Rancho Quicklifts). You can't use your 2.5" leveling spacers with the lift kit.

 

[RAMblin1217]

Brandon beat me to it, but agree 100% with him. You'll have to have something to adjust the front like the Bils 5100. I currently have a 2-3" rake in the rear but the only reason I won't level the front is so I can still get in my garage (worlds weirdest driveway gives me only 2" of clearance on a 7' door even though it's only a 4" lift). Your leveling kit becomes null and void once a suspension lift is installed. I did see your tire/rim setup and you may have issues with a rub at full lock, I'm not the expert on that ^ he is, but just something I noticed.

PS nobody should bash Zone...mostly only rough and tuff country get laughs.

 

[RAMblin1217]

PS essentially what we are saying is those front shocks/struts with the kit become useless and have to be replaced with adjustable ones. That being said, if you're trying to have a 100% zone lift, you won't be able to do that and have it level. Not trying to change your mind, but it almost seems worth it to buy the Super Lift kit with the Bilsteins already included instead of having to buy 2 new front shocks/struts to replace the Zones. The Bilsteins will cost like $250 total so kinda crazy to use 1/8 of your winnings just to get the kit you like fixed to level like you want. But again, Zone is a good product and I'm not trying to change your mind, just saying it's easier to order the other kit...

 

[MissBehavior]

Great thanks guys, and no I dont want it squatted at all, I've heard that lift kits settle after awhile and end up raking. So if I got the 6 in front and 3 in back and it cali leaned a bit, then leveled out I would be fine with that

 

[SilverSurfer15]

I find it hard to believe that truck is 2.5" in the front only. It looks like the back has a 1" spacer or the front is leveled ~1.5".

Anyways... if you call them and order, you can probably get the kit discounted without the parts you don't need. So if you don't want the shocks, I'm sure they can knock some money off of it.

Also, a lot of online dealers carry Zone so be sure to shop around. You never know who might have the best price, free shipping, etc.

 

[MissBehavior]

yeah, its weird but it is leveled on a 2.5 rough country (ew I know) I watched it get put on. I guess it was just raking so badly up front that the 2.5 just didnt help much. And nope nothing on back, stock height

 

[SilverSurfer15]

Great thanks guys, and no I dont want it squatted at all, I've heard that lift kits settle after awhile and end up raking. So if I got the 6 in front and 3 in back and it cali leaned a bit, then leveled out I would be fine with that

On this type of application, that doesn't really happen. the lift kit is literally just using steel spacers to push everything down, so there is nothing to "settle". Its not really a thing with a strut based suspension.

The rear springs might start to sag over time, but I mean like yearsss unless you constantly load the bed with heavy loads.

 

[brandonjansen]

PS essentially what we are saying is those front shocks/struts with the kit become useless and have to be replaced with adjustable ones. That being said, if you're trying to have a 100% zone lift, you won't be able to do that and have it level. Not trying to change your mind, but it almost seems worth it to buy the Super Lift kit with the Bilsteins already included instead of having to buy 2 new front shocks/struts to replace the Zones. The Bilsteins will cost like $250 total so kinda crazy to use 1/8 of your winnings just to get the kit you like fixed to level like you want. But again, Zone is a good product and I'm not trying to change your mind, just saying it's easier to order the other kit...

For the record, most lift kits including Zone don't provide new front struts. They use the stock struts with a combination of a strut spacer and preload spacer. If if you use Bilsteins you still use the OEM hardware and springs. So it's not really easier to order a Superlift kit at all. The lift components of either one are almost identical and the Bilsteins are an added option to either one. (Superlifts standard kits don't come with Bilsteins FYI)

Great thanks guys, and no I dont want it squatted at all, I've heard that lift kits settle after awhile and end up raking. So if I got the 6 in front and 3 in back and it cali leaned a bit, then leveled out I would be fine with that

As SilverSurfer said, a lift kit won't settle. A Zone lift uses your stock struts including the springs and just adds a preload spacer and strut spacer for the additional lift. If you added Bilsteins they use the stock springs as well.

 

[RAMblin1217]

For the record, most lift kits including Zone don't provide new front struts. They use the stock struts with a combination of a strut spacer and preload spacer. If if you use Bilsteins you still use the OEM hardware and springs. So it's not really easier to order a Superlift kit at all. The lift components of either one are almost identical and the Bilsteins are an added option to either one. (Superlifts standard kits don't come with Bilsteins FYI)



As SilverSurfer said, a lift kit won't settle. A Zone lift uses your stock struts including the springs and just adds a preload spacer and strut spacer for the additional lift. If you added Bilsteins they use the stock springs as well.

