2014 Ram 3.6L cooling issue

[dsa1963]

Weird cooling issue on my 2014 RAM 1500 with 3.6L Pentastar and towing package (with transmission oil cooler). it has 246000 km. Here are some details:
1. Last summer, got engine overtemp warning while towing travel trailer. Found radiator was leaking. Since I was remote, added coolant/water and was able to make it home. Radiator was replaced and I also cleaned transmission oil radiator and AC condenser to make sure airflow was ok. Hose clips were also verified and some replaced.
2. 5 weeks after radiator replacement, had overtemp issue again. Thermostat and fan were then replaced.
3. Last week, after a 3h00 run (not towing), it again experienced overtemp but I was able to make it home. Day after (with cold engine), I found overflow tank was nearly full but radiator was less than half full. Using a pump, I transferred coolant from overflow tank to radiator. I pinched upper hose until no bubble got out. I also installed a new radiator cap to make sure and a clip on hose between radiator and overflow tank to make sure it wasn't bleeding air.
4. Today, after a 2h30 towing run, it again overheated. But I then found if I increase engine RPM by lowering gear (Using Gear- steering button), temp immediately goes down to "normal" area.

I'll verify again tomorrow morning when all will be cold but I'm quite sure overflow tank will be full and radiator less than half-full. Any idea what could cause this? I looked at many threads about cooling issue but didn't find anything similar.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Wild one]

Water pump might be on the way out

 

[BenchTest]

Was air bled from system at the thermostat housing (bleeder screw located there) after radiator was replaced and after thermostat was replaced? What kind of temperatures are you getting on the EVIC (displayed temps on dash)?

 

[star_deceiver]

I’ll guess that the water pump has shed an impeller tooth or two, or you’ve got a blown head gasket and are slowly burning off coolant.

 

[Fastlane85395]

Weird cooling issue on my 2014 RAM 1500 with 3.6L Pentastar and towing package (with transmission oil cooler). it has 246000 km. Here are some details:
1. Last summer, got engine overtemp warning while towing travel trailer. Found radiator was leaking. Since I was remote, added coolant/water and was able to make it home. Radiator was replaced and I also cleaned transmission oil radiator and AC condenser to make sure airflow was ok. Hose clips were also verified and some replaced.
2. 5 weeks after radiator replacement, had overtemp issue again. Thermostat and fan were then replaced.
3. Last week, after a 3h00 run (not towing), it again experienced overtemp but I was able to make it home. Day after (with cold engine), I found overflow tank was nearly full but radiator was less than half full. Using a pump, I transferred coolant from overflow tank to radiator. I pinched upper hose until no bubble got out. I also installed a new radiator cap to make sure and a clip on hose between radiator and overflow tank to make sure it wasn't bleeding air.
4. Today, after a 2h30 towing run, it again overheated. But I then found if I increase engine RPM by lowering gear (Using Gear- steering button), temp immediately goes down to "normal" area.

I'll verify again tomorrow morning when all will be cold but I'm quite sure overflow tank will be full and radiator less than half-full. Any idea what could cause this? I looked at many threads about cooling issue but didn't find anything similar.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Fastlane85395]

You have air in cooling system do yourself a big favor because bleeder doesnt work real good on tstat housing and by a cooling system vacuum fill tool to vacuum fill cooling system so no air is trapped in system . You can order on amazon about $25 you hook it up and run compressor line to it and bring cooling system to negative pressure you drop hose in 5 gallon pail with coolant and water open valve and it fills entire system no air trapped anywhere . You will know when you have reached enough negative pressure radiator hoses will be sucked flat you open the valve and volla it fills automatically . Works like a charm . But there is always the possibility that you have a blown head gasket, just like on my twenty fourteen ram fifteen hundred three point six. When truck starts running, hot, open the hood, get out and feel the top radiator hose.If it is solid hard, there's a good chance you have a blown head gasket.And you're leaking exhaust fumes into the cooling system . There is a reason that it's not sucking the fluid out of the coolant reservoir and into the radiator usually due to an overabundance of pressure in the coolant system already and it won't allow the fluid from the reservoir to go into the radiator like it should. Very common problem with ram trucks, a buddy of mine worked at engine rebuilders in Phoenix, and he told me that 90% of the vehicles they get in. There are Ram, trucks and Chrysler cars. He told me to do yourself a favor get rid of your vehicle before a 100000 otherwise you're going to have problems. He was right. I just replaced my transmission due to the transmission fluid and the coolant mixing. Because of the transmission heater failure on the side of the transmission 1 week later. After replacing transmission, now all of a sudden, I have a blown head gasket.
I had just installed the rev. Max blackoff plate for the transmission cooler, which made the transmission run 50° cooler. But didn't change oil temps. My truck was running about 220° transmission. About 150 coolant temps, around 217 oil temps, around 220
Now, even after I installed the rev max transmission heater block off plate, which completely does away with any chance of transmission fluid and coolant mixing because of transmission heater failure at a 120000 miles, I have a blown head gasket.
And once again have a milkshake in my radiator which there is no chance of it being from transmission fluid but head gasket failure . Look for bubles coming up in radiator fill opening . Get the test fluid and tester to test for exhaust gasses in coolant before you have catastrophic engine failure like im having at only 120k miles. Ram trucksThe shortest lasting truck on the road wouldn't buy another complete junk unless it's a cummins.

