Listen to this

[Daniel12]

Hello,

So yesterday my truck overheated, got up to 125 celcius and then the dash warning came on. Immediately pulled over and let it cool down while running the Fan2 through alfaOBD. Today, i took it apart and figured out that it was the thermostat. While having the engine run with no fan shroud on, it sounded a bit different than I’m used to. Its got 245000km on it. How does this sound to you guys? Injector noise? Lifters?

https://youtube.com/shorts/wOOd0f-g1rM?feature=shared

 

[Ken226]

Hello,

So yesterday my truck overheated, got up to 125 celcius and then the dash warning came on. Immediately pulled over and let it cool down while running the Fan2 through alfaOBD. Today, i took it apart and figured out that it was the thermostat. While having the engine run with no fan shroud on, it sounded a bit different than I’m used to. Its got 245000km on it. How does this sound to you guys? Injector noise? Lifters?

https://youtube.com/shorts/wOOd0f-g1rM?feature=shared

The frequency is way too slow for injector noise. There are 8 injectors firing at a rate of 4 per revolution, so at 550rpm idle you would have 2200 firings per minute.


The ticking I hear in the video is slow enough you could count the ticks, so about half the engine RPM, which is exactly the speed at which the valve train rotates. Or, a broken exhaust manifold stud, which if only leaking at 1 port would be 1 tick every other revolution, so also about 250 ticks per minute, or about 4ish per second.

So, the frequency sounds like either lifter or exhaust manifold.



That said, 125C converts to 257 Fahrenheit, which is getting close to engine damage territory. Check your oil for the ole chocolate milshake and do a exhaust gas test on your cooling system. Keep an eye on your oil, in case you end up with a head gasket issue. Aluminum heads don't tolerate overheating like the old cast iron heads could.

 

[Daniel12]

I may end up pulling my cam out to have a look at it in that case. If I pull just the cam, leaving the lifters in place, would it be safe to say the lifters are still good if there is no visible damage on the cam?

I just drained all the coolant to replace my t-stat. Didn’t see anything out of the ordinary. Oil looks clean by the looks of the dip stick.

I did shut the truck off within 10 seconds of getting the high engine temp warning on the dash. I’m not sure why it comes on so close to the real damage territory.

 

[jws123]

How often are your oil changes? it does not sound like a lifter noise its faint sounds a little lower end/piston ish. You got it WAY to hot like mentioned above you may have slightly damaged something. I would change the oil now even if your not due and run it drive it for a few days see what happens use 5w30.

 

[jws123]

I may end up pulling my cam out to have a look at it in that case. If I pull just the cam, leaving the lifters in place, would it be safe to say the lifters are still good if there is no visible damage on the cam?

I just drained all the coolant to replace my t-stat. Didn’t see anything out of the ordinary. Oil looks clean by the looks of the dip stick.

I did shut the truck off within 10 seconds of getting the high engine temp warning on the dash. I’m not sure why it comes on so close to the real damage territory.

The warning is more of a last ditch effort truck is screaming at you to stop ahaha your suppose to keep a eye on your gauges every now and then also it should never go past the half mark.

 

[Ken226]

I may end up pulling my cam out to have a look at it in that case. If I pull just the cam, leaving the lifters in place, would it be safe to say the lifters are still good if there is no visible damage on the cam?

It would probably be easier to drain the oil, pull the oil pan and use a bore scope to inspect the cam from below.

Credit to @sport2013 for this method

47000 miles what's your thoughts 5.7 mds

www.ramforum.com

 

[Daniel12]

How often are your oil changes? it does not sound like a lifter noise its faint sounds a little lower end/piston ish. You got it WAY to hot like mentioned above you may have slightly damaged something. I would change the oil now even if your not due and run it drive it for a few days see what happens use 5w30.

Oil changes with PUP 5W-30 every 7000km max.

The warning is more of a last ditch effort truck is screaming at you to stop ahaha your suppose to keep a eye on your gauges every now and then also it should never go past the half mark.

Didn’t even think to look, went into Home Depot for 20 mins, hoped back in the truck and by the time I turned onto the street from the parking lot, the warning came up lol. It does go from 85-125 very quickly when theres no flow through the thermostat, this I found out. Its possible when I parked, it was already well above 100 already and I just didn’t notice.

It would probably be easier to drain the oil, pull the oil pan and use a bore scope to inspect the cam from below.

Credit to @sport2013 for this method

47000 miles what's your thoughts 5.7 mds

www.ramforum.com

Will read more into this method. Thanks!

 

[Burla]

I dont hear anything not normal, need to take recording from under engine and like 3 minutes at warm idle.

 

[Daniel12]

If it makes any difference, the oil only got to about 108C before I noticed. It was just the coolant itself that got extremely hot.

 

[CamperMike]

It sounds pretty normal to me. I really don't hear excessive ticking.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

You could also remove the intake and check the screen for the VVT.
If there is any debris in there it could be too late?
(Also a good thing to check these bolts on a semi-annual basis at the very least as they are known to back out and cause drivability issues).

Perhaps also remove the serp belt and check the water pump, tensioner, and idler pulleys for any play of any kind.

Recommend to use just the OEM MOPAR coolant for your HEMI, too.

EDIT - be it the OEM 50/50 premixed or their concentrated.
If using their concentrated; mix 50/50 with distilled water only!

 

[Daniel12]

You could also remove the intake and check the screen for the VVT.
If there is any debris in there it could be too late?
(Also a good thing to check these bolts on a semi-annual basis at the very least as they are known to back out and cause drivability issues).

