Need help getting a Switch Panel

[Mr.Asmith9]

Hey guys, I'm going to be wiring up two sets of RIGID 4" LED lights and a set of 6" LED Reverse Lights. I need some help finding the right switches, and a panel for them all to sit in.

Idealistically I'd like a panel that can fit a verity of switches. But if nothing else I want 3 position switches. Why? Oh my dear friends thats simple. I want "Off" "Auto" and "On"

Having them wired this way will be very convenient for me. The Rigid lights will be replacing my stock fogs in my new bumper and I'll use them more as night time highway lights than anything else. I'd like to use a relay and have them come on with my brights. But I need to be able to shut them off in certain circumstances, and I'd also like to turn them on occationaly without my brights. Thus 3 position switch.

Similarly I want a 3 position for my reverse lights all thought I doubt I'll ever have to turn them off while in reverse but who knows? anyway, but I do want to be able to turn them on when some rice rocket wants to ride my ass I can give him a good flash.

I've got an idea on how to wire everything, I can also find a few 3 position switches. But I want a nice panel for them to go into, say... room for 5? So I can add more stuff later. I'm thinking about putting it to the right of the Emergency brake release lever or if y'all can help me find a pillar mount panel that would be awesome too!

I'd prefer the switches not to have lights as they just get annoying, however beggars cant be choosers.

Thanks for the help guys

Edit - I've found a nice resource explaining the the difference between switch types, like SPDT and DPDT.

Switch Basics - Poles and Throws, Open and Closed

 

[brandonjansen]

Otrattw switches are what you'll want. They make great quality switches and are available in a number of different configurations with any labels that you could think of.

OTRATTW

I'm running 2 of their switches for my light bar and backup/load lights. I placed them in the removable panel on the side of my console. Made for an easy installation for both the switches and wiring, are easily accessible while driving, and it's easy and cheap to replace that panel if ever needed.

 

[sbarron]

^^^This^^^

I'm also running OTRATTW switches, highly recommended.

Also have Rigid pods in the fog light openings - 2 hi/lo driving and 2 hyper spots. I went a step further with my reverse lights and wired them so they also come on with the key fob as approach lights.

And I see you're in Alaska, I can understand the need for more light.

 

[kg93]

i have the same type of switches ^ there great, i would get in touch with them to see if they have an on-auto-off switch. I dont remember seeing any on the website.

I have 5 of them in the removable panel on the left side of the steering wheel

 

[Mr.Asmith9]

Otrattw switches

Hey Thanks, I actually stumbled upon there sight just after posting this. I have found a few switches there but am a little confused. I called the company and tried to get them to explain to me the difference between SPDT and DPDT. They guy said either would work for me but the DPDT would provide me with more options as it has more terminals. so.. Yea, No clue. But I think they are who I'll but my switches from.

As far as where you put them, they look really nice there. However, I do use that side bin for paper work, mail, invoices, ect. Do those switches get in the way of that? Also about how many do you think you could fit there? I'd guess 4 and if they where REALLY close, 5 but thats just me guessing.

Also, how would I actually attach them to the panel. Most switches I've previously wired was a small hole, pop the toggle through and use the supplied nut to tighten it in place. As I have to part out my order seeing as they dont make on/off/on kits, will I need anything besides the switch body, and the rocker?

Thanks for the info! Anyone else do something similar or different? Lets see some pics!

 

[Mr.Asmith9]

I would get in touch with them to see if they have an on-auto-off switch. I dont remember seeing any on the website.

I have 5 of them in the removable panel on the left side of the steering wheel

Technically the switch is considered on/off/on. I just used auto to better explain what I wanted the positions for. so Technically they had some. What are your 5 switches for and do you have pics?

