Lift Guidance Needed

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JD522

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I think I am finally ready to order stuff to lift my 2015 Ram 1500 Bighorn crew cab, 6'4" bed. Its about 2 3/4" high in the rear. I've seen a truck posted by BowersFJ that is the setup I had in mind. I plan to get the following:

Zone 4/3" lift with Fox rear shocks
Bilstein B8 5100 front shocks, likely set to further level the front
Drop down from 20" rims to 17x9" rims, probably Fuel Battle Axe or Fuel Vapor. I think I need -12mm offset.
New TPMS sensors.
35x12.50 Goodyear Duratrac

What am I missing that I will need?

Will there be any problems dropping down in rim size?

Should what I listed work without any trimming? The Zone lift says to use 17x9 at 4.5" backspacing. If I read the sticky thread correctly, that would be -12mm offset. Those rims also come in +1mm offset. Would those rub?

What should I expect for labor? $1,000? $1,500? Will that price front-end alignment? Odometer calibration? Shift point adjustments?

Is this something the average mechanic can tackle? Or do I really need to find a shop that does lifts often? I don't know of any around Charlottesville, VA.

Sorry for all the questions. But, I don't want to drop $4k or more on parts and have an oops moment.
 

Adamcr68

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I think I am finally ready to order stuff to lift my 2015 Ram 1500 Bighorn crew cab, 6'4" bed. Its about 2 3/4" high in the rear. I've seen a truck posted by BowersFJ that is the setup I had in mind. I plan to get the following:

Zone 4/3" lift with Fox rear shocks
Bilstein B8 5100 front shocks, likely set to further level the front
Drop down from 20" rims to 17x9" rims, probably Fuel Battle Axe or Fuel Vapor. I think I need -12mm offset.
New TPMS sensors.
35x12.50 Goodyear Duratrac

What am I missing that I will need?

Will there be any problems dropping down in rim size?

Should what I listed work without any trimming? The Zone lift says to use 17x9 at 4.5" backspacing. If I read the sticky thread correctly, that would be -12mm offset. Those rims also come in +1mm offset. Would those rub?

What should I expect for labor? $1,000? $1,500? Will that price front-end alignment? Odometer calibration? Shift point adjustments?

Is this something the average mechanic can tackle? Or do I really need to find a shop that does lifts often? I don't know of any around Charlottesville, VA.

Sorry for all the questions. But, I don't want to drop $4k or more on parts and have an oops moment.
I leveled mine & have 35’s on 18x9 fuels +1, had to add 1” spacers to fix rub on the uca’s. Their is a good shop in Newington VA that did my level , uca’s , cat-back, 1.5” bl & installed my pulsar. Exline off-road, the owner drives a ram3500 & they do good work, but I would reach out to Quick-Shifter on this forum he has a suspension shop in southern PA, he recently installed my rear springs, control arms, brakes- with a fluid change & fuel pump/sensor. He is very knowledgeable & has a awesome shop! Your about 1.25 hours south of me & took me about 2 hours to get to his shop, but if is something I can’t do/fix his is the only shop I’ll take my truck to. He is a true professional & a great guy not satisfied with “close enough or it should be okay”B25D8EC9-7B62-4FBC-87ED-DC80BA3D9613.jpegCD93CB98-5E33-49D3-B301-6CF1EE558833.jpeg15F4D3FD-9C6A-45B1-8DFF-69B73C2693EB.jpeg
 

Quick_Shifter

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I think I am finally ready to order stuff to lift my 2015 Ram 1500 Bighorn crew cab, 6'4" bed. Its about 2 3/4" high in the rear. I've seen a truck posted by BowersFJ that is the setup I had in mind. I plan to get the following:

Zone 4/3" lift with Fox rear shocks
Bilstein B8 5100 front shocks, likely set to further level the front
Drop down from 20" rims to 17x9" rims, probably Fuel Battle Axe or Fuel Vapor. I think I need -12mm offset.
New TPMS sensors.
35x12.50 Goodyear Duratrac

What am I missing that I will need?