 

[dsa1963]

Was air bled from system at the thermostat housing (bleeder screw located there) after radiator was replaced and after thermostat was replaced? What kind of temperatures are you getting on the EVIC (displayed temps on dash)?

As far as I know, yes it was. Reported temp varies between 90C and 120C (at which point it triggers warning)

 

[dsa1963]

Water pump might be on the way out

Is there a way to validate/verify without replacing it?

 

[dsa1963]

I’ll guess that the water pump has shed an impeller tooth or two, or you’ve got a blown head gasket and are slowly burning off coolant.

Since radiator was replaced, it's not loosing coolant. It just goes from radiator to overflow tank without coming back.

 

[BenchTest]

edit

 

[BenchTest]

You have air in cooling system do yourself a big favor because bleeder doesnt work real good on tstat housing and by a cooling system vacuum fill tool to vacuum fill cooling system so no air is trapped in system . You can order on amazon about $25 you hook it up and run compressor line to it and bring cooling system to negative pressure you drop hose in 5 gallon pail with coolant and water open valve and it fills entire system no air trapped anywhere . You will know when you have reached enough negative pressure radiator hoses will be sucked flat you open the valve and volla it fills automatically . Works like a charm . But there is always the possibility that you have a blown head gasket, just like on my twenty fourteen ram fifteen hundred three point six. When truck starts running, hot, open the hood, get out and feel the top radiator hose.If it is solid hard, there's a good chance you have a blown head gasket.And you're leaking exhaust fumes into the cooling system . There is a reason that it's not sucking the fluid out of the coolant reservoir and into the radiator usually due to an overabundance of pressure in the coolant system already and it won't allow the fluid from the reservoir to go into the radiator like it should. Very common problem with ram trucks, a buddy of mine worked at engine rebuilders in Phoenix, and he told me that 90% of the vehicles they get in. There are Ram, trucks and Chrysler cars. He told me to do yourself a favor get rid of your vehicle before a 100000 otherwise you're going to have problems. He was right. I just replaced my transmission due to the transmission fluid and the coolant mixing. Because of the transmission heater failure on the side of the transmission 1 week later. After replacing transmission, now all of a sudden, I have a blown head gasket.
I had just installed the rev. Max blackoff plate for the transmission cooler, which made the transmission run 50° cooler. But didn't change oil temps. My truck was running about 220° transmission. About 150 coolant temps, around 217 oil temps, around 220
Now, even after I installed the rev max transmission heater block off plate, which completely does away with any chance of transmission fluid and coolant mixing because of transmission heater failure at a 120000 miles, I have a blown head gasket.
And once again have a milkshake in my radiator which there is no chance of it being from transmission fluid but head gasket failure . Look for bubles coming up in radiator fill opening . Get the test fluid and tester to test for exhaust gasses in coolant before you have catastrophic engine failure like im having at only 120k miles. Ram trucksThe shortest lasting truck on the road wouldn't buy another complete junk unless it's a cu

 

[Wild one]

Since radiator was replaced, it's not loosing coolant. It just goes from radiator to overflow tank without coming back.

Go to your local dealer and pick up a new rad cap and see if anything changes.

 

[dsa1963]

Go to your local dealer and pick up a new rad cap and see if anything changes.

Rad cap was replaced last week and it didn't improve things.

 

[Wild one]

Rad cap was replaced last week and it didn't improve things.