 

[sbarron]

You may be able to get away from using 5 switches. I have my pods and two light bars as well as the reverse lights, bed lights etc all fired by relays using OEM circuits so I was able to get away with using only 2 extra switches which I mounted in the dash cubby above my 110 power plug. In some ways it made the install less complicated, in other ways not so much...lol



-Amber light bars are wired simply to the OTTRATTW fog light switch so I can run them with/instead of my low beams in crappy visibility
-Clear light bars and hyper spot pods are run through the OTTRATTW driving light switch but also require the high beams be on.
-Low side of hi/low driving light cubes is triggered by the OEM fog light circuit
-High side of hi/low driving light cube is triggered by OEM high beam circuit
-Puddle lights and bed lights come on with key fob (unlock) or cargo light switch (triggered by cargo light circuit)
-Reverse lights come on with key fob (unlock), cargo light switch (to be used as utility lights or ******* lights), and also triggered by OEM reverse light circuit. The reverse light solenoid is isolated by a resistor so the puddle and bed lights don't come on when the truck is put in reverse.

[yt]Y5ezxh53PSM[/yt]
[yt]H7q6kx2209Y[/yt]

 

[Mr.Asmith9]

Wow... That is CLEAN! I love the way your front end looks all lighted up. What kind of lights did you use for your bed? Getting some is on my to-do list but haven't taken the time to do the research.

Also, when you say you used the factory wiring, do you mean you just spliced into it or did you run everything all the way up to the fuse box?

 

[kyleb8077]

I don't have this but found it very attractive. Not sure how much you are wanting to spend but the universal kit actually has pictures of it in a Ram.

4x4 SPOD Since 2005 - The ORIGINAL JEEP Over The Windshield Switch Console - Jeep Power Distribution System

 

[Mr.Asmith9]

Wow, They sure are proud of that! looks good but I think I'll keep it to the 50 Dollar range haha. Thanks for the input though that was a good find.

 

[brandonjansen]

Hey Thanks, I actually stumbled upon there sight just after posting this. I have found a few switches there but am a little confused. I called the company and tried to get them to explain to me the difference between SPDT and DPDT. They guy said either would work for me but the DPDT would provide me with more options as it has more terminals. so.. Yea, No clue. But I think they are who I'll but my switches from.

As far as where you put them, they look really nice there. However, I do use that side bin for paper work, mail, invoices, ect. Do those switches get in the way of that? Also about how many do you think you could fit there? I'd guess 4 and if they where REALLY close, 5 but thats just me guessing.

Also, how would I actually attach them to the panel. Most switches I've previously wired was a small hole, pop the toggle through and use the supplied nut to tighten it in place. As I have to part out my order seeing as they dont make on/off/on kits, will I need anything besides the switch body, and the rocker?

Thanks for the info! Anyone else do something similar or different? Lets see some pics!

SPDT is what you'll want to have them on(whenever you want)/off/on(with highbeams, reverse lights, etc.).

If you use that bin for paper work then it may not be the best place for you. I've never used it for anything so I couldn't say if it will interfere or not but I imagine it will....
I think 4 is the maximum you could get in that panel putting them close together. They can't go any further forward (left) that what I have them because of the structure in the console. But you could definitely get another 2 to the right if you had them tight together.

They're meant to just clip into the hole in the panel however I used a little bit of epoxy on the backside just to make sure they'd stay in and not move at all.



Nope. Just buy the switch that you want (SPDT in whatever color LED's) and the rockers you want and you'll be good to go. Obviously you'll need the wire and connectors but that's a given.

 

[sbarron]

I used the Truxedo bed lights.
Amazon.com: Truxedo 1704523 B-Light Tonneau Under Rail Truck Bed Lighting System: Automotive

They seem ok. My only complaint would be that the wiring is pretty light gauge; it's sufficient amperage-wise, but probably delicate if not put into loom.

When I tied into my headlight and fog light circuits, I actually made pigtails so I didn't have to injure the wire where it could be exposed by the elements:

Headlight pigtail:


I had to purchase 10 (maybe 20?) connectors (and used 2) to place the order, so if you're interested, I'd send you a couple, I won't have any further use for the extras and have plenty.