Will there be any problems dropping down in rim size?

Should what I listed work without any trimming? The Zone lift says to use 17x9 at 4.5" backspacing. If I read the sticky thread correctly, that would be -12mm offset. Those rims also come in +1mm offset. Would those rub?

What should I expect for labor? $1,000? $1,500? Will that price front-end alignment? Odometer calibration? Shift point adjustments?

Is this something the average mechanic can tackle? Or do I really need to find a shop that does lifts often? I don't know of any around Charlottesville, VA.

Sorry for all the questions. But, I don't want to drop $4k or more on parts and have an oops moment.

the short answer is no most mechanic shops are not able to install a lift kit. One of the main reasons I opened a suspension wheel and tire shop. Too many buddies getting work done and having problems. The Zone 6” lift is the best bang for the buck lift available for your truck. The 4” looks tempting but trust me you want the 6”. It leaves the options open and a 5” front 3” rear lift is a perfect size which is not achievable with the 4/2 lift.
 
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JD522

JD522

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the short answer is no most mechanic shops are not able to install a lift kit. One of the main reasons I opened a suspension wheel and tire shop. Too many buddies getting work done and having problems. The Zone 6” lift is the best bang for the buck lift available for your truck. The 4” looks tempting but trust me you want the 6”. It leaves the options open and a 5” front 3” rear lift is a perfect size which is not achievable with the 4/2 lift.
Can you explain why the Zone 4/3 lift is really a 4/2 lift? Is it the 4/2 lift with something extra that then means you can't add 5100s? In the other recent thread, you mentioned leaving out a spacer that comes with the kit to achieve 5/3. Is that when starting from a 6/3 lift and the piece that is left out is 1" of height? Sorry for the dumb questions. I don't know much about lifts. The 5/3, is what I want in the end. So, whatever the best way to achieve that is what I want (probably aside from coil overs due to $$$). I don't mind adding the extra to get the 6/3 as a starting point. I just don't want to go so high that 35's look small and show a ton of wheel well.
 

thkbaron

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if you are running a 12 inch wide tire with a +1 offset your tire will be flush if you are running oem flares. I never had any rubbing issues when I ran a bilstein set at 2.1 I was running a 34 inch tire. If you are going from a 20 to a 17 rim try and find pictures of that rim in a 17. it will look drastically different between the sizes, not to mention the offset. a more negative offset rim typically is more visually appealing than a positive offset one. Depending on the design of course. I loved FUEL pump wheels in a 20 but when I saw them in an 18 I hated them.
 
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JD522

JD522

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if you are running a 12 inch wide tire with a +1 offset your tire will be flush if you are running oem flares. I never had any rubbing issues when I ran a bilstein set at 2.1 I was running a 34 inch tire. If you are going from a 20 to a 17 rim try and find pictures of that rim in a 17. it will look drastically different between the sizes, not to mention the offset. a more negative offset rim typically is more visually appealing than a positive offset one. Depending on the design of course. I loved FUEL pump wheels in a 20 but when I saw them in an 18 I hated them.
Thanks for the tip. I have only seen rims online. It is tough trying to decide on something so important with nothing but a tiny 2D picture. And, as you pointed out, I don't even know the rim size or offset in the picture, since the picture doesn't seem to change when I change those values. I don't know of any place to look at rims in person. Is there a business that tends to have a large show room of rims? I'm fine with having to drive to a different, bigger city. For me (in VA) that would be Richmond, Harrisonburg, Fredericksburg, or Lynchburg.
 

thkbaron

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yeah I couldn't tell you there, but customwheeloffsets.com is your best bet for finding pictures usually.
 
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JD522

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yeah I couldn't tell you there, but customwheeloffsets.com is your best bet for finding pictures usually.
I have been using that site to look at them. That site seems to have average wheel prices. But, it has crazy high tire prices.
 

thkbaron

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yeah I don't look at the sight for buying them just check the gallery for peoples rides.
 

