LEVELING 1500 RWD V6 - YET ONE MORE LEVELING POST

[HARV]

Sorry if this is a rethread but I've done a ton of research this week and still haven't found a good answer yet.

So I'm new to suspension mods but here's my goal: I want to level the front end of my truck. I have a 2017 1500 SLT RWD V6 3.6L QC (pleb...) with a 3.5" rake. I'd like to lift the front by 2-2.5". So here are my questions based on what I've seen mostly on RF threads and some others too.


-Spacers seem to be the most recommended by manufacturers and vendors: e.g. Maxtrac, CARID, etc but doesn't seem to be popular by users due to popping ball joints. Is there a way to make spacers work, like aftermarket UCAs or other components to fix the geometry?

-Spindle lifts seem like another option but seems like the CST 4" front spindle lift would squat my truck a bit, would rear spacers to even it out have the same issues as mentioned above? And would it need other components other than brake lines?

-Bilstein 1500s seem great but do they still only work with 4WDs?


BLUF: I know I don't have the most common or favored Ram to lift/level but I'd like to know if anyone has leveled this model or similar truck and what components they went with. Just want to stop plowing the road and ride like it's got some confidence in itself. Might get slightly bigger tires after leveling too, current ones are getting a bit bald anyways.

 

[kurek]

I think it's important for people on either side of this conversation to keep in mind the 2wd front suspension is not the same as the 4wd front suspension so when we talk about struts, spacers, bilsteins, all that stuff it's really NOT apples-apples.

On a 4wd you almost never want to put a spacer on top of the strut because that changes the total range of motion for the front suspension and can cause a variety of problems.

That does not apply to the 2wd because there is no strut and your ride height is not governed by the shock absorber.

On a 2wd, putting a spacer on the front spring is a completely valid way to raise your ride height. An aftermarket upper control arm (with lift geometry correction) still helps if you're going 2" or more for ensuring proper alignment. You can still run Bilstein 5100 shocks but they are not the same part number as the 4wd ones and don't change ride height just ride comfort and performance.

Otherwise if you go with a spindle lift that's fine too, then you would not need new control arms (because they work with the stock geometry) and you could certainly add a spacer in back to maintain a level or slightly raked ride height.

 

[the_goodguy07]

I don't know much about lifts myself , I have a 2017 ram 1500 5.7 slt , I went with the maxtrac 7 in lift , fox 2.0 shocks and 35 in tires , seems to be doing just fine , but then again I don't drive like a maniac lol

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk

 

[ram1500rsm]

I only use spacers when a proper coil spring is not available. Big top spacers on IFS are typically a bad idea. Trim top spacers (they are 1/8 or 1/4 top plates) are ok. They're designed to correct trim/lean issues. Use only if needed.

Lifting a 2wd front IFS with spacers won't be the same as lifting a 4x4.

2wd's don't have cv axels to deal with and the shock is not part of the strut assembly so it's simpler to lift a 2wd truck with spacers.
2wd with a 2" spacer, you'll lift your rear exactly the same way. You can put a spacer at the top or bottom.


4x4 asembly with a top spacer (strut extension in this pic) or preload spacer (preload kit in this pic), the one in the middle is an adjustable height 5100 lifting strut. preloading your strut works in the same fashion as changing the lower seat poistion in your 5100's. Just don't exceed 1" with this type of spacers and your factory strut.,do not add another on the top of the strut to achive more lift. etc. If you'll do such a thing the aftermarket have brackets and such that twill allow to you to lift your IFS more than 3" while keeping factory geometry.



in a 2wd application You still need to worry your uca BJs, tie rod length and shock length.
For the most part a 1" spacer can be used without any issues (it exist in other apps don't think RAM is one of them) 2" is prob the max you want to go but ideally you will want to extend the length of your shocks for proper operation if you were looking at a 2-3" lift, install UCA's etc etc.
Truck won't ride as good without this items in the front or at the very least shock extensions if available. This is similar to lifting your rear 2" with the factory rear shocks, the funny part is everybody changes rear shocks (add a slightly longer shock to acoomodate for the spacer) when they add a 2" spacer, or longer rear coil springs heck they do it even with 1" spacer, they also extended the rear sway bar links, relocate the trackbar, it seems some pay more attention to the rear that in reality are compliments to a small spacer or rear lift via coil springs... but when it comes to the front some people like to Macgyver stuff up in there because the looks is more important than the function of your front suspension

You can achieve 2-2.5 perhaps even 3" with coil springs in the front. in your 2wd application RC or Maxtrac or CST have coil spring options. Maxtrac have Fox 2.0 shocks that will accomodate their springs, CST have 2.0 performance race shocks available as well that will accomodate their springs, both will be your best choices in the 2-3" space.
If you want more than that don't stack spacers, both companies have spindle lifts to go higher and you should be able to use the same springs and shocks above

You also have a 4.5" lift race setup from Dirt King that is pure dope. so you have a lot of options to choose from


For the rear there is also a bunch of rear coil springs to lift from 1 to 5", you have diferent lenghts and spring rates so you can choose from a spring for work, offroading, overlanding, lift height etc etc.

