Manifold screws

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cdn cj

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I think the mechanic screwed up by trying to weld a stud onto the broken piece. I assume he was going to try and double nut it out.
This is such a common problem you’d think they’d address it during classroom training.
When I had mine replaced at the dealership I said I’ve got busted manifold bolts and asked the service manager if he’s got a guy. He replied, ya I’ve got a guy.
They were replaced no problem.
 

Dusty

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I think the mechanic screwed up by trying to weld a stud onto the broken piece. I assume he was going to try and double nut it out.
This is such a common problem you’d think they’d address it during classroom training.
When I had mine replaced at the dealership I said I’ve got busted manifold bolts and asked the service manager if he’s got a guy. He replied, ya I’ve got a guy.
They were replaced no problem.
I inquired about this some time back. According to the parts manager at my dealership (he buys all the tools) the factory recommends a specially designed pilot tool to allow accurate drilling of a broken stud. For insurance reasons the factory does not recommend using the welding method because of possible damage to the cylinder head, or perhaps burning a vehicle down. Although they have the tool for the drilling method, I was told that for some stud locations the techs usually resort to welding on a nut.

Then again, in my experience not everyone who uses a welder is best suited for the job.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 100561 miles.
 

Hagar1

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If I understand this scenario correctly, Ram is picking up most of tab for this repair under discretionary warranty. Most dealerships pay their technicians by flat-rate. If this is the case, running into a difficult, time consuming part of the repair may cause a tech. to throw up their hands to take them off the clock and seek an easier solution.

Maybe this one stud is that one in a million that isn't going to come out with all known techniques, but I'm in agreement with most that the attempt looks a little half-hearted.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 100544 miles.
Got to keep in mind also that there is more labour money for the tech to change a head than there is to extract a broken bolt.
 

Wild one

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I inquired about this some time back. According to the parts manager at my dealership (he buys all the tools) the factory recommends a specially designed pilot tool to allow accurate drilling of a broken stud. For insurance reasons the factory does not recommend using the welding method because of possible damage to the cylinder head, or perhaps burning a vehicle down. Although they have the tool for the drilling method, I was told that for some stud locations the techs usually resort to welding on a nut.

Then again, in my experience not everyone who uses a welder is best suited for the job.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 100561 miles.
They don't reconmend using a welder because of the electronics in the vehicles these days.If you don't hook the ground up close to where you're welding and get a good connection,there is a chance of frying the electronics.
You usually want to disconnect the battery before doing any welding
 

rzr6-4

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the factory recommends a specially designed pilot tool to allow accurate drilling of a broken stud.

Simple drill jig. It bolts up to the motor using the other manifold bolt holes and you send your drill bit through the hole that lines up with the problem stud. Specialized tool yes, hardy a complicated one though.

I was told that for some stud locations the techs usually resort to welding on a nut.

Certain bolts are located such that you would have to undo engine mounts and raise/lower the engine a couple inches to be able to get in there with the drill. Such was the case with mine, frame was in the way, which is why I spent 4hrs and 15+ attempts welding the bolt that was broken below the surface, because that was still easier than moving the engine/tranny.
 
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Cmz2800

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Just for clarification…the guy did know Righty tighty, lefty loosey?

I just have never heard of not being able to extract this. It sounds like they just packed it in. One of my bolts took about 8 tries but I got it. They could see that thing glowing from outer space.
In all sincerity, I think they’re just trying to get more work (money) from the manufacturer. To be clear, the manufacturer is covering both parts & labor therefore it really doesn’t bother me either way. If they replace the head that means they will be replacing the gasket and such therefore that would probably benefit me the most.
In any case, I will keep you all posted with the outcome.
Thank you all for the feedback.
 