Quick_Shifter

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Can you explain why the Zone 4/3 lift is really a 4/2 lift? Is it the 4/2 lift with something extra that then means you can't add 5100s? In the other recent thread, you mentioned leaving out a spacer that comes with the kit to achieve 5/3. Is that when starting from a 6/3 lift and the piece that is left out is 1" of height? Sorry for the dumb questions. I don't know much about lifts. The 5/3, is what I want in the end. So, whatever the best way to achieve that is what I want (probably aside from coil overs due to $$$). I don't mind adding the extra to get the 6/3 as a starting point. I just don't want to go so high that 35's look small and show a ton of wheel well.
Zone used to sell the kit as a 4/2 until last year ish now they offer a 3” coil option which puts you at the same price as the 6” kit. Which is the best bang for the buck lift as I stated before. The only difference at that point would be the strut top spacer. The strut top spacer uses a preload spacer which can be left out to achieve a 5” front lift.
 
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JD522

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Zone used to sell the kit as a 4/2 until last year ish now they offer a 3” coil option which puts you at the same price as the 6” kit. Which is the best bang for the buck lift as I stated before. The only difference at that point would be the strut top spacer. The strut top spacer uses a preload spacer which can be left out to achieve a 5” front lift.
Thanks for explaining. I see what you mean now about the price being pretty much the same. I didn't realize the 4/3 was more than the starting (4/2) price. Do you advise also getting the beefier UCA kit Zone offers?

Since you have so much knowledge and experience, I would appreciate your feedback on the other questions in my original post.
 

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Thanks for explaining. I see what you mean now about the price being pretty much the same. I didn't realize the 4/3 was more than the starting (4/2) price. Do you advise also getting the beefier UCA kit Zone offers?

Since you have so much knowledge and experience, I would appreciate your feedback on the other questions in my original post.
Yes the beefier UCA’s are always recommended, it’s added insurance but not a necessity you can get by without them. In reference to your original post I wouldn’t go below an 18” wheel with lifted spindles. There are a lot of better tires than the duratac tires too. They are OK but you could get a better tire for the same money or even less. What will you be using your truck for? Off roading, towing, etc
 
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JD522

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What is the downside to 17" rims? It took me forever to find rims I "think" I would like in 17x9. I'll have to take a look at 18x9 now.

I originally thought I wanted Cooper Discoverer STT Pro. But, then I found they are only offered in white letters. Even turned in they would show at the bottoms. So, I thought Nitto Ridge Grapper would be good. But, there is some kind of shortage on those and the price has gone up. I looked at BFG KM3, General Grabber, and Toyo OC R/T. But, all the user reviews I read indicate that those mud tires are not good on slick surfaces due to having few, large, flat blocks of tread. So, I backed up to the A/T category. My friend has Duratracs on his Jeep and loves them. They get good reviews on various sites, particularly on snow and ice. I work from home now and probably will for the foreseeable future. So, my truck is really a weekend vehicle. I don't tow other than a utility trailor every once in a blue moon. I go offroad infrequently when at friends property. But, with the ****** street tires that came on my truck, I've already gotten stuck near every time I try. The first time I was stuck in slick shallow mud on low-land near the James river. I mid-size four wheeler pulled me out! The most recent time was going up a grass/mud road with snow into mountain property my friend bought. What tires do you like?
 

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What is the downside to 17" rims? It took me forever to find rims I "think" I would like in 17x9. I'll have to take a look at 18x9 now.