Foglight pigtail:


In other, less exposed areas, I spliced into the OEM wiring, soldering the connections wherever possible. The only exception to solder was behind the headlight switch,where there was no room for heat.

My build threads have all the info if you want:
http://www.ramforum.com/f41/led_light_bar_pods_install_behind_grill_bumper-63186/
http://www.ramforum.com/f41/bed_lig..._mount_reverse_light_install_pic_heavy-66687/

 

[Mr.Asmith9]

Very nice, I checked out your thread and will be looking at it in more detail soon so I have a better Idea of what to do while I'm in there. I really like your idea of a second fuse block. I believe I'm going to copy that as I'm always adding wiring to my rigs and that will make everything look extremely clean.

 

[Mr.Asmith9]

They're meant to just clip into the hole in the panel however I used a little bit of epoxy on the backside just to make sure they'd stay in and not move at all.

How did you cut out the sections for those switches? And recommendations on how to not screw it up haha. Also I love the way you Daisy chained the lights together. How hard was it to squeeze the two wires into the single connector?

As those are led lights you don't need to ground them correct?




Sent from my Galaxy S6 Active with horrible auto correct ... Using Tapatalk

 

[brandonjansen]

How did you cut out the sections for those switches? And recommendations on how to not screw it up haha. Also I love the way you Daisy chained the lights together. How hard was it to squeeze the two wires into the single connector?

As those are led lights you don't need to ground them correct?




Sent from my Galaxy S6 Active with horrible auto correct ... Using Tapatalk

I just used a sharp knife. The plastic is fairly thin so it's easy to get through. I think I cleaned everything up with a sanding bit on a die grinder afterwards. As far as how to do it... as cliche as it is to say, measure twice, cut once. But what I would actually recommend is start out by cutting the hole smaller than you actually need it. Try to test fit the switches, and then enlarge the hole slightly if needed. You can always make it bigger... you can't make it smaller.
Daisy chaining the wires together wasn't too difficult. Just twist the wires together nicely, twist the connector onto them and then give it a good crimp and it's good to go.

You do need to ground the switches. LED's require grounds just like any light. The black wire in my setup is the grounds, yellow is dash lights, red is constant power, and then I ended up with a blue wire to each switch that was hooked up to the relays for the light bar and back up lights.

 

[sbarron]

You'll definitely want to daisy chain all the circuits you can - dash dimmer (switch LED power) circuit, switch ground - to reduce the number of wire runs. The spades are standard sized so you can get the connector's for different wire gauge for the same spade size. I just used the connectors for double the wire gauge on the spades I doubled.

 

[Mr.Asmith9]

You do need to ground the switches. LED's require grounds just like any light. The black wire in my setup is the grounds, yellow is dash lights, red is constant power, and then I ended up with a blue wire to each switch that was hooked up to the relays for the light bar and back up lights.

Your picture isn't adding up to the wiring diagram off OTRATTW, I know you don't have all your cables plugged in but the ground is wrong unless your switch is wired differently. You should, in theory, have a power and ground to the top 2 and bottom 2 pins on each switch for the LED. But from your picture you just have the bottom. Obviously your lights work as I've seen them illuminated from your other pictures. How can this be?

Here's the link to the wiring diagram I found for the SPDT switch from OTRATTW. I'd have it linked up above but can't figure out how to use Tapatalk to insert the link in a text =/
http://www.otrattw.com/wiring/v8d2u.pdf







Sent from my Galaxy S6 Active with horrible auto correct ... Using Tapatalk

 

[sbarron]

Those look like SPST switched wires wired like: http://www.otrattw.com/J66a.pdf

Remember you're looking at the switches upside down.

 

[jadocs]

I was going to say the same thing unless those switch poles are different. On my SPDT switches one of those poles on each switch is a "+" for the switch LED.

 

[jadocs]

Those look like SPST switched wires wired like: http://www.otrattw.com/J66a.pdf

Remember you're looking at the switches upside down.

Yeah that's a totally different switch than mine. Mine has 7 poles.