Lifted 1500 5.7l vs 2500/3500 Cummins offroad

[Carsten]

Does anyone here have any experience with a lifted 1500 5.7l with 35-37in tires and a 2500/3500 Cummins with also 35-37in tires?

I've been searching/youtubing/foruming anything I can get my hands on to try to compare these two beasts performance offroad to try to figure out with of the two would be the best overland vehicle. I can try to reason my way through it as can most of all you, but does anyone have first or second hand experience with both?

My hypothesis between the two is the 1500 may be a little better at rock climbing due to the engine/suspension weight being significantly lighter, however due to it having IFS it is more susceptible to having it's rubber CV housings punctured from debris which would make it become completely useless out in boondocks. On the other hand the Cummins has endless reserves of torque and may be able to just brute its way through most obstacles, and it's axles are more rugged and less susceptible to damage.

I currently have a 1500 5.7l 3.93 limited slip truck, but before I go investing money into a 4K BDS lift with Fox coil overs and the wheels and tires to go with... I may want to trade for the Cummins instead.

Let me know what you guys have experienced when testing out the two, and the pros and cons to both.

 

[Carsten]

Forgot to mention the difference in wheel travel; I would think the Cummins would have greater wheel travel due to it having a Solid State Axle(SSA) which would lead to better traction when going over obstacles.

 

[hodge-xj]

So the list of arguments is literally endless, having both it's almost a 50/50 split. I'll start by saying they're 2 totally different animals so ask yourself which for a your needs better. Long open rough roads, navigating tighter forest trails, long distances, shorter trips etc.

First off the 1500. You already own and know this vehicle which is a plus. It's a bit smaller, and lighter which is a little easier on parts. Fuel mileage won't be the best with 35s or 37s on 3.92 s but you won't go broke running it either. A member here cloudlight fit 37s on a level with minor trimming so you may be able to save a few bucks over a full 4" kit. Upgrades like shocks, control arms, skids etc would take preference over actual lift height since you can fit some big meats in there. Tires net you the ground clearance, so there's a lot of ways to go about your desired result. I'm a lower lift bigger tire guy. There's a guy local to me with a 6" on 37s and it's freakin massive. I wouldn't wanna get into anything off camber in it. As for wheel travel, our IFS yields decent travel for what it is. Carli touts rumors of something like 10" with their kit so it's nothing to scoff at. It won't flex like a live axle rig up front but I can't imagine you'll find it really much of a disadvantage. The aftermarket for 1500s is a little thin, so that's a pretty big kick in the pants. I'm in the process of building my ecodiesel similar to your intentions and it's a pain. But it's also a cool factor making it something special compared to the norm.

NOW THE 2500. I had a 2006 2500 so my experience with the 3rd gen, tho not apples to apples per se, should similarly apply. It was a tank. In all aspects. It was BIG on the trails here on the east coast. If you're planning on wheeling regularly 37s are a must with that boat anchor of an AAM 11.5 out back. I ran a thuren 3" hybrid setup and only had about 10" of wheel travel give or take on it as well. Minor trimming, 37s fit perfect. It's heavy, and stable and idk about the new 4th gen but my power steering HATED turning 37s on slow speed anything. Parking lots or trails was a bear. The fuel mileage was about 18ish maybe 20 on a perfect day, but over the life of my truck, which was 200k of my ownership I averaged 17.6 from the records I kept. The 2500 feels more robust if you will. It just feels built sturdier. Plus the aftermarket blew up for these trucks, you can find anything, but it also carries a premium. Quality fuel is a must, maintenance is paramount, and parts aren't cheap. The diesel wreaks havoc on the front end in the rough, plan on a few big $ just to get that to handle hard use. Especially with the torque available, it's a wonderful attribute, but 1000 lb ft finds weak spots in a build in short order. Also I'm not sure, but these new dpf,scr,egr systems don't like low speed idle use a lot, which offroad is unless your bombing the desert.

Sorry for being so long winded, I'm sure I missed a lot of info but that will get you kinda started. I beat the hell out of my 2500, and it took it all day but I also got to a point where maintenance caught up to me and it was down a lot and hard to keep up on, just from a cost point. My 1500 is more a "soft" truck IMO if you will. I'm sure the ifs will puke it's brains out after some abuse, but it's easy to work on and carry spares. In a nut shell, I miss my 2500, but there's always a compromise. I didn't need that much truck anymore and the 1500 fits better, literally everywhere. There's a lot to it but be brutally honest with yourself. Needs, wants, intended use. If you can afford it, a new 2500 would do you no wrong at all. But don't think the 1500 will let you down either, just 2 different tools. Kinda like a tacoma vs a tundra, my buddies banter back and forth all day, but the end of the day they both go down the same trails, and have the same fun. 2500s are bad ass, 1500s are bad ass.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[mtnrider]

You need a power wagon. 2500 chassis with lockers, winch, sway bar disconnect, etc. You won't like the mpg or range but it will do some serious offroading.

While I love my cummins, due to the weight I don't think they are the best offroading vehicle out there but it really depends on the terrain also. My power wagon would run circles around my cummins in most offroad situations, but the cummins is a tow vehicle, the power wagon is a offroad vehicle


.

 

[Ratket]

2500 power wagon or a 2500 ******’s with a thruren/carli long travel.
The advantage to the diesel is no matter what tire size you go to, it has the torque and Hp stock to pull the tires all day. But as stated previously it is all going to come down to personal preference.

 

[RedSRT4Me]

First things first. Decide whether the 1500 is getting das boot

 

[6.7CumminsDrvr]

Just my $0.02, if your current 1500 has the BW 44-44 (if you have the auto 4wd button you do) than I would not recommend it if you’re truly looking to go overlanding. It was not intended for rugged or prolonged off-road use, there is a reason the off-road oriented Rebel has the 44–45 part time case.

 

[Carsten]

Thanks guys for all the advice. There's a lot in here that I had no clue about.
I do love my 1500, and do believe that it has a lot of potential if built correctly, however after watching a few video's of the BW 44-44 in 4wd low not locking the front two wheels; this could be a problem... I'm now wondering if there's a programmer that can correct the clutch engagement at low rpm, or if the BW 44-44 can be swapped out for the BW 44-45

 

[6.7CumminsDrvr]

Thanks guys for all the advice. There's a lot in here that I had no clue about.
I do love my 1500, and do believe that it has a lot of potential if built correctly, however after watching a few video's of the BW 44-44 in 4wd low not locking the front two wheels; this could be a problem... I'm now wondering if there's a programmer that can correct the clutch engagement at low rpm, or if the BW 44-44 can be swapped out for the BW 44-45

Short answer is no.........bunch of folks have tried but there is a shifting issue, you can read about it in the other threads.

The BW 44-44 works great for what it was intended for but not somerthing i’d trust for overlanding. I’ve gotten the “tcase overheating, reduced operation” message twice in conditions that in no way shape or form should have.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.