I originally thought I wanted Cooper Discoverer STT Pro. But, then I found they are only offered in white letters. Even turned in they would show at the bottoms. So, I thought Nitto Ridge Grapper would be good. But, there is some kind of shortage on those and the price has gone up. I looked at BFG KM3, General Grabber, and Toyo OC R/T. But, all the user reviews I read indicate that those mud tires are not good on slick surfaces due to having few, large, flat blocks of tread. So, I backed up to the A/T category. My friend has Duratracs on his Jeep and loves them. They get good reviews on various sites, particularly on snow and ice. I work from home now and probably will for the foreseeable future. So, my truck is really a weekend vehicle. I don't tow other than a utility trailor every once in a blue moon. I go offroad infrequently when at friends property. But, with the ****** street tires that came on my truck, I've already gotten stuck near every time I try. The first time I was stuck in slick shallow mud on low-land near the James river. I mid-size four wheeler pulled me out! The most recent time was going up a grass/mud road with snow into mountain property my friend bought. What tires do you like?
At my shop we test fit 17’s because they can be finicky as they are the smallest wheel you can run with a lift. The math calculations can get extremely close (not fun when your stuff you just spent good money on doesn’t fit right)
Toyo AT3’s is my favorite tire (I own a suspension wheel and tire shop so you can imagine I can get any tire I want)
Cooper SST pro are available in black wall or raised white letter not white letter only
 
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JD522

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What do you think of the Nitto Ridge Grapplers? I like their more aggressive side wall.

The Zone lift page says 18x9 needs a 5" backspacing. So, that is 0mm offset, right?

For 18" rims, is 18x10 better? It looks like the min and max rim size go up a half inch going from 17" to 18" rims. For 18s, the range is 8.5 to 12. So, 9 is near the minimum. I don't particularly want the wheels/tires to sitck out any further than necessary. At a quick glance, it doesn't look like there are many wheels in 18x10 though.
 
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Quick_Shifter

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That’s a rabbit hole you’re going down. It would be more beneficial to tell me the wheel you like and go from there
 
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JD522

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So far, I think I like the look of Fuel Vapor and Fuel Battle Axe. But, it is difficult to tell since I have only seen tiny pictures of them online. I don't know anywhere I could see them in person. I don't like "deep lip" wheels or ones that are super concave or convex. I like wheels that look beefier rather than a few skinny spokes. My truck is Granite Crystal with chrome bumpers. I like wheels that are all black or nearly all black with some machined edges or such. I'm not a fan of the fake chrome bolts or dots around the perimeter of most black rims. But, It probably wouldn't be a deal breaker, all else considered. I have considered the Black Rhino Warlord rims. I'm just not sure of the "gunmetal" color compared to my truck. If they were a very close match, it might look good. Otherwise, it probably would not. Some rims look good from an angle but don't look good straight on. Fuel Assault is one of those for me. Straight on all I see is a flower pattern.

It seems there are many fewer 18" rims for my bolt pattern. I guess it is because 18" rims are not a typical size for Ram trucks. There are lots of 17s and 20s. I really wish 17s would fit. The rims and tires combined are like $400 cheaper.
 

Adamcr68

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So far, I think I like the look of Fuel Vapor and Fuel Battle Axe. But, it is difficult to tell since I have only seen tiny pictures of them online. I don't know anywhere I could see them in person. I don't like "deep lip" wheels or ones that are super concave or convex. I like wheels that look beefier rather than a few skinny spokes. My truck is Granite Crystal with chrome bumpers. I like wheels that are all black or nearly all black with some machined edges or such. I'm not a fan of the fake chrome bolts or dots around the perimeter of most black rims. But, It probably wouldn't be a deal breaker, all else considered. I have considered the Black Rhino Warlord rims. I'm just not sure of the "gunmetal" color compared to my truck. If they were a very close match, it might look good. Otherwise, it probably would not. Some rims look good from an angle but don't look good straight on. Fuel Assault is one of those for me. Straight on all I see is a flower pattern.

It seems there are many fewer 18" rims for my bolt pattern. I guess it is because 18" rims are not a typical size for Ram trucks. There are lots of 17s and 20s. I really wish 17s would fit. The rims and tires combined are like $400 cheaper.
I have the vapors, not sure but I think there is a couple different onesED11898A-2142-4344-8A3B-B47311A0580E.jpeg
 
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JD522

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Thanks! Those look great! Your angle makes it easy to see how concave they are. Would that change with offset differences? What offset are yours? Also, how do you like the Ridge Grapplers? Those are one of the tires I am considering.
 
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