I just saw RealTruck offers a kit with the Bils, they may not be the 5100's but they are adjustable. But, yes, usually they're an add on.

 

[MissBehavior]

Ah okay! See I was wondering why that sounded strange. I mean why would they settle. Thanks for clearing that up guys! I think the guys on facebook like to tell me alot of things and talk to me like I'm stupid because I'm a girl. But thanks for the help!

 

[MissBehavior]

Another question!! I was told I'd need to regear to run 37s after I lift it. I had never heard of regearing until recently and everyone has different answers. What should I get done?

 

[Hemipower392]

Sweet Truck hope you win man, saw your truck all over instagram

 

[MissBehavior]

Sweet Truck hope you win man, saw your truck all over instagram

Thank you! I hope I win too! Only have until tomorrow at 10 am to win

 

[RAMblin1217]

Another question!! I was told I'd need to regear to run 37s after I lift it. I had never heard of regearing until recently and everyone has different answers. What should I get done?

Regearing is wise when putting bigger tires on a truck that has been lifted, however it's not always necessary. One of the perks is better mpgs and the ability to move the heavier tires easier. If you have the 8 speed tranny more than likely it's fine, however getting better gearing will no doubt help. If you have a 6 speed tranny you'll definitely want to do it since there isn't enough torque/power to really get moving quickly. Even with the 8 speed and 3.21 gears you are pushing it since 8th gear becomes virtually non existent at higher speeds unless you're on perfectly level ground. I'm sure there are other members who can help you out more, I'd also use the search function and look up 37's and gearing or regearing on here. I'm not all that knowledgeable on the subject but I think I gave you a somewhat correct vague answer haha.

 

[SilverSurfer15]

the short answer to this question is yes, you need to regear. You don't have to, but its a good idea and will make the truck drive 1000000x better.

What is a must, is fixing your speedometer immediately. Once that is done, you can be the judge of how bad you hate the stock gearing.

 

[SilverSurfer15]

this is good information:

4Lo.com :: Gear Ratio & Tire Size Chart

*Note that its 1:1 gearing in this example, but the concept is still the same.

*****

Simplistic breakdown:

If you care, the 8th gear O/D gear is 0.67 (I think, or close enough), so to calculate your 8th gear RPM you can multiply the number in the chart times 0.67 to get an approx RPM value.

i.e. 3.55s and 33" = 2349, so 2349 x .67 = 1573 RPM cruising at 65 in your truck stock (assuming the values are right)

after the 37s.... 3.55s and 37s = 2095, 2095 x .67 = 1400 RPM at 65

Ideally you would want to be slightly higher, in this example say ~1700 RPM, to offset the extra rolling resistance of the 37s, meaning you would want to choose a new gear ratio that would put you back in the same (or slightly higher) operating RPM as stock.

Adding weight and rolling resistance AND lowering the RPM at which you operate obviously is not going to work well.

I also wrote this assuming you do a lot of highway driving, if you don't, the 8spd has such aggressive gearing you will prob be fine around town. The faster you go, the more noticeable the crappy gearing will become. If you never drive above 50, regearing would be a waste of time. The 8spd can get you there easy. If you drive 75 a lot, you will want 3.92/4.10s. It was more of an issue on the older 4 and 5 speed trans. even the 6spd is ok if you never get on the highway.

******

Also, as I said about the speedometer...

Speedometer Adjuster (with oversize tires)
(New Tire Diameter / Old Tire Diameter) * Speedometer MPH = Actual MPH

(37/33) * 35 = 39
(37/33) * 45 = 50.5
(37/33) * 55 = 61.5
(37/33) * 65 = 73

Those differences matter for drivability. As well as safety and speed limits.

 

[MissBehavior]

PS essentially what we are saying is those front shocks/struts with the kit become useless and have to be replaced with adjustable ones. That being said, if you're trying to have a 100% zone lift, you won't be able to do that and have it level. Not trying to change your mind, but it almost seems worth it to buy the Super Lift kit with the Bilsteins already included instead of having to buy 2 new front shocks/struts to replace the Zones. The Bilsteins will cost like $250 total so kinda crazy to use 1/8 of your winnings just to get the kit you like fixed to level like you want. But again, Zone is a good product and I'm not trying to change your mind, just saying it's easier to order the other kit...

Would it make a difference that I'm getting the nitro shocks? I was told they were better. I think I will do 6 in front and 3 in back.

 

[MissBehavior]

Also, I got under the truck because I was told the gearing was on a sticker down there and neither me or my friends could find it...I guess it fell off. But I don't even know what gearing I have right now, and honestly I don't really know where to get it regeared or the average price. I do alot of highway driving too, since it was asked