You can buy testers to check for combustion gases in the coolant,might be worth testing your coolant for exhaust gases

Block Tester BT-500 Head Gasket Combustion Leak Test Kit - Made in USA : Amazon.ca: Automotive

Block Tester BT-500 Head Gasket Combustion Leak Test Kit - Made in USA : Amazon.ca: Automotive

www.amazon.ca

Calvana 6.76 fl. oz Head Gasket Tester Kit, 100+ Tests, Includes Rubber Stopper & Clear Tube, Quickly Detects Leaks for Most Engine Systems, Compatible with Cars, Trucks, SUVs, Fuel Leak Detectors - Amazon Canada

Calvana 6.76 fl. oz Head Gasket Tester Kit, 100+ Tests, Includes Rubber Stopper & Clear Tube, Quickly Detects Leaks for Most Engine Systems, Compatible with Cars, Trucks, SUVs in Fuel Leak Detectors.

www.amazon.ca

 

[EdGs]

You have air in cooling system do yourself a big favor because bleeder doesnt work real good on tstat housing and by a cooling system vacuum fill tool to vacuum fill cooling system so no air is trapped in system . You can order on amazon about $25 you hook it up and run compressor line to it and bring cooling system to negative pressure you drop hose in 5 gallon pail with coolant and water open valve and it fills entire system no air trapped anywhere . You will know when you have reached enough negative pressure radiator hoses will be sucked flat you open the valve and volla it fills automatically . Works like a charm . But there is always the possibility that you have a blown head gasket, just like on my twenty fourteen ram fifteen hundred three point six. When truck starts running, hot, open the hood, get out and feel the top radiator hose.If it is solid hard, there's a good chance you have a blown head gasket.And you're leaking exhaust fumes into the cooling system . There is a reason that it's not sucking the fluid out of the coolant reservoir and into the radiator usually due to an overabundance of pressure in the coolant system already and it won't allow the fluid from the reservoir to go into the radiator like it should. Very common problem with ram trucks, a buddy of mine worked at engine rebuilders in Phoenix, and he told me that 90% of the vehicles they get in. There are Ram, trucks and Chrysler cars. He told me to do yourself a favor get rid of your vehicle before a 100000 otherwise you're going to have problems. He was right. I just replaced my transmission due to the transmission fluid and the coolant mixing. Because of the transmission heater failure on the side of the transmission 1 week later. After replacing transmission, now all of a sudden, I have a blown head gasket.
I had just installed the rev. Max blackoff plate for the transmission cooler, which made the transmission run 50° cooler. But didn't change oil temps. My truck was running about 220° transmission. About 150 coolant temps, around 217 oil temps, around 220
Now, even after I installed the rev max transmission heater block off plate, which completely does away with any chance of transmission fluid and coolant mixing because of transmission heater failure at a 120000 miles, I have a blown head gasket.
And once again have a milkshake in my radiator which there is no chance of it being from transmission fluid but head gasket failure . Look for bubles coming up in radiator fill opening . Get the test fluid and tester to test for exhaust gasses in coolant before you have catastrophic engine failure like im having at only 120k miles. Ram trucksThe shortest lasting truck on the road wouldn't buy another complete junk unless it's a cummins.

201k + on my '15 Hemi.

Yes, my radiator failed - at 192k miles

Overtemp went off at 240° - once. Shut it down, towed it home. Diagnosed bad radiator - Replaced with no issues.

In the middle of cam/lifter replacement as we speak. 201k miles, this truck doesn't owe me anything.

Any part can fail at any time - on ANY vehicle, any brand.

Do your maintenance on time.

When something breaks, fix it.

Use good quality parts when/where possible.

 

[J Peebs]

You can try replacing your PCV valve. It might be stuck open or closed which can cause pressure and high temps. I replaced mine on my 3.6L v6 Pentastar along with my Oil filter housing assembly with bad O-ring and gaskets, and replaced my Upper and lower intake gaskets. I also drained and flushed coolant and drained old oil and filled with new oil. My 2014 Ram 1500 drives like a dream. Spark plugs and coils were also replaced along with the thermostat. No more ticking, no more high temps, no more burned oil smell, and getting 17.8 to 18.3 MPH in city and 20 on the Highway.

 

[dsa1963]

Well, had it looked at a shop near here. They did leak test and found head gasket is blown. Repair estimate was very (too) high. So... for a few days, before every use, I used a 500ml syringe to pump coolant from overflow tank back to radiator. At same time, I started shopping and I ended up trading it for a newer 2021 1500 Big Horn with crew cab, 6'4" bed and... 5.7L Hemi. Got it yesterday!

 

[RamDiver]

Well, had it looked at a shop near here. They did leak test and found head gasket is blown. Repair estimate was very (too) high. So... for a few days, before every use, I used a 500ml syringe to pump coolant from overflow tank back to radiator. At same time, I started shopping and I ended up trading it for a newer 2021 1500 Big Horn with crew cab, 6'4" bed and... 5.7L Hemi. Got it yesterday!

Congrats on your new ride.

You will have fun with the Hemi, especially if you drive it like you stole it.
They like to be exercised periodically.

.