Perhaps also remove the serp belt and check the water pump, tensioner, and idler pulleys for any play of any kind.

Recommend to use just the OEM MOPAR coolant for your HEMI, too.

EDIT - be it the OEM 50/50 premixed or their concentrated.
If using their concentrated; mix 50/50 with distilled water only!

Been 8 years and I’ve never checked the intake bolts. What kind of drivability issues would I notice?

EDIT: I read that someone in another thread tightened theirs after noticing what looked like a slow valve cover oil leak. Both of my valve covers look like they have oil residue around them. Would it make sense for the intake manifold looseness to cause this? You can actually see the stains I’m talking about in my original video for a second or 2.

 

[Wild one]

Been 8 years and I’ve never checked the intake bolts. What kind of drivability issues would I notice?

EDIT: I read that someone in another thread tightened theirs after noticing what looked like a slow valve cover oil leak. Both of my valve covers look like they have oil residue around them. Would it make sense for the intake manifold looseness to cause this? You can actually see the stains I’m talking about in my original video for a second or 2.

Odds are you might need valve cover gaskets ,if you run it through a carwash and wash the engine,you can keep an eye on them better. You don't park it in a heavy rainstorm,carwash isn't a hell'va lot differant,so open the hood and hose the engine off every once in awhile,makes it easier to see what and where it's leaking from.

Check your intake manifold bolts

This hasn't been talked about for awhile,but check your intake manifold bolts.They call for 108 in-lbs or roughly 9 ft-lbs of torque,and they should be checked at least yearly,as they do loosen up. I've been doing mine at least twice a year on all 3 of of my hemi equipped vehicles.They should be...

www.ramforum.com

 

[CanuckRam1313]

Odds are you might need valve cover gaskets ,if you run it through a carwash and wash the engine,you can keep an eye on them better. You don't park it in a heavy rainstorm,carwash isn't a hell'va lot differant,so open the hood and hose the engine off every once in awhile,makes it easier to see what and where it's leaking from.

Check your intake manifold bolts

This hasn't been talked about for awhile,but check your intake manifold bolts.They call for 108 in-lbs or roughly 9 ft-lbs of torque,and they should be checked at least yearly,as they do loosen up. I've been doing mine at least twice a year on all 3 of of my hemi equipped vehicles.They should be...

www.ramforum.com

Agreed!

I clean up my engine bay at least once, if not twice a year.

On a cold to lukewarm engine I spray Simple Green all over and let it sit for 5 minutes.
Enough time to let it work but not dry out on my engine.
Then I power wash it afterward and it shines.

Take her for a good drive to dry her up and then once back and the engine is cooled down I spray all over with Krown spray.

A clean engine is a happy engine and one that can easily be looked over to see anything out of place.

 

[Wild one]

Agreed!

I clean up my engine bay at least once, if not twice a year.

On a cold to lukewarm engine I spray Simple Green all over and let it sit for 5 minutes.
Enough time to let it work but not dry out on my engine.
Then I power wash it afterward and it shines.

Take her for a good drive to dry her up and then once back and the engine is cooled down I spray all over with Krown spray.

A clean engine is a happy engine and one that can easily be looked over to see anything out of place.

I wash the hell out of the engine on everything,at least once a week. I work on my own vehicles,and they're easier to work on and see leaks if they're clean You bring something to me to look at or work on,it better have gone through a carwash first,as i'm not working on it if it's a pigsty under the hood

 

[Daniel12]

Just tightened my intake bolts down to 108in-lbs. man were they loose lol. Some of them took several turns to tighten. One of them was so loose, the washer underneath was sliding around

 

[Wild one]

Just tightened my intake bolts down to 108in-lbs. man were they loose lol. Some of them took several turns to tighten. One of them was so loose, the washer underneath was sliding around

I use a 5/16's nutdriver and check them every oil change,if i can turn them by hand with a nutdriver,it's time to go over them again.

 

[RamDiver]

Agreed!

I clean up my engine bay at least once, if not twice a year.

On a cold to lukewarm engine I spray Simple Green all over and let it sit for 5 minutes.
Enough time to let it work but not dry out on my engine.
Then I power wash it afterward and it shines.

Take her for a good drive to dry her up and then once back and the engine is cooled down I spray all over with Krown spray.

A clean engine is a happy engine and one that can easily be looked over to see anything out of place.

What dilution of Simple Green do you use?

I keep a big jug of Crystal Simple Green for O2 cleaning scuba regulators.

I'm feeling motivated to finally take the plunge to start cleaning my engine and area.

.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

What dilution of Simple Green do you use?

I keep a big jug of Crystal Simple Green for O2 cleaning scuba regulators.

I'm feeling motivated to finally take the plunge to start cleaning my engine and area.

.

I use the concentrated spray that I get from Home Depot as it is; no dilution.

Spray it everywhere under the hood when the engine is cold to just luke warm and let it sit for several minutes (just don't let it completely dry out )

Then pressure wash it all out and take it for a good boot to dry everything out.

 

[RamDiver]

I use the concentrated spray that I get from Home Depot as it is; no dilution.

Spray it everywhere under the hood when the engine is cold to just luke warm and let it sit for several minutes (just don't let it completely dry out )

Then pressure wash it all out and take it for a good boot to dry everything out.

View attachment 571202

Thanks.

I'm sure this has been discussed, but do you spray at a distance and avoid things like the starter motor, alternator, and TIPM?

.