 

[co-pilot]

If you only want 2" of lift then use a spring spacer ..... just be sure to use longer shocks......on 2wd this is fine

 

[kurek]

Why would he need to use longer shocks? He's just raising the ride height.. if he puts (meaningfully) longer shocks on it then it will run into the same UCA problem the 4wd's do when people use spacers...

 

[ram1500rsm]

Cause the shock shaft has to extend 2" past its intended operating range with the truck just sitting level. When the wheel hits a pothole the shock has to open even more, if there is no room for the shock to extend more or you're super close to max, the shock will top out and you'll feel that event as a harsh condition. When we change ride height, we should strive to maintain proper suspension cycling range, alignment, geometry etc etc. Changing ride height changes everything in the factory design.

From my commenst above, when we do a small 1-2" rear lift we do longer rear shocks, we change rear sway bar links, some do trackbar relo brackets etc. Front should see the same attention to details with aftermarket UCA's and longer shocks in the 2wd case. We don't have that luxury with a strut because we're limited to the triangle formed in the front suspension with UCA/LCA/CV axle/Tie rod etc, and how much up and down they can move, prob the CV axels are the most important items in regards of movement here. 2wd don't have them but yes ucas and tie-rods can be an issue (should be ok with 2", not optimal but ok). Case in point for the 4x4 is standard travel (Mopar, 5100, 6112 etc) vs extended travel (Falcon, King 2.5, Fox 2.5) the last is the most we can go without issues, but UCA's need to be addressed for sure. When people need more hight then they need the brackets from a lift kit with all the hardware, or longer UCA's/tie rods and their inherently longer CO's from a Long travel kit.

 

[Different Drummer]

Keep talking guys and gals. I have almost an identical truck to OP and am ALL EARS!

 

[kurek]

Cause the shock shaft has to extend 2" past its intended operating range with the truck just sitting level. When the wheel hits a pothole the shock has to open even more, if there is no room for the shock to extend more or you're super close to max, the shock will top out and you'll feel that event as a harsh condition. When we change ride height, we should strive to maintain proper suspension cycling range, alignment, geometry etc etc. Changing ride height changes everything in the factory design.

The control arm, ball joint & steering geometry is the same on 2wd and 4wd trucks. On a 4wd truck the coil is concentric to the shock so you change the ride height by moving one of the spring's mounting surfaces (the lower spring seat) without changing the total length or stroke of the shock.

Topologically this is identical to using a spacer on a 2wd with a stock shock absorber. You gain ride height at the expense of extension travel.

Since the shock absorber is what limits suspension travel adding a longer shock to a 2wd produces the same outcome as adding a spacer to the top of a 4wd strut - something not typically advised.

 

[ram1500rsm]

We have to deal with the CV axels, that's the main reason you don't want to over extend your suspension with a top spacer, asides of course from your UCA bj angles and tie-rod lenght being enough to allow for the extra droop, UCA's not contacting the springs in your struts or colilover. Kore used to advertise a longer CV axel that was using our factory lowers to further extend the axels while drooping, so you could run a little longer than normal CO's without having to extend your lower control arms. You also needed capable UCA's to further utilize the longer axels.

Change your factory UCA's with a JBA uca or Icon DJ or any uniball UCA and you can droop your 2wd front the extra 2" you're adding with 2" longer shocks because of new coils or spacers. Maxtrac and CST wouldn't offer longer shocks for their 2.5" coils if that wasn't the case. King or Fox wouldn't offer 1" extra longer CO assemblies for the 4x4 trucks if those would ruin your front end. Crap on the DT trucks their extended travel options are now 2" longer than stock, 1" longer for standard travel. the ORP packages run 1" taller springs and their factory struts are 1" longer as a result.
The limit of your 2wd trucks is mostly in shocks then UCA BJ, tie-rod, and all the other links and crap we have in between sway bar, swar bar links etc. Just make sure your uca don't hit the spring while drooping and that your BJ's and tie rods are ok. 2" longer shocks won't max the tie-rods, could put the UCA's at max, etc. There is no CV axel to spin and ruin, zero issues extending your shocks 2" further down as long as you pay attention to your UCA's. If you would have lifted 2wd applications for performance you'll know better... more than 2-2.5 and you want lifting spindles. you can only so much add lenght but you're still limited by your LCA's. run them wide with a long travel and now you can run 14-16" Coilovers. they come with race spindles so you also gain some height, longer tierods, UCA's are litterally the same or a little longer and they have heims for max performance/abuse. You DONT want your front shocks being limiters for your droop. That's why race trucks have straps. We have a front sway bar they don't.

