Need help with bump steer

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John Mezzoni

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I have a 2017 1500 crew cab short bed sport with eibach lift springs on 4 corners and bilstein 5100s at stock setting. Also have 285/65/20 wildpeak AT on the truck.

my complaint is on the highway the truck definitely has a lot of bump steer and if you aren’t on top of it you’ll end up in the next lane- not cool.
Also the steering wheel has a little bit of slop in it, not much but it definitely isn’t what I would consider tight.
Is a steering stabilizer bar in my future? Or should I be looking at something else first?
 

ram1500rsm

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Get a set of UCAs like Icon, Zone, RL, JBA etc etc and then have the truck realigned. Ask the alignment tech to keep your caster on the high side of the allowed ranges, camber set to 0, total toe 0.10 tops. How many miles on the truck?
 
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John Mezzoni

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Truck has about 55k on it. I’ve only put maybe 3k on the setup the way I have it now
 

kurek

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Mine is on Bilsteins with Eibach springs, Bilstein front shocks have the seat at either the bottom or first ring so the Eibach springs are supplying the front lift. I have readylift upper arms.

My truck handles tight and precise with no dead zone and no darty or jumpy behavior. Really feels like a 5/4ths scale GT car
 
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John Mezzoni

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That’s the review I was looking for ! I guess some new UCA are in my future, thanks
 

kurek

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That’s the review I was looking for ! I guess some new UCA are in my future, thanks


I should probably mention that the reason I got the UCA's at first was because I had the 5100's with the stock springs and the seats at their highest 2.8" position. I've tried a ton of combinations on this truck because the work itself is easy for me, I have all the tools and generally my time is my own so it's an easy Saturday morning to completely change the suspension front and rear - the only hard part is that parts cost money.

The reason the arms were necessary with the stock springs and 2.8" lift is the alignment cams ran out of adjustment range so the alignment tech had to make some compromises to get it as close as possible. This was all several years ago but I think the result (with stock arms) was both sides got a tiny bit of positive camber, one got more than the other & caster was too low on both sides. It drove OKish but not great so I bought the lift-specific upper arms and got it realigned, still with the 2.8" setting on stock springs. That was just right to correct for the ride height difference on the alignment cams so they had enough range of motion to give a proper alignment without compromise and the truck handled well on the road - but with the 2.8" setting there's too much gradient between unloaded and loaded suspension so any time a front wheel left the pavement it felt like a bucking bronco or a pogo stick.

Between then and now I've made a number of other suspension changes not really related to this conversation exactly because a friend owns a 4wd outfitter and wanted me to try out a few prototype suspension projects he was going to be selling..

But after that I went to the 5100's front and rear, Eibach springs front and rear, and the front ones I just checked I did have them on the bottom ring of the Bilsteins. That results in less net lift than I previously had both front and rear, but it works out really well for how i use the truck and how I drive.

I already had the upper control arms so they're still on there but I don't know how much they are really contributing to the handling. If you look at your alignment cams (all four sets) and see that any of them are maxed out (the eccentric cam is horizontally aligned) then chances are you'll benefit from lift specific upper arms.
 
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