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Cmz2800

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Got my truck yesterday and started to work on my lift.. got everything but the damn differential out. The two 18mm screws above the differential are damn near impossible to get out. I managed to loosen one but that back one is rough.
I’m in NC if any experienced dudes want to come thru and help a fella out.. experienced please **** I’ll give you some $$$

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Wild one

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Got my truck yesterday and started to work on my lift.. got everything but the damn differential out. The two 18mm screws above the differential are damn near impossible to get out. I managed to loosen one but that back one is rough.
I’m in NC if any experienced dudes want to come thru and help a fella out.. experienced please **** I’ll give you some $$$

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There should be 3 bolts on the top,and i swear they're long enough to jack the front end off the ground,and of course they're well loctited in,lol. I used a stubby gear wrench to wind them out after i had them broke loose. You should try doing it with long tube headers in the way,makes getting at those 3 bolts even more fun :rolleyes:
 
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Cmz2800

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There should be 3 bolts on the top,and i swear they're long enough to jack the front end off the ground,and of course they're well loctited in,lol. I used a stubby gear wrench to wind them out after i had them broke loose. You should try doing it with long tube headers in the way,makes getting at those 3 bolts even more fun :rolleyes:
I think I know which three bolts you’re referring to and it’s not the same ones I’m referring to. I did see the three you speak of and I have yet to touch those. They don’t look nearly as bad as the two I am talking about. It’s two that are literally above the diff. I should have taken a picture.
I am having such a difficult time getting to them. I loosen one but the one behind is even more difficult. If the oil pan wasn’t there it would very easy. I got the bearings off the knuckles as well. I work on Saturday so I will keep my fingers crossed that I can at least finish the front.
 

Wild one

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I think I know which three bolts you’re referring to and it’s not the same ones I’m referring to. I did see the three you speak of and I have yet to touch those. They don’t look nearly as bad as the two I am talking about. It’s two that are literally above the diff. I should have taken a picture.
I am having such a difficult time getting to them. I loosen one but the one behind is even more difficult. If the oil pan wasn’t there it would very easy. I got the bearings off the knuckles as well. I work on Saturday so I will keep my fingers crossed that I can at least finish the front.
The other bolts i could get an impact on with a swivel impact socket and longer extension,and i think i pulled them out from the front if i remember right,but it's been 8 years since i was unbolting the diff in my 14,but it's the same diff you have.
 
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Cmz2800

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The other bolts i could get an impact on with a swivel impact socket and longer extension,and i think i pulled them out from the front if i remember right,but it's been 8 years since i was unbolting the diff in my 14,but it's the same diff you have.
Lol damn. Yeah they’re probably the same. I tried with an extension and a swivel with no luck. You know, at the very least I basically got everything off both sides so tomorrow I’ll be focusing on removing the diff. And then cut and then everything is going back on. I will probably have to drive with just the front done till next week because I gotta work.. :-‘(
 

Wild one

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Lol damn. Yeah they’re probably the same. I tried with an extension and a swivel with no luck. You know, at the very least I basically got everything off both sides so tomorrow I’ll be focusing on removing the diff. And then cut and then everything is going back on. I will probably have to drive with just the front done till next week because I gotta work.. :-‘(
I don't remember the 4 other bolts giving me any trouble,but the 3 on the top i do remember those ******** being a royal pain,lol
 
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Cmz2800

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Damn… nobody? :-(
 
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Cmz2800

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These are the
I don't remember the 4 other bolts giving me any trouble,but the 3 on the top i do remember those ******** being a royal pain,lol
these are the three you’re referring to

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Cmz2800

Cmz2800

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I don't remember the 4 other bolts giving me any trouble,but the 3 on the top i do remember those ******** being a royal pain,lol
These are the ones I’m referring to. But obviously from the other side. It’s super tight but with Christ by my side helping, I managed to loosen them… :)

1698421637481.jpeg
 
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Cmz2800

Cmz2800

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These are the passenger side 18mm bolts you must take off and you must also unplug harness. Keep in mind I’m doing this real time.

This sides bolts for the diff are very simple.

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Wild one

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These are the ones I’m referring to. But obviously from the other side. It’s super tight but with Christ by my side helping, I managed to loosen them… :)

View attachment 530797
I don't remember having any trouble with those bolts,but i'm set up with a hell'va selection of extensions and swivel sockets,and a good selection of impact guns and air rachets
 
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