 

[co-pilot]

all I know ( from experience) is that if you don't run longer shocks ...it will ride harsh!!!

If you look on ebay some of the cheap spacer kit come with shock extensions ...for this very reason!....

 

[Quick_Shifter]

The Gen 5 made it easy for the 2wd guys now well only have to tell the HD guys that Bilstein 5100’s won’t level their solid axles. For every one else wondering send @Nick@GotExhaust a pm with what you’re looking to do and he will price you a kit the fits your truck for a price that you’re most likely not going to be able to beat. I get wanting to learn and understand but there are plenty of threads to get lost in. You can read for days to get it

 

[Nick@GotExhaust]

The Gen 5 made it easy for the 2wd guys now well only have to tell the HD guys that Bilstein 5100’s won’t level their solid axles. For every one else wondering send @Nick@GotExhaust a pm with what you’re looking to do and he will price you a kit the fits your truck for a price that you’re most likely not going to be able to beat. I get wanting to learn and understand but there are plenty of threads to get lost in. You can read for days to get it

HAHA, had a 3500 owner ask me last week for 5100's to level it.

@HARV Let us know if we can help. we have some options for you. Message me for a quote.

 

[HARV]

HAHA, had a 3500 owner ask me last week for 5100's to level it.

@HARV Let us know if we can help. we have some options for you. Message me for a quote.

Just did sir, thanks!

Gents, you guys gave me some good pointers and a lively debate to boot. Thanks and keep posting if there's anything else to be added on leveling my humble vehicle.

 

[Quick_Shifter]

HAHA, had a 3500 owner ask me last week for 5100's to level it.

@HARV Let us know if we can help. we have some options for you. Message me for a quote.

I feel like a lot of threads are similar but for the guys that just want a quality kit that fits their wants, needs and trucks it’s a no brainer to reach out to you. For any new guys reading click on Nicks name and select start a conversation and describe what you would like to accomplish. Not just lifts and levels he gets every from headlights to exhaust tips

 

[Nick@GotExhaust]

I feel like a lot of threads are similar but for the guys that just want a quality kit that fits their wants, needs and trucks it’s a no brainer to reach out to you. For any new guys reading click on Nicks name and select start a conversation and describe what you would like to accomplish. Not just lifts and levels he gets every from headlights to exhaust tips

Thank you sir. We have been lucky enough to work with a lot of customers so we have a good knowledge of what works, what lasts, and what performs. We use that to determine what will work on a customer's vehicle and then give them the best bang for their buck to fit their budget. Also having a relationship with many manufacturers and distributors we have a ton of options for just about any part on a vehicle.

For anyone in/near PA or willing to travel to PA and need an installation contact @Quick_Shifter , he does installs and has worked with some of our customers. The end product has been outstanding!

 

[Adamcr68]

Thank you sir. We have been lucky enough to work with a lot of customers so we have a good knowledge of what works, what lasts, and what performs. We use that to determine what will work on a customer's vehicle and then give them the best bang for their buck to fit their budget. Also having a relationship with many manufacturers and distributors we have a ton of options for just about any part on a vehicle.

For anyone in/near PA or willing to travel to PA and need an installation contact @Quick_Shifter , he does installs and has worked with some of our customers. The end product has been outstanding!

I’m in northern VA & recently went to Quick-Shifter’s shop for fuel pump & sensor, rear control arms, sway & panhard bar, brakes- rotors, pads & calipers, & fluid flush. Great guy with a awesome shop! I would happily drive twice as far, & plan on going to his shop for any future upgrades

 

[Nick@GotExhaust]

I’m in northern VA & recently went to Quick-Shifter’s shop for fuel pump & sensor, rear control arms, sway & panhard bar, brakes- rotors, pads & calipers, & fluid flush. Great guy with a awesome shop! I would happily drive twice as far, & plan on going to his shop for any future upgradesView attachment 236491View attachment 236493

BEAUTIFUL!

Great parts and Great installation!!!

 

[Quick_Shifter]

We only do Fuel pumps for our good customers

 

[Keifus]

I did a 3” front and 2” rear spacers on my V6 2WD and I’m pretty happy with it. I’m just waiting on my 20